My 1996 SPI Resto

[Seadoo Tuner]

Starts and idles fine again without doing anything, think part of the issue was I neglected to turn off fuel selector valve for a few days and gas leaked thru so there is a slight leak apparently. Will change the needle and seat when parts come in but for now want to get it on the water to expel the excess oil in the crankcase from the seal seepage over the winter.

Putting the jet pump and driveshaft back together now - I have a new gasket for the pump housing, do I need to silicone the top as well or will the gasket be sufficient?

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

In addition to the Rubber bumpers at each end of driveshaft, is there supposed to be one in the PTO? When cleaning out old grease inside PTO I felt a rubber piece and pulled it out. its a different shape and size than the ones that fit on drive shaft ends. Here's a pic with the one from inside the PTO ositting on the envelope :

 

[mikidymac]

It just looks like an old deformed one. No, not one in the PTO, just one at each end of the driveshaft is all that should be there.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

When the driveshaft is aligned is there equal space on each side and top bottom of the hull tunnel the shaft goes thru or does this not matter?

 

[mikidymac]

It doesn't matter unless the driveshaft it close to hitting it.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

1) Is there supposed to be lock washers on the engine mount bolts? Mine just had regular washers and I torqued them to 26ft lbs as per the manual.

2) There's a small 1"crack on the hull about an inch over from the jet pump, whats best to repair it to prevent spreading?

 

[mikidymac]

The engine to mounts only get 18 fl/lbs, not 26. Also use blue thread lock and no lock washers, just the flat ones.

2. Either marinetex epoxy or grind it out and reglass with epoxy resin and glass cloth.

 

[racerxxx]

Post a pic of the crack please

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Here's a pic:

 

[racerxxx]

I wouldn't waste the time fixing that. Honestly probably just a crack the the gel coat from a prior pump removal job, zero structural issue. Or if your really nervous, white rtv, smear it in with your finger and call it a day. That could have happened 20 years ago. (I have not read the last 30 posts, if you did that)

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

I wouldn't waste the time fixing that. Honestly probably just a crack the the gel coat from a prior pump removal job, zero structural issue. Or if your really nervous, white rtv, smear it in with your finger and call it a day. That could have happened 20 years ago. (I have not read the last 30 posts, if you did that)

Good to hear, the crack was there from the previous owner.

Just took off the cone to change oil, am I missing something in the cone? Thought there was a metal piece supposed to be in it:

 

[mikidymac]

Nope that’s just the standard one from that vintage.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Picking up some Klondike 75w-90 synthetic gear oil today.
Not much old oil came out - how do you know if you have a worn bearing?

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Just came back from the lake, started and ran well for about 20 minutes. Then slowed down as I came into the beach area and when giving throttle would stall. Started fine over and over but whenever giving throttle would stall but Idles and putts around fine. Got home and started her up, revved no problem out of water. Not sure what this issue could be.

 

[etemplet]

Does it sound like it is lean when you try to rev it from idle ?? Did you roll it on slow to see what was going on ?? Sounds like you are close so Good on Ya !! A little tweakin should get R done.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Does it sound like it is lean when you try to rev it from idle ?? Did you roll it on slow to see what was going on ?? Sounds like you are close so Good on Ya !! A little tweakin should get R done.

It just stalls when revving from idle, whether it's a slight push or a quick one. Thing is it was running pretty smooth for 20 minutes before that but I never slowed to full idle during that time.

 

[etemplet]

Generally when my engines die on the application of throttle it isn't getting enough fuel. No sputtering just a clean unhealthy RPM drop to zero. Rich they sputter and hang out at that RPM a bit. You may be able to try pulling the choke out just a tad to see what happens.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Here is a pic of spark plugs, looks like running rich? :

 

[etemplet]

I can't see well enough. These are my plugs when I was having issues.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Will a sticking needle and seat be the reason for running lean?

 

[mikidymac]

Typically that causes it to flood and run rich.

 

[etemplet]

I have had such success in installing new Mikuni Needles and seats.... I would recommend that as clearing up problems with the carbs and setting the pop off above the midway point . I find the skis have much more crisp throttle response there rather than the low end. I fought 2 sets of carbs on the exact model skis for the first couple of months this year. The both ran exactly the same. I had Mikuni kits in both but didn't replace the needles and seats. I started at 23 psi pop off, went to 27, then to 33 while doing other checks. When I put the Mikuni needles and seats in along with the mikuni spring, pop off jumped to 38psi and the skis are very happy and responsive now. Good Luck !!

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Re the stalling after riding for 20 minutes, will any adjustments to the carb screws maybe help? Haven't touched them as it was running fine with previous owner.

 

[etemplet]

Carb adjustments would reveal themselves pretty quick as soon as the engine is warmed up. They shouldn't change at all. If you have a 20 minute problem it is either fuel supply or electrical.. I'm not what I would call a technician so I won't get into other issues that could cause this. I got a 20 minute issue with my SPX. I am wondering if it is getting hot or the temp sensor is bad. I replaced the coil because I had one. I'm taking my temperature gun out with me for the next ride but I just built the top end so there should be no cooling issues related to that. I did put on a used sensor so.... I guess I'll swap that out for the next ride as well.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

My engine did not seem overly hot after the 20 minutes, so fuel, like you mentioned, is what I'm leaning to. Electrical seems fine as the SPI will start no problem and idle fine without stalling after the 20. I may just run it again for 5 minutes and then check the spark plugs for lean condition - is the best way to do this to run at full throttle and pull the lanyard as I've seen others suggest or just cut the engine after coming in quickly to the dock?