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2001 sportster 5900rpm max

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Waterluver said i should install one of these to check the rpms with my gauges to see if they match up
 
Can i remove top part of exhaust pipe/manifold to paint it. I geuss my question is is there a gasket or something i would have to worry about when removing and replacing it. Or can i just take it off and put it back on with no problems
 
Can i remove top part of exhaust pipe/manifold to paint it. I geuss my question is is there a gasket or something i would have to worry about when removing and replacing it. Or can i just take it off and put it back on with no problems
 
Yes, you will need a new manifold gasket if you remove the pipe, and some sealer at least for the cone end. Pay particular interest to apply the correct torque during reassembly, over-torquing these locations, especially the square flange might warp the flange and create sealing problems.

It's actually recommended to use new stainless fasteners at the square flange but at least follow the service manual instructions for reinstalling this pipe.

Bonmatwang didn't seem to have much difficulty removing/ installing his pipe but he claimed to have discovered a secret idea and didn't explain so ask him about the detail! :)
 
The manifold gasket was in a good shape on my pipe.
this is the picture. In my opinion, if you put it back the same way, it shouldn't be a problem.
But since I have it in my kit, I replaced it.
yry4a7y8.jpg

Edit: Sorry. I made a mistake there. Yes there are two paper gasket between the pipe and the manifold. And they will be damaged when you take them apart and you WILL need new ones.

There is no secret to remove the pipe head.

But the head and the cone could be stuck together hard. I tried to separate them before I came up with my "patented" idea. But I couldn't break them apart, so I torqued the clamp back according to the manual.

PS.
My secret way is to remove the cylinder head without taking the exhaust pipe out of the bilge, and without separating the head and the cone.
I thought I have revealed my secret: I used a rope hanging from the ceiling and holding the exhaust pipe, you can turn the whole exhaust pipe assembly all the way up until it clears our the space for remove and working on the cylinder for the whole process of top end rebuild.
 
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bonmotwang, I see yours has the o-ring type gasket, it also used the paper type with that? There are more than one design, later seadoo used the o-ring gasket for the improved version in addition to the strange rubber flange diaper.

Item 26 is the o-ring gasket but I don't see the paper type being used on this type of manifold? I suppose it's possible to reuse the o-ring but in that case it's not possible for me to have confidence water from the jacket won't leak backward into the cylinder ports?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=4&Action=O

edit: This other drawing shows item #59 as well, the rubber "diaper" as I call it. LOL:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=5&Action=O
 
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Thanks do you know a place to order the gaskets online

Yes, you can get this gasket from many sources online, one is the sponsor and click parts above on this page then navigate to your year and model, you can get it from them this way.

Or there are various other places, a google search for the p/n will provide you many alternative sources, I think.

Let me know if you can't find it, I'll provide a link.

The p/n for this o-ring is 290931990, and I think this link can get you some other choices:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=SEADOO EXHAUST GASKET DI 290931990&_itemId=330850557724
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
bonmotwang, I see yours has the o-ring type gasket, it also used the paper type with that? There are more than one design, later seadoo used the o-ring gasket for the improved version in addition to the strange rubber flange diaper.

Item 26 is the o-ring gasket but I don't see the paper type being used on this type of manifold? I suppose it's possible to reuse the o-ring but in that case it's not possible for me to have confidence water from the jacket won't leak backward into the cylinder ports?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=4&Action=O

edit: This other drawing shows item #59 as well, the rubber "diaper" as I call it. LOL:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=5&Action=O
So your saying that i might not need a new gasket in that case just check it and reseal. Or if i see a paper gasket replace
 
So your saying that i might not need a new gasket in that case just check it and reseal. Or if i see a paper gasket replace

Yeah, it's up to you concerning gasket replacement I guess but if it was mine I'd install a new one regardless of which type is used. I think yours should be the later o-ring type as opposed to the earlier paper type so I dunno what bonmatwang was getting at or what he did with his. The o-ring type is used on the updated manifold, so if someone has installed the earlier manifold you might find it uses the paper gasket.

edit: also note two different types of sealer are applied, 518 loctite on the o-ring and another type on the cone flange. and the bolts/fasteners are installed with loctite threadlocker blue, I think.

