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My 1996 SPI Resto

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Seadoo Tuner said:
Took the SPI on the lake again today, I had tightened all hose clamps and checked for engine air leaks by spraying WD40 (negative). Verified the pee holes by the hook were spraying water and took her out for a 5 minute ride and all seemed well - turned her off and restarted and then she stalls on acceleration. This happened a few times and then I turned the fuel selector to reserve and it no longer stalls. Rode for a bit and then tried the main tank again and she stalls. Back to the reserve setting and she's ok again. Engine was hot on head after 30 minutes but not super hot and checked compression and it was rock steady at the 145 both read cold as well so seems compression is good and engine has no air leak. Plugs were coffee brown. Drove her harder than last ride a few weeks back and she pulled strong. Was a fun satisfying ride!

So, why would she ride much better on reserve setting with half a tank of gas and stall on acceleration on regular tank setting?
Click to expand...
That just happened to me last night as I was running out of gas...on the regular setting, when I pulled left and up (over a swell) it wanted to die, but flat or on reserve no problems. How much gas did you have? If it was half a tank or more, I would agree that the fuel selector is probably clogged, that's not hard to remove and check. If it's not, then the clog would be between the pickup and switch, or in the fuel pickup itself (fuel flows pickup to switch to filter to engine, so if it runs on reserve only the pickup and switch can be the problem).
 
It could be clogged but more commonly the rubber part inside dries and shrinks up allowing air in. Then it's like trying to drink through a cracked straw.
 
I test all my fuel valves and sometimes I found the old valve to be better than the new ones regarding leakage. I repaired leaking fittings on brand new valves. The brass hose connections were not sealed properly and leaked. They were suppose to be OEM but I have my suspicions. I am looking for a good source for these. OEM isn't that much more expensive than aftermarket but the suppliers are awfully creative when it comes to obscuring the origin of the parts. They use words like "genuine" and "SeaDoo" in ways to cloud the fact the parts are not the quality we believe we are paying for. It is a shame but "Caveat Emptor."
 
I'm seeing a black plastic fuel selector valve (new type?) that is a replacement for the metal 275500098. Anyone used these and if so how's the quality?

I'm need one but reviews for what's available aren't good as many speak of defective new metal ones that need drilling to use.
 
I bought mine from osd parts. It is all metal. Previous one installed was plastic junk that broke while changing tempo lines. Ended up having to replace the knob too due to it not wanting to fit the all metal valve. Haven't had an issue since.
 
I'm getting ready to replace that blue crap on a ski I'm struggling with. Going with the black stuff that I like so much. :)
 
Getting rid of the old blue/green oil that previous owner had used- drained the tank, removed old filter and sucked out oil from filter line to pump and line beside it on the oil tank that goes in to engine under pump.
Do I need to pump out oil from line on other side of engine going to top of oil tank and what is this line for?
 
Purchased the plastic fuel selector valve from WSM performance after seeing how there's been issues with defective metal ones with air leaks and holes needing to be drilled out on some. Pic of the plastic one :
 

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Got the fuel selector installed, tested fine, nice to have one that turns smooth as butter and clicks into position rather than the old one that turned like it had molasses inside it making it so stiff.
 
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Drained the wrong blue/green oil out last week previous owner had put in, bled the pump, and refilled and primed with Mystik Synthetic blend red oil. Filled the tank with 94 octane and brought her to the lake for first test of the season Monday.

Starts fine, idles fine (seems a bit low though), but bogs and stalls in both on and rez positions on fuel selector. I can play with the throttle and when I hear the engine surge a bit I give her more throttle and she takes off like a banshee so it is rideable. Problem is, as long as I keep riding its fine but only as long as I don't bring her down to idling otherwise Its bogging again.

Rode it a few hours, taking it to the end of the lake and back once that was an hour straight ride but made sure not to let it go so slow where it would go back to idling and bogging. The racing intake grate seems to help out of the hole, she pulls very hard and my SPI 587 ran dead even with a 98 GTS 720 in a couple of races so was very happy with that.

I'm thinking needle is not seating properly and flooding when idling? I've read posts about bending the needle arm slightly (1mm) to get rid of the flooding and bogging so may try that first.
 
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Don't waste your time trying to bend the lever. Buy a new Mikuni needle, seat, and make sure you have the correct spring. That will solve your problems better and quicker than anything else. Your needle is worn and needs to be replaced. There is no fixing them.
 
My cousin told me what GTS stands for. :D Goes too Slow. :D :D I had a SPI with an aftermarket factory pipe, jetted carbs, and different prop. Pretty nice ski and topped out at 48mph. Stock skis run about 42.
 
etemplet said:
Don't waste your time trying to bend the lever. Buy a new Mikuni needle, seat, and make sure you have the correct spring. That will solve your problems better and quicker than anything else. Your needle is worn and needs to be replaced. There is no fixing them.
Click to expand...

Are the new needles all made with the "viton" rubber? The one in my carb has no rubber but the one's I'm looking at on JSP have the rubber needle on the one half:
seadoo needle pic.JPG

Also, do you know what size a 1996 SPI 587 uses?
 
I'm not a guru. :) there are guys on here that can better answer your questions. I'm a warrior. :) I'd go to OSD Marine for the parts. I personally buy from Bay Area Powersports but have used OSD often. You need to find someone that will sell you genuine Mikuni parts. If you look on the forum at the sticky posts you'll see what size you need. Mikidymac has a great carb rebuild thread.

This will answer your questions... hopefully
Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference
 
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Just watched a youtube video on carb rebuilding last night and saw them take out the low and high speed needles. Realized when I cleaned my carb last year, which was quite dirty, I never did this - could this be a reason for the bogging?
 
Seadoo Tuner said:
Just watched a youtube video on carb rebuilding last night and saw them take out the low and high speed needles. Realized when I cleaned my carb last year, which was quite dirty, I never did this - could this be a reason for the bogging?
Click to expand...
Yes, I take EVERYTHING apart. I polish the low and high with 0000 steel wool. Spray thru the ports. Then I use automatic trans fluid in a pump to flow thru all the ports. It gives you a visual confirmation that the port is indeed clear of obstructions.
 
racerxxx said:
Yes, I take EVERYTHING apart. I polish the low and high with 0000 steel wool. Spray thru the ports. Then I use automatic trans fluid in a pump to flow thru all the ports. It gives you a visual confirmation that the port is indeed clear of obstructions.
Click to expand...

Good info, especially like the trans fluid technique, thanks.
 
I don't quite get the transmission fluid test but it can be difficult sometimes to get the holes and passages clear and there is no way to positively check 100%. I'd like to see the pump rig.
 
To rule out the new fuel selector OR the fuel filter/water seperator o-ring being bad I am bypassing them and will test ride. Just to confirm, as I've seen conflicting info, is this correct :

- RES connects to carb inlet with inline filter.
- RET is left as is as its already connected from carb return line.
- ON is capped (so no air leak)
- VENT is left as is since it's already vented to the valve.

So basically only 2 things to do with carb inlet line moved from water seperator to RES, and capping off the nipple on the fuel baffle ON?
 

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