Water test time?
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97 GTS won’t run
- Thread starter Gwstaudy
- Start date
First I’ve got to re prime my oil injection system as I can see air bubbles in the hose. I’m also confused on my high speed needle because the site you sent me tells me to turn it out 1 and a half turns but everywhere else says to leave it all the way in. Atleast in other threads I’ve read and what not. It also says to screw out the low speed 1 turn where in other places like the manual it tells me 1 and 3/4 turns out.
I agree, I have used this site a few times and seen that others use it as well but I have heard there is the odd mistake in it. I usually always trust this site more than the manual oddly enough for settings and pop off. In this case unless someone else chimes in, I would start with the low out 1 and 3/4 turns like you seen in the manual and high out 1 1/2 turns. Your going to rich but better rich than lean, if it bogs up to 1/4 throttle then turn the low in a quarter turn, if it bogs at higher rpm’s turn the high in. Have some extra plugs handy, the old plugs if running rich should dry up and be usable in a few days
I’m just noticing a large amount of oil in the bottom of my ski and the grommets that lead to the oil injector have oil on them and I see oil on the top of the tank too. It doesn’t seem like the oil is coming out of those thought it seems like one of the lines are leaky. How do I fix this properly. And how do I tell if the leak is from the engine itself, the lines or the tank
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It kind of seems like buying a block off kit and premixing would be easier.
To find leaks I juste clean everything up real good and then wrap the lines with paper towel as well as the pit paper towels beneath the tank. The 2 piece oil tanks are notorious for leaking at the seam. I’ve always kept all my machines with the oil injection just because of the pain in the ass factor of mixing but if you do go to pre mix just remember you will need to keep the tank for the rotary valve. The grommet on the bottom of the oil tank is another common leak point
The grommets are all oily and there is some oil on the neck and side of the tank but not enough to cause this mess. It also isn’t oily underneath the grommets but the only oil line that’s wet is the one that is above the starter. My starter is also doused in oil. So it’s definitely leaking there but I don’t know why or how to fix it. I also can’t see it as it’s covered by the exhaust manifold.
That’s the rotary valve return line, wonder if maybe it got melted? Have to get a mirror and have a look
I see it and it looks fine but I see the oil on it and I don’t know how it’s getting on the starter because the top of the starter is dry but the bottom is wet. But it would make sense if it’s that line because the engine mount is also covered in oil. The hose clamp might not be tight enough and I haven’t ran it in a while so maybe the oil on top of the starter moved to the bottom and dried?
The hose clamp is very tight so maybe it got overtightened and the line a bit.
New update:
I got it back together and I poured a bit of premix down the intake and it fired up for a second and instantly dies. It might not be fully primed but this should mean my rotary valve is correctly timed correct? It does appear fuel is going into the carb so why isn’t it continuing to run?
I got it back together and I poured a bit of premix down the intake and it fired up for a second and instantly dies. It might not be fully primed but this should mean my rotary valve is correctly timed correct? It does appear fuel is going into the carb so why isn’t it continuing to run?
So if you put fuel in gather plug holes it runs till it burns up that fuel?
It’ll run longer than that and a few times it won’t stop. I turned up the idle and it does ok now when I put fuel in but when I don’t put fuel in it won’t start very well. But it will start occasionally but doesn’t seem to stay running.
Do you still have to pull the choke for it to run? I know it was spoken of earlier but just to double check, after the carb is all back together it will hold 10 pounds of pressure on the fuel supply fitting? Did you test the fuel pump diagram to see if it holds 4 pounds? There’s a test in the manual to test the fuel pump Mylar check valves, I don’t do that test but my machines have all ran good after carb rebuild so I never bothered with that test. Have you tried running a fuel line from a container of pre mixed fuel to eliminate the possibility of leaking selector valve and fuel filter,? Did you ever find the receipt from Bay Area powersports to verify that it was Mikuni and not the winderossa they are selling. I mean did you look back and see where you ordered it from? Originally you thought it was Bay Area powersports who sells Winderossa. I’m sure this was covered already but where are you popping off? Did you put new needle and seat in? Is it leaking? Maybe double check that your fuel lines are routed correctly. Stock air box on it? What kind of fuel line? If you can verify all these things, than it will run if it’s running with fuel poured in the plug holes.
I would start with checking your fuel line routing again, test the fuel pump diaphragm with 4 pounds and check the fuel pump check valves as per the manual. Also What line are you using for the pulse line? And what’s your compression again? Sorry if I’m asking things that have already been covered
Sometimes it still needs to be choked but it can run without it if it’s a little warmer. The carb does hold ten pounds of pressure and my pop off was 38 psi. I also checked the packaging and confirmed it was a genuine mikuni kit and no my needle and seat are not leaking but I did replace them when I rebuilt the carb. I don’t think I ever tested the fuel pump diaphragm and I haven’t ran it from fuel line straight to a tank of premix. When I rebuilt the fuel system I did replace the fuel selector and the filter and filter o ring. I’ve made sure my fuel lines are correctly routed and while I’ve been testing it I’ve not had the airbox on because I keep having to take off the carb. But it is a stock air box. I bought JLP power sports clear green 1/4 inch fuel lines off Amazon.
My pulse line is the same fuel line I said I used in the post above. It’s been a while since I checked compression but i believe both cylinders were around 130-140 and this engine hasn’t been broken in. Do I need to take the carb off to test the fuel diaphragm?
You will have to check the manual for the procedure to check the fuel pump check valves, it’s something like blow in and it should hold, suck and it should allow but like I said I’ve never done that test so you will have to check it out, I personally would start with running a line directly to a container of pre mix. Sometimes those new selector valves leak, especially if you bought it from amazon. I like to stick with OSD and Seadoo warehouse so I don’t have to worry about amazon junk because it is a real thing. Also I don’t remember what fuel line you used? And I couldn’t find it. It needs to be good quality black fuel line, especially for the pulse line
The fuel lines are from JLP powersports on Amazon.
The lines are see through and I can see gas go into the carb so does that mean the fuel selector isn’t leaking? It is one from Amazon though. I’ll still try running it from a container of premix. I’ll have to do it tomorrow.
If that’s clear fuel line, you need to get some black fuel line for the pulse line. The soft clear line absorbs some of the pulse and the pulse from the crankcase is what runs the fuel diaphragm
That could cause an issue like this?
Also when you were rebuilding the carb did you get flow coming out the 2 or 4 small holes in the body of the carb when you put cleaner in the pilot jet hole? I believe fuel at idle is supplied through these tiny holes. It’s all mentioned in Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread, only thing he doesn’t mention is to screw the low speed screw in a turn or so to help get that flow from the pilot jet to those small holes in carb throat
Absolutely it can and does, your having problems getting fuel and the clear line doesn’t allow for a strong pulse as it absorbs some of it because it’s a soft material. I actually hate the clear line altogether, never a proper 1/4” ID but if it’s not sucking air then it will be fine for the lines but need to change for pulse line
Yes I’m pretty certain I blew carb cleaner through every hole I could to make sure they were clear.
