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97' GSX Nasty Bog!!Help!

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crf4501985

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Just got inside from a long day workin on my ski(97' seadoo gsx w/ 787 motor) and still didn't fix it. Last week I was out on lake erie flying around ski running great then all of a sudden it started bogging down(was out for a few hours before this started happening) and then died while I still had the throttle at about 3/4-full throttle. It started back up after a few secs and would idle fine but as soon as I gave it some gas it would bog down and want to die. So I brought it home and flushed it and lubed it up and finally got some time today to dig into it. I pulled the carbs off and went through both of them cleaning and blowing out the jets, lines, little cigarette bud filters, checking the needle valves for wear and everything checked out. I actually rebuilt the carbs about a year and a half ago and really havn't put to many hours on the ski since then. So I put the carbs back on and adjusted the cables and still bogging down! Just wondering if anyone has had the same problem in the past and can steer me in the right direction so I'm not working on this problem for ever. Thanks for any responses.
 
You will usually get a pretty quick response here on the seadoo forum. Is it bogging down at low speed while accelerating or when just cruising at top speed? Did you try changing spark plugs? You might have just fouled plugs. What is the compression by the way...that is a older seadoo.

Karl
 
wow, that was quick! It bogs down as soon as i give it gas after a little under half throttle. If I hold it full throttle it will stall it out. I just regaped a new set of plugs for it .020-.024 BR8ES and put them in. That was the first thing I tried. I havn't checked the compression since last summer if I remember it was 145-150 in each cylinder. It only has 105 hours on it. But I will check again tomorrow after work. I don't believe that is an issue but i will certainly check.
 
I forget off hand it you model has an accelerator pump and I don't have access to the manual where I am...this computer has s l o w dial up. To check the accelerator pump remove the carb cover and with the engine not running see if it squirts fuel in the throat of the carb when you push the throttle. If not it could be your problem. The fitting at the carb throat is more than likely plugged. Use compressed air to clear it.

I hope this helps. If your still stuck, let us know and we'll look for something else to do.

Karl
 
I don't remember ever reading about an accelerator pump in my shop manual, and I have a choke to start the cold motor. I cleared the fitting on the carb. where the fuel inlet line connects in to and seems to be clear. anything else I might look for, rave valves? timing? runs fine on idle.
 
I'm at a disadvantage, as I can't open the manuals...I apologize! It is possible that it could be the RAVE valve. Here is some info on the rave. ( I did a search of one of my other posts).

The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows". Be careful with the small retaining spring that holds the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so, replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine, if so equiped. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.

The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.


Karl
 
thanks for all the quick help! There are good people in this world after all! Well its a little to late tonight to tear in to that but I know I cleaned them about to years ago but might be time again. So hopefully ill get to them tomorrow after work and get them cleaned up and get back on here and tell you how successful i was. If not then on to the next thing. ha, thanks again
 
Let us know how you make out. If you get in a jam give us a shout...we're here for you ...
:cheers:
Karl
 
Nope no grey fuel lines, replaced with the black stuff 2 years ago. The little filters in the carbs where really clean, just a few particles of sand. Just got home from work and am goin out to do a service on the rave valves. wish me luck, i let u know how it works.
 
Just finished up with the rave valve job and they had a decent amount of carbon build up on he slides but still no solution.... hmm, can the high speed screws sometimes unscrew themselves from vibration? I know they should be fully closed... on to the next thing, thanks for stickin with me!
 
I'd direct dump a tablespoon of gas mix down the carbs, and see if it starts. If it does, then you know it is starved for fuel.

Just a fast way to eliminate that one.

Nate
 
I have read that a bog means too much fuel and that a hesatation means that it is runing too lean. From reading your post it seems like you may be runing lean to me though. I would start with a compression test :cheers:
 
Just finished up with a test. 155 psi in each cylinder. I was kinda thinking I might be getting to much fuel because I had the spark arrestor off and only had the carbs on and fired it up then gave it some throttle and saw mist coming out of the throats of the carbs. But how could it go from running perfect to having to much fuel all of a sudden. The needle valves looked perfect, just rebuilt the carbs 2 seasons ago and hardly put any hours on it.
 
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You may need to check the pulse line going to the carbs fuel pumps make sure that it is not cloged or anything like that I believe that you will allso have a line gong to your rave valves you nead to check that allso and if there is a check valve and or a switch incorperated in the line going to the rave valves I would inspect them allso.:cheers: ps this compression test was not done a week ago? I tested my compression one day because I had a problem I fixed the problem and the next day I had a different problem and I did not check compression again the next day because it was good the day before. guess what?
 
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Just finished up with a test. 155 psi in each cylinder. I was kinda thinking I might be getting to much fuel because I had the spark arrestor off and only had the carbs on and fired it up then gave it some throttle and saw mist coming out of the throats of the carbs. But how could it go from running perfect to having to much fuel all of a sudden. The needle valves looked perfect, just rebuilt the carbs 2 seasons ago and hardly put any hours on it.
You may need to put this back on when testing. [spark arrestor] :cheers:
 
Just finished up with a test. 155 psi in each cylinder. I was kinda thinking I might be getting to much fuel because I had the spark arrestor off and only had the carbs on and fired it up then gave it some throttle and saw mist coming out of the throats of the carbs. But how could it go from running perfect to having to much fuel all of a sudden. The needle valves looked perfect, just rebuilt the carbs 2 seasons ago and hardly put any hours on it.

2 seasons ago...you mean 2 years...pull your carbs and clean them. Check you internal carb filters. The compression is fine. Clean the carbs and new plugs...fire it up.

Karl
 
I had the carbs off yesterday and had them apart and cleaned them up. Blew compressed air through all jets, sprayed carb. cleaner, checked everything out, everything looked good. The filters had barely any signs of debrie. Yea sorry, we have pretty nasty winters up here so I go by seasons not years. ha
 
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