cylinder specs

[NIL8er]

So then those links I posted would work since you have standard bores. Mine are easy to read because they're brand new still in the box.

ordered them : )

 

[NIL8er]

the oem counterbalance shaft bearing is on back order, anyone got a new 6304E lying around. Ball Bearing 6304E

290932095 420932095

 

[NIL8er]

^^^^^^Gotcha, it read like YOU bought it direct from WSM.

in some states they will sell retail.

 

[racerxxx]

the oem counterbalance shaft bearing is on back order, anyone got a new 6304E lying around. Ball Bearing 6304E

290932095 420932095

The following are SKF bearings, the same mfg that seadoo gets their from--no China crap bearings. Most SKF's are Germany, Spain, Argentina. I do have a full set, but will be holding on to them, I bought the extras as a mistake. Have you tried you local bearings and drive place? My guys are usually just around dealer price on the bearings but if they don't have it, I can have it the next day or the day after at no extra charge. If I have time, I just get surplus off Ebay. Just ordered some other SKF's for my neighbors pool pump---ditching the cheap China bearings that lasted them 3 measly seasons in a brand new pump, I won't touch this pump for years now.


Front bearing with High Temp grease---I just paid $20 for a pair shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-6304-2R...620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4191504704


Rear bearing I just paid $21.98 for a pair shipped


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SKF-ROL...789?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f71ae2ad

 

[NIL8er]

The following are SKF bearings, the same mfg that seadoo gets their from--no China crap bearings. Most SKF's are Germany, Spain, Argentina. I do have a full set, but will be holding on to them, I bought the extras as a mistake. Have you tried you local bearings and drive place? My guys are usually just around dealer price on the bearings but if they don't have it, I can have it the next day or the day after at no extra charge. If I have time, I just get surplus off Ebay. Just ordered some other SKF's for my neighbors pool pump---ditching the cheap China bearings that lasted them 3 measly seasons in a brand new pump, I won't touch this pump for years now.


Front bearing with High Temp grease---I just paid $20 for a pair shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-6304-2R...620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4191504704


Rear bearing I just paid $21.98 for a pair shipped


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SKF-ROL...789?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f71ae2ad

i need the PTO end ones next to the gear on the counterbalance shaft. Are these the same ones as 6304 E. i dont see where it says E

 

[racerxxx]

Are you reading it? It should say C3 And that would be the one I have marked REAR bearing. E designated DOUBLE ROW, meaning 2 rows of ball bearings. Like I said, hit a local shop let them look it up for you.


JEM is steel cage quiet running also denotes C3 tolerance just not marked. My bearing house spec'd it for me. The original ones have a special plastic cage, they're a european bearing and are not very easy to get here. Those (plastic cage) are rated for 17K RPM, the JEM is good for 19K RPM from what they told me, IIRC. I do regular business for work with them so I know they won't screw me.

 

[NIL8er]

its at home, has more inscribed but i dont recall all of them. your a huge help thanks again.

 

[NIL8er]

so bottom line is thatll work?

 

[racerxxx]

No, I just wanted to blow $42 on paper weights. Yeah they'll work, if you don't want to use them you won't hurt my feelings. If you want to check up on them, again, go hit your local bearing house.

I just took this pic, I have them in hand and they're going on a cb shaft here in the next week. I already have the JEM in my 96 engine. If you look at my build threads, I typically don't cheap out on crap. I'm the guy who doesn't want problems on the water and I don't want to ride with my shoulders scrunched in the air wondering when it's gonna grenade and if I'm swimming home.



Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[NIL8er]

I appreciate it. But why the smart ass remarks. just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing something. Not questioning your expertise.

 

[racerxxx]

I appreciate it. But why the smart ass remarks. just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing something. Not questioning your expertise.

Relax man--first line was loaded with sarcasm. As far as not questioning the expertise, in my eyes you did (see below). Just do me a favor, like I have mentioned before a few times, go visit your local bearing house, reconfirm with them.

so bottom line is thatll work?

 

[NIL8er]

no worries. i just didnt want u to think i was doubting your advice but wanted to clarify before i bought them and ****ed up the ski.
so bottom line is thatll work? was a way to be absolutely sure so there wasnt any mistake on my part. you took it wrong. so thanks though you have helped a great deal and saved me some $$$

 

[NIL8er]

getting prepped to reassemble motor . I had to replace the counterbalance open bearing and and crank shaft. 2 Questions : what is best to lube the new bearings and how far do i put the counter balance bearing on to shaft?

 

[NIL8er]

has any one ever put a filler access for the counter balance reservoir to refill it since there isn't one? and manual calls for 1oz sae 30, is there a better oil for this application

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, you can look in my threads and see the case fill mod. Google search for seadoo 787 case fill mod racerxxx.

Just use hd-30 sae oil. They used to use xps2 2 stoke oil

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[NIL8er]

Yep, you can look in my threads and see the case fill mod. Google search for seadoo 787 case fill mod racerxxx.

Just use hd-30 sae oil. They used to use xps2 2 stoke oil

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

got it, thnx. so what is the right placement of the CB open bearing, its not in the manual. doesnt look like precision is crucial though?

 

[racerxxx]

Push it on till it bottoms out. You better do the sealed one too, that's the one that will go bang.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[NIL8er]

Push it on till it bottoms out. You better do the sealed one too, that's the one that will go bang.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

never mind i see it now, and your right gonna do the sealed one too.

 

[NIL8er]

No, I just wanted to blow $42 on paper weights. Yeah they'll work, if you don't want to use them you won't hurt my feelings. If you want to check up on them, again, go hit your local bearing house.

I just took this pic, I have them in hand and they're going on a cb shaft here in the next week. I already have the JEM in my 96 engine. If you look at my build threads, I typically don't cheap out on crap. I'm the guy who doesn't want problems on the water and I don't want to ride with my shoulders scrunched in the air wondering when it's gonna grenade and if I'm swimming home.

View attachment 30992

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

is the bottom one the sealed one for the counterbalance weight end?

 

[racerxxx]

The front by the mag housing get the sealed

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[NIL8er]

The front by the mag housing get the sealed

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

yes i understand

 

[NIL8er]

do the upper rings face with theFLAT part up or down on the piston? as opposed to the side where you can see sides sticking up

 

[racerxxx]

I believe it states it in the manual. I never disassemble anything until I get the replacement parts, or I take a pic with my phone.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[NIL8er]

I believe it states it in the manual. I never disassemble anything until I get the replacement parts, or I take a pic with my phone.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

although great advice, im past that point and the manual doesn't specify. Anyone else?

 

[racerxxx]

I'm almost positive they show a picture. Your talking about the L shaped ring, which I think SHOULD be flat down.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk