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My 1996 SPI Resto

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I found an issue with a ski today by putting my spark plug checker on there and running the engine on the water. I thought it was running on a single cylinder but the spark to both cylinders cut out like very other stroke. It was the engine limiter reading a faulty temp sensor and going into the safe mode. It wasn't a SeaDoo ski though but I'm glad I found the problem.
 
Wat was it? The seadoo's don't cut anything when overheating, they only sound an alarm. The Yamaha's will actually cut spark though.
 
12V doesn’t always work for the beepers. I have found quite a few that will beep with 12V connected to them but the fast pulse the MPEM sends will not activate them. But it’s a good no go test since if 12v directly doesn’t work they are definitely doa.

$8 is a great price though as long as they last.
 
mikidymac said:
12V doesn’t always work for the beepers. I have found quite a few that will beep with 12V connected to them but the fast pulse the MPEM sends will not activate them. But it’s a good no go test since if 12v directly doesn’t work they are definitely doa.

$8 is a great price though as long as they last.
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Last year there was a lot of Radio Shack stock floating around because of the store closings, the 273-068 part number is very close to the stock buzzer, slight trimming to it and it fits. There's other buzzers out there close to the same size and specs that should work also. In my opinion, the OEM is way over priced, even at a used price.
 
My beepers don't work and I've checked them with 12 volts. Every now and then I get a surprise and I here 2 chirps when I insert the keys. If I ever get the skis working that well... I might fiddle with the non-essentials. :)
 
etemplet said:
My beepers don't work and I've checked them with 12 volts. Every now and then I get a surprise and I here 2 chirps when I insert the keys. If I ever get the skis working that well... I might fiddle with the non-essentials. :)
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LOL the "non-essentials" it's because you've got too many irons in the fire there Boudreaux, didn't you acquire like 5-6 skis in about a 1 year time frame? That has to be overwhelming, it took me an entire year and all my efforts just to get one on the water this Summer.
 
You can get the OEM ones from Floyd Bell and they will last another 20 years. They are only $21.46 but they charge $20 for shipping and handling no matter how many you buy. I typically buy 4 at a time then sell them to my friends for $27. The part number is SP-1136
 
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mikidymac said:
You can get the OEM ones from Floyd Bell and they will last another 20 years. They are only $21.46 but they charge $20 for shipping and handling no matter how many you buy. I typically buy 4 at a time then sell them to my friends for $27. The part number is SP-2146
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I understand your point is to always stick with OEM, but is there a reason a non OEM buzzer won't last 20 yrs? All day you can buy non OEM buzzers for less than $10 shipped to your door.. Unless there's a good reason to stick with the OEM in this case, then why would I or anyone pay $41.46 or up to $79 I've seen for this? And buying a 20 yr old used one off a stripped ski for $20 that could quit tomorrow ? Why? makes no sense...
 
GGuillot said:
I understand your point is to always stick with OEM, but is there a reason a non OEM buzzer won't last 20 yrs? All day you can buy non OEM buzzers for less than $10 shipped to your door.. Unless there's a good reason to stick with the OEM in this case, then why would I or anyone pay $41.46 or up to $79 I've seen for this? And buying a 20 yr old used one off a stripped ski for $20 that could quit tomorrow ? Why? makes no sense...
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No reason to not try something cheaper. I used a Radio Shack one probably 10 years ago when you could actually go to your local Radio Shack and it only lasted a couple seasons. For me I like to do things once and just enjoy my skis instead of always working on them. Sometimes cheaper ends up costing you more. For me, I'm not going to cry over spending $20 for my skis.

Like I said, I buy enough that the OEM ones only cost me $27 but I do sell them to friends and family and I have never had one go out.

I would never buy a $70 one from seadoo or have a clue why someone would pay $20 for a used one. To be honest on my last order Floyd Bell only charged me $21.46 each and a $5.00 credit card fee so not too bad.
 
Seadoo Tuner said:
What angle should the adjustable back part of the jet pump be at? Slightly upwards, downwards, or even?
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I'm referring to the steerable nozzle's (the arrow points to in pic below) angle and the best setting it should be at since its adjustable :
seadooimpeller.jpg
 
No, typically they don’t seal closed flooding the engine.

All the ones I have seen the tilt of the nozzle isn’t adjustable unless it has VTS trim. On a ski without trim the nozzle should be level with the rideplate.
 
mikidymac said:
No, typically they don’t seal closed flooding the engine.

All the ones I have seen the tilt of the nozzle isn’t adjustable unless it has VTS trim. On a ski without trim the nozzle should be level with the rideplate.
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Mine is manually adjustable on the 96 and was tilted up slightly last ride I did. Seemed to take it a bit longer to get the bow down than when I rode it the previous year so wondered on the best setting. Found an article that explained the different angles and how they affect the ride so will tilt it down slightly next ride which is supposed to give better steering response and handling.
 
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Saw a different thread on missing siphon tubes and how they can leak water inside the hull if missing. Noticed mine has one missing but I have no leakage luckily. Can a piece of pvc clear hose glued in be used as a fix?
IMG_20180905_210124.jpeg
 
mikidymac said:
No, typically they don’t seal closed flooding the engine.

All the ones I have seen the tilt of the nozzle isn’t adjustable unless it has VTS trim. On a ski without trim the nozzle should be level with the rideplate.
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Ah, that makes sense, I thought you were talking about the needle being stuck closed. So would a weak spring (either age or wrong size) cause a similar issue?
 
Took the SPI on the lake again today, I had tightened all hose clamps and checked for engine air leaks by spraying WD40 (negative). Verified the pee holes by the hook were spraying water and took her out for a 5 minute ride and all seemed well - turned her off and restarted and then she stalls on acceleration. This happened a few times and then I turned the fuel selector to reserve and it no longer stalls. Rode for a bit and then tried the main tank again and she stalls. Back to the reserve setting and she's ok again. Engine was hot on head after 30 minutes but not super hot and checked compression and it was rock steady at the 145 both read cold as well so seems compression is good and engine has no air leak. Plugs were coffee brown. Drove her harder than last ride a few weeks back and she pulled strong. Was a fun satisfying ride!

So, why would she ride much better on reserve setting with half a tank of gas and stall on acceleration on regular tank setting?
 
It's most likely a bad fuel valve. Otherwise it's a kinked or clogged fuel line or a loose connection where the line goes on a fitting.
 
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