So, I'd stick as closely to the service manual instructions as possible, there's a lot of vibration and stress on the exhaust manifold, so it's one of those assemblies that has to be paid attention to the letter.
 
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What should i use to clean manifold connection area. Or what should i not use. Any degreaser like superclean alright
And yes it does have a rudder gasket that i will change.
Is there anything i should check while i have the muffler off?
 
bonmotwang, I see yours has the o-ring type gasket, it also used the paper type with that? There are more than one design, later seadoo used the o-ring gasket for the improved version in addition to the strange rubber flange diaper.

Item 26 is the o-ring gasket but I don't see the paper type being used on this type of manifold? I suppose it's possible to reuse the o-ring but in that case it's not possible for me to have confidence water from the jacket won't leak backward into the cylinder ports?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=4&Action=O

edit: This other drawing shows item #59 as well, the rubber "diaper" as I call it. LOL:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=5&Action=O

I was talking about item 24. But I guess you are not taking the manifold off. So you are good. Only clean the gasket a little. and put it back, you should be good. there are enough compression on the rubber gasket for reuse I think.
 
What should i use to clean manifold connection area. Or what should i not use. Any degreaser like superclean alright
And yes it does have a rudder gasket that i will change.
Is there anything i should check while i have the muffler off?

If you want to make sure the seal. Maybe some high temp gasket maker will help?
 
Look dor sand, rocks, dirt, gravel and mineral deposits of course, anything that might impede water flow. Those welded in plugs are known to rot out, an aluminum tig welder can replace them unless you prefer to wait for them to fail (not seen them fail on the 951 yet that I know of).
 
Would this be a good time to change trottle cable?
Is there a filter in the little white cylinder on the hose coming from the oil reservoir?
 
Would this be a good time to change trottle cable?
Is there a filter in the little white cylinder on the hose coming from the oil reservoir?

Yes & yes, how's the new tach working have you confirmed the dash gauge yet? Saw your sound system thread, that's going to get you noticed out there :)
 
Yes & yes, how's the new tach working have you confirmed the dash gauge yet? Saw your sound system thread, that's going to get you noticed out there :)

So do i need to change that filter? Oil filter?
Thanks the sound system was loud this year next year it will be crazy. On the lake we go to we sit at the sand bar and people look for us. They love the music out there. I also love doing it its something i enjoy instslling on my off time.
I know its a alittle crazy but im happy with what im doing i will have pics when its complete.

Is there anything should know before installing trottle cable. I plan to put it in the correct postion on the carberater and adjust it corretly at the lever. See pic #1 and 2

Also take a look at what the muffer did to the steering cable. It looks like it only took the plastic cover off and it still works fine. Pic3
 

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Change the oil filter every year, they are only a couple of bucks and it's cheap insurance in the event something pollutes your oil tank it can save the oil pump/injection lines and engine. Just use a line pincher right below and above the filter to change it out and fill the new one with oil before installing it just keep a finger on the top side barb and be quick about it you won't lose much. I use a vacuum pump to draw it full of oil and cap the top nipple so I can take my time.

So long as you're doing the throttle cable by the book you should be good to go, your TPS has to be working right and you know the rest of the story on that. I can't like that steering cable at all, it's a safety consideration at planing speeds if something goes wrong, I actually wouldn't perform any repairs on a boat if it came in that way without agreeing to replace it.

I spent way to much time on the water at accident scenes a half hour away from you on the big lake over the years diving for bodies and loss of steering control above 25 knots makes for some horrific injuries to the head and spine, I'd just rather that never happen to anyone especially over a steering cable that should / could have been replaced.
 
Would this be a good time to change trottle cable?
Is there a filter in the little white cylinder on the hose coming from the oil reservoir?

If you change that oil strainer then make sure it'sthe correct type, those aren't standard paper type fuel filters, they have a plastic mesh inside that only catches large particles and the oil flows through them quickly and easily, not a fuel filter.
 
Is there alot to changing the steering cable or is it pretty much straight forward?

It's easy enough to change out, just be sure and reference the manual while your doing it and pay attention to the adjustment procedures at the helm so the wheel and steering nozzle are straight.
 
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