Could I change the pulse back to the gray line that it was before or would that get green goo in the carb. Otherwise I’ll grab some black fuel lines tomorrow and replace it.
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97 GTS won’t run
- Thread starter Gwstaudy
- Start date
I see no reason why you could t put the grey one back on, just clean it up with some detergent, rinse it and dry it with compressed air
I put the old gray line back on and it was still reluctant to start. I manually poured fuel in and it ran until it ran out of that fuel. I didn’t get a chance to connect a hose straight to a tank because my battery died.
Try running a hose directly to a container of fuel, if it doesn’t work then your going to have to look at the carb again
Went out today and it fired up right away turned off choke and it kept running then it went to die and I was able to keep it running for a few more seconds with the choke. This was without hooking a hose directly to a container. It is cold so that could be why it killed I’m not sure.
So something is not right, I wouldn’t try to start it anymore until you fix the problem, otherwise you run the risk of damaging the engine because it does sound like it’s running lean. When you put the clear fuel lines on, were they pretty snug to get on, kind of like you could use it with no clamps? I’ve found with the clear line, it’s like the clamps are creating the seal and with the black hose they fit so snugly that they are sealed when put on, and the clamp or zip tie is just an added insurance. What I’m saying is I find it difficult to seal up the system with the clear line.
No they are snug and I definitely could go without using the clamps but I have them on anyway. I also managed to keep it running using the choke whenever it was going to die.
I would run an auxiliary line to a container and see if that cures it, if not your going to have to look at the carbs again.
Did not do anything to resolve the issue. Still required choke as well.
Ran a line from a container to the fuel inlet fitting on the carb? Still needed choke to run then you are going to need to go through the carbs again. Carbs are torqued down to proper specs? New gasket? Surfaces cleaned up good first? Air box is on?
Yes I ran a line straight from a container to the carb inlet. Carb has a new gasket and I cleaned the surfaces. The airbox has not been on just the flame arrestor. I have gone through the carb twice. It soaked in parts cleaner twice and I cleared all holes with carb cleaner. I also completely rebuilt it with only genuine mikuni parts.
Put the air box back on, it does restrict the air
B
Is there a possiblity that that’s the only issue?
It’s possible, let’s hope. I like to rule things out then I don’t have to worry about that anymore. Like testing the fuel selector valve and filter with a few pounds of vacuum. If you have good compression which you do, good spark which you do because it runs with fuel pit in the plug holes then that only leaves fuel, fuel/air mixture. Try putting the air box back on, but unfortunately if it still doesn’t work properly I hate to say it, but it pretty much has to be the carbs. Did you change the Mylar check valves in the fuel pump block? Blue stripe on the Mylar discs up? Didn’t oumc a hole in the grommets that holds them in. Place? Did you take the jets out when you rebuilt? Happen to notice what size they were?
Changed everything in the carb including the check valves. No hole in the grommets and I took the jets out and cleaned them but no idea what size they were.
Still will not run without choke even with the airbox on
It’s either getting to much air or not enough fuel. Did you rebuild the engine, did you do a leak down test for the crankcase, Could be sucking air from the outer crank seals, I know I’ve probably asked this before but what are your high and low screws set at?
Never did a leak down test after my engine rebuild. You told me what to set my high and low screws at. I remember my low was 1 1/4 but I don’t remember the high it was probably from 0-1 1/2.
Seadoo source says low 1 turn out and high 1 and a half turns out which is very odd, usually more like 1 and a half turns out for the low and 0 turns out for the high but that’s what it says
Well the only thing currently affecting it would be the low because it’s running at idle not at high speeds correct? And if I turned my low in any more it would get less fuel which doesn’t seem to be the issue.
What size needle and seat did the kit come with?
Yep, I wouldn’t turn it in any more at this point.
It’s a 1.5 mm but it didn’t come with the kit I ordered it separately but made sure it was genuine mikuni.
