Waterluvr
New Member
Yep, it's got the hose fittings on each end. ~Lake Effect in town there close to you usually has them in stock.
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
2001 sportster 5900rpm max
- Thread starter shuka
- Start date
- Status
Yep, it's got the hose fittings on each end. ~Lake Effect in town there close to you usually has them in stock.
shuka
New Member
That lake effect is on round lake where our cottage is but i live in chicago. That lake effect is usually pretty high with their prices. I think im going to order the trottle cable from amazon and the oil filter from ebay. But thanks before ordering it i will check lake effect. We might be up in michigan this weekend.
By the way i have not had chance to check the tach/hour meter yet. I really want to check if the rpms are off.
I also am going to pic up a stock impeller and get in touch with you to see if thats the rpm problem. Do think we might be able to just put my old one back on to check if its the impeller causing the problem. I dont think its in that bad of shape.
shuka
New Member
So i should order 3 in case we put the solas back on?
Waterluvr
New Member
Go plug your boat info into SBT's website and have a look around there, they have just about anything your going to need for common parts, cables, seals etc. the customer service is top of the mark, they ship free over 100 bucks. Get as many pump seal gaskets as you think you might need plus one, having a spare gasket and wear ring on hand saves the day when and if you need to change an impeller on short notice ~it happens.
I still stock a good supply of most common parts for OMC/MERC/Yamaha for tune up parts and service gaskets etc. but if I'm in a pinch and need a part asap I like to give any business I can to Brian's Marine Service in St. Joe. they are on the island by the municipal launch.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Thinking about that exhaust expansion cone flange clamp, it's the ugliest piece of h/w on the entire boat I think and could use some sprucing up. Any ideas for that thing, I was thinking along the lines of a chain type flange clamp. Kinda low priority but nice aesthetic improvement if the fit is right....
http://www.n-c.com/CatalogSet.aspx?...sories.Chain_Clamp&set=Chain_Clamp&i=01EVAC02
http://www.n-c.com/CatalogSet.aspx?...sories.Chain_Clamp&set=Chain_Clamp&i=01EVAC02
Attachments
shuka
New Member
Wow that thing is kick ass but its not cheap. It would make it look alot better. I will have some pics in a couple days of what I have done to the engine compartment I have painted a few things and coated the entire enigine compartment with black bed liner. Im just waiting for the throttle cable to come.
Before i install throttle cable do have any tips with adjustments or anything else?
Before i install throttle cable do have any tips with adjustments or anything else?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I keep my oil tank less than half full, in case of leaks that might occur. So each year in spring I pour two quarts in and it's usually enough to run all summer but I can always add more so I don't worry about it. I watch the tank though, and make sure the indicator light comes on before the oil is gone so the indicator light is actually a leak detector to warn me about accidental loss of oil.
But if your oil is no more than a few years old it's probably fine still. If older than a few then stop adding oil and burn the remainder down before adding more. Shelf life in the original bottle is a bit longer I think, and it should be stored indoors during freezing weather if possible b/c the waxes might precipitate out. No proof of this, just a theory.
You should replace that plastic filter occasionally, I actually reverse flushed mine with oil and then recycled that oil for another purpose (lawnboy).
The throttle cable is in two sections, front half and rear half. I replaced the rear half of mine and the TPS came already on the new cable.
When adjusting the new cable I started from the front and worked towards the rear. Adjust the center section connector so that the TPS switch box reaches it's limit at the same time the helm control handle reaches it's WOT limit and there should be no tension on the center wire at this point, it should just reach it's limit of travel simultaneously with the helm control handle.
Then, connect the rear section to the engine and make the adjustments as necessary. Last thing is don't forget to recheck and confirm the oil pump lever is in the correct position after you make any adjustments b/c it's critical the oil pump lever isn't misadjusted.
In any case, the helm control should pull the rear split cable just to end of travel and not further b/c if the cable stops before the controller handle stops then unnecessary extra tension is created that will shorten the life of the cable and cause it to break.
But if your oil is no more than a few years old it's probably fine still. If older than a few then stop adding oil and burn the remainder down before adding more. Shelf life in the original bottle is a bit longer I think, and it should be stored indoors during freezing weather if possible b/c the waxes might precipitate out. No proof of this, just a theory.
You should replace that plastic filter occasionally, I actually reverse flushed mine with oil and then recycled that oil for another purpose (lawnboy).
The throttle cable is in two sections, front half and rear half. I replaced the rear half of mine and the TPS came already on the new cable.
When adjusting the new cable I started from the front and worked towards the rear. Adjust the center section connector so that the TPS switch box reaches it's limit at the same time the helm control handle reaches it's WOT limit and there should be no tension on the center wire at this point, it should just reach it's limit of travel simultaneously with the helm control handle.
