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96 seadoo xp custom build

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What are going to use to get to the larger hose? Just a plastic barb?

im a brass guy, but plastic would work. ill make a nice mount for it in the ski. my spx that i built last winter is getting the same thing done to it. both of the skis are pre mix and the spx has the oil tank in it and since i dont use the pump i have to plug that oil line and the dang thing always leeks a bit so im just going to delete it so i keep it all nice and clean inside.
 
First let me say I am no expert on this bit if you lighten only the flywheel by a good margin and not the PTO you stand the risk of twisting the crank. I would think it would be better to do some on both.
 
First let me say I am no expert on this bit if you lighten only the flywheel by a good margin and not the PTO you stand the risk of twisting the crank. I would think it would be better to do some on both.
I agree 100% definitely need to take some off both. I know it will wear my crank bearings sooner but after all this ski is not stock by any means and I have 7 others to ride.
 
I do know Group K used to have a lightening service but I am sure they won't share any of their secrets. Theirs still protected the crank bearings.

Back in the day the racers used light total loss flywheels and almost non existent aluminum PTO's but they rebuilt their engines a lot.
 
Ok worked on the fuel tank tonight and it had a dead f1 fuse. Well when I got it apart the f1 fuse was gone and part where the screw driver is pointing at was broke in two. I pushed it back down and repaired the f1 fuse. It reads now on the volt meter but when the float is all the way at the top I got zip . When the float is at the bottom it reads high...is this right or did something go wrong?20170106_003303.jpg
 
Ok worked on the fuel tank tonight and it had a dead f1 fuse. Well when I got it apart the f1 fuse was gone and part where the screw driver is pointing at was broke in two. I pushed it back down and repaired the f1 fuse. It reads now on the volt meter but when the float is all the way at the top I got zip . When the float is at the bottom it reads high...is this right or did something go wrong?View attachment 38702

Looks good!! Your readings are correct. Melting the plastic back is a bit of a art form. How does the final product look?
 
Looks good!! Your readings are correct. Melting the plastic back is a bit of a art form. How does the final product look?

I still have to do that. I'm sure ill find a little time to do it tonight then ill post a pic.
 
I just run the iron into the seam slowly one time. Then I clean things up on a bench grinder so it slips back into the tank easily.
 
I did one years ago with a cheap stick iron and it was wasn't easy. Then I got it looking nice but it had an air leak somewhere.
 
I just use the same iron I was soldering with. Super easy if you made nice clean cuts.
 
Not without making a 88mm insert for it or something. I think stock is like 96mm.

I'd sell you a set of Solas nozzles for $175 shipped. I think the steering nozzle is almost 89mm and the reduction nozzle is 85ish
 
Not without making a 88mm insert for it or something. I think stock is like 96mm.

I'd sell you a set of Solas nozzles for $175 shipped. I think the steering nozzle is almost 89mm and the reduction nozzle is 85ish
Thanks matt but I have an r and d. Was just doing some thinking
 
Ok so I got another coat done tonight on the bottom. I did get a pic of it when I was done but it has the pva on it so it looks like rain. Tomorrow I'll wash it off with soap and water and probably do one more coat then it's on to buffing. 20170111_231807.jpg20170111_231832.jpg20170111_231819.jpg
 
I also got around to putting the fuel baffle back together. By any means it doesn't look pretty but I'll sand it up tomorrow and you'll never know LOL20170112_000501.jpg20170112_000506.jpg
 
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Last coat done I hope....now on to wet sanding and some good old buffing. This time I sprayed the pva sealer and it turned out 100% better20170112_234051.jpg20170112_234035.jpg
 
That's some nice work there. I hired this part done on one of my X4's and it cost me like 800 bucks.
 
that's some nice work there. I hired this part done on one of my x4's and it cost me like 800 bucks.

i kinda wish i had done that lol. Takes a lot of time with the rolling and tipping method.

I'm into the bottom for about $150 and a good 12hrs.

The only thing is that i love to spray stuff (easy) but i thought i would save $180 and just do the roll and tip (need a cup gun and i didnt have one). Next time i think i would like to spray. But heck its just time wet sanding and buffing lol
 
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