Then, connect the rear section to the engine and make the adjustments as necessary. Last thing is don't forget to recheck and confirm the oil pump lever is in the correct position after you make any adjustments b/c it's critical the oil pump lever isn't misadjusted.
In any case, the helm control should pull the rear split cable just to end of travel and not further b/c if the cable stops before the controller handle stops then unnecessary extra tension is created that will shorten the life of the cable and cause it to break.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Then, for adjusting the carburetor connection I place the helm controller in the WOT position and with the cable attached to the carburetor but those jam nuts fully lose I pull the cable sheath at the carburetor toward the front of the boat, this will fully open the carburetor butterfly shafts to their limit of travel. Then while pulling on this cable sheath and keeping tension on it to pull open the carbs to WOT, I finger-tighten the front jam nut against the carb bracket. Once this is done then tighten the rear carb bracket jam nut and tighten with 10mm wrench.
At this point, the carb should reach it's full open (WOT) travel limit simultaneously with the helm control handle and not overtension the inner wire b/c too much tension will cause the inner wire to break.
Then check to make sure the carb throttle butterfly plates fully return to the idle position and there should be just a hint of slack in the wire at the carb connection with the helm controller in the idle position. It's VERY important the carb butterfly shaft goes fully back to the idle position and if it doesn't then the previous adjustment of WOT position wasn't successful.
Don't forget to recheck and adjust the oil pump cable again, and always after making any adjustments to the carb throttle linkage (including after adjusting idle speed screw).
At this point the throttle cable should operate smoothly from idle to WOT position and should not bind or have any springy feeling from being too tight. Don't force the cable if it's not adjusted properly.
At this point, the carb should reach it's full open (WOT) travel limit simultaneously with the helm control handle and not overtension the inner wire b/c too much tension will cause the inner wire to break.
Then check to make sure the carb throttle butterfly plates fully return to the idle position and there should be just a hint of slack in the wire at the carb connection with the helm controller in the idle position. It's VERY important the carb butterfly shaft goes fully back to the idle position and if it doesn't then the previous adjustment of WOT position wasn't successful.
Don't forget to recheck and adjust the oil pump cable again, and always after making any adjustments to the carb throttle linkage (including after adjusting idle speed screw).
At this point the throttle cable should operate smoothly from idle to WOT position and should not bind or have any springy feeling from being too tight. Don't force the cable if it's not adjusted properly.
Last edited by a moderator:
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure which part of the throttle cable you ordered, maybe you ordered both? We discussed the rear section a few months ago but I'm not sure if you ordered both sections or just the rear.
shuka
New Member
This is what i ordered what do you think
Attachments
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
That's the rear section, the piece that contains the TPS. The sections join at the edge of the fuel tank before the cable goes to the helm there is a piece of heat shrink tubing on the cable and under the heat shrink there is a connector there where the two pieces are joined.
shuka
New Member
Sbt only has one throttle cable for my boat and this is it. Why dont they ever show the upper part of the throttle cable?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think it's no longer available (NLA) but the upper section is probably very similar to some other ones from a different boat that can substitute, like a universal type. Usually the upper section is not subjected to as much abuse perhaps, not sure why SBT doesn't offer something.
Perhaps you have noticed when the wheel is turned to right or left lock the engine speed increases? It's supposed to do this b/c of the OPAS (Off-Power Assisted Steering) system.
It might be possibler to find something as a substitute if you didn't want to use the OPAS steering assist the cable is much simpler in that case b/c the front section with OPAS is a split type like the rear section is. Without OPAS function maybe you could use a single wire cable that doesn't have the split box.
Perhaps you have noticed when the wheel is turned to right or left lock the engine speed increases? It's supposed to do this b/c of the OPAS (Off-Power Assisted Steering) system.
It might be possibler to find something as a substitute if you didn't want to use the OPAS steering assist the cable is much simpler in that case b/c the front section with OPAS is a split type like the rear section is. Without OPAS function maybe you could use a single wire cable that doesn't have the split box.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
7700 RPM, wow! I don't see near that RPM on mine, ~6850 RPM max. I think your tach might be wrong a little but great to hear you got your speed back! Woo-hoo! 
shuka
New Member
7700 RPM, wow! I don't see near that RPM on mine, ~6850 RPM max. I think your tach might be wrong a little but great to hear you got your speed back! Woo-hoo!
Thats for the hour/rpm tach . My rpm gauge stopped working any thoughts on why?
Waterluvr
New Member
Good job, it put's a little bigger smile back your face now huh? Enjoy this warm snap, it sure was nice to get an extra weekend in.
- Status
Similar threads
