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2001 sportster 5900rpm max
- Thread starter shuka
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Waterluvr
New Member
Yep, those are the high side adjusters.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, they are underneath and the spec says they should be closed. If yours are open 1/4 turn the high speed mixture is going to be a little rich but shouldn't make a huge difference. I opened mine about this far and noticed a slight drop in RPM so closed them, it's been a while but I doubt the drop was more than 100 RPM.
I'd close them and see if you gain some RPM, if open by 1.5 turns this will drop WOT RPM a large amount.
The reason you don't have black limiter caps is b/c someone removed them, it's better that way anyway, the limiter caps crack and break anyway, then hinder the ability to remove or adjust the high speed mix screws properly b/c the cap just spins and the screw doesn't move when it's turned.
I'd close them and see if you gain some RPM, if open by 1.5 turns this will drop WOT RPM a large amount.
The reason you don't have black limiter caps is b/c someone removed them, it's better that way anyway, the limiter caps crack and break anyway, then hinder the ability to remove or adjust the high speed mix screws properly b/c the cap just spins and the screw doesn't move when it's turned.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Old school boat generators made about 30 amps (360 watts) of power, a typical 60 amp alternator will produce about 500 watts if that helps you have some basis for comparison for your stator coil.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Watts is Amps x Volts so 13.8vx70A is 956 Watts, about 5x more wattage than the 13.04A max capability of your 180 Watt permanent magnet stator generator system.
Basically, you have enough power for a 100W spotlight and still keep the battery from discharging if you keep the engine running and RPM's up, it's really only intended for maintaining the starting battery, not recharging it.
In the case of a large stereo system playing all day while lying on the beach, I think you would do well to have a second, deep cycle battery and recharge the deep cycle battery at end of day using a shore power battery charger.
Basically, you have enough power for a 100W spotlight and still keep the battery from discharging if you keep the engine running and RPM's up, it's really only intended for maintaining the starting battery, not recharging it.
In the case of a large stereo system playing all day while lying on the beach, I think you would do well to have a second, deep cycle battery and recharge the deep cycle battery at end of day using a shore power battery charger.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
It is the steering in idle cable. When all the way to left or right, it will be tight to give you a little speed. Slack is normal.
It is linked to throttle
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think you mean at the helm you noticed some smaller diameter slack cable attached to the steering linkage. This is the cable for low speed steering. This feature is called OTAS "Off Throttle Assisted Steering", when you turn the steering to the full right or full left lock position this cable tightens and pulls the throttle cable slightly to produce some steering throttle.
OTAS is a safety and convenience feature.
OTAS is a safety and convenience feature.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what might be the downside of removing the muffler sleeve but it might be noisier? Also it's possible there are hot spots on the surface so it's strictly a burn-safety feature?
Sometimes the plug wires are epoxied into the coil and removing them without damage is tricky. If you do this then try to obtain replacements that have the same impedance/ft, the units are in ohms/ft to keep the coils impedance matched for maximum spark energy.
Sometimes the plug wires are epoxied into the coil and removing them without damage is tricky. If you do this then try to obtain replacements that have the same impedance/ft, the units are in ohms/ft to keep the coils impedance matched for maximum spark energy.
shuka
New Member
I pull them and there was no expoxy so it was no problem but its not easy to find a place to buy wires any ideas or will i have to buy them online along with the caps.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what kind of wires you're interested in but the important feature is impedance. If you use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance/ft then you can source some new wire of the same impedance from many sources, Carol wires are good quality but so are many others. I guess you can reuse the plug connectors since they are quite good quality compared to many aftermarket ones except perhaps Bosch or NGK manufactured ones are good.
The connectors also have resistors built into them perhaps, so measure resistance and replace with equivalent to keep the original impedance matched to the coils.
The connectors also have resistors built into them perhaps, so measure resistance and replace with equivalent to keep the original impedance matched to the coils.
Danosll
Active Member
This is what I use . http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/performance/racing_wires.asp?mode=nml You can get them with caps for which ever spark plug terminal you prefer . Removable or solid terminal. Oem was solid. 90* cap .just verify the correct impedance . I've used these on my racing ski doos. With very good success . And have a pair on my challenger. Wires are plenty long enough. You will need to trim a little
shuka
New Member
How do i check impedance or ohms
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Here's why:
http://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10047/spark-plug-wire-testing
So basically, measure the resistance and divide by length to find resistance in Ohms per foot, or Ohms per inch, whatever the spec might be. I think you can measure yours to find out the type of wire you should use to replace them, both wires should measure equally based on Ohms/ft but if one measures much higher then it's defective. So you can compare them, these are resistance wire type to allow impedance matching of the coil to the spark plug and reduce electromotive noise.
http://www.autotips.com/plugwire.htm
And here's how. I expect our wires are the carbon conductor type, so the multimeter should be set on the 20k Ohm scale.
http://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-cables/diagnosis/testing-of-ignition-cables/
http://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10047/spark-plug-wire-testing
So basically, measure the resistance and divide by length to find resistance in Ohms per foot, or Ohms per inch, whatever the spec might be. I think you can measure yours to find out the type of wire you should use to replace them, both wires should measure equally based on Ohms/ft but if one measures much higher then it's defective. So you can compare them, these are resistance wire type to allow impedance matching of the coil to the spark plug and reduce electromotive noise.
http://www.autotips.com/plugwire.htm
And here's how. I expect our wires are the carbon conductor type, so the multimeter should be set on the 20k Ohm scale.
http://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-cables/diagnosis/testing-of-ignition-cables/
shuka
New Member
Thanks i will check them today and i will see what happens
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Is there a meter will record the hours based on different RPM range? Otherwise it will record the idling or no wake time too. Am I understanding this right?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Cool, the tachs with hour meters are a VERY nice feature to have.
BTW on those plug wires, there are basically two things to inspect for. The first is physical damage to the outer insulator where it might become nicked, pinched, poked, rubbed, burned, etc. and can leak or arc-over to some nearby object, thus the plug stops firing (especially important in high humidity, like during a high sea in a wet bilge during a rainstorm).
You can spray water on the wires while the engine is running to find this kind of failure, if the engine begins missing then you've found a problem. Also at night you can see some arcing over to nearby objects but don't confuse this with the normal corona glow you might see around a plug wire at night as the air around it is sometimes easily ionized.
The 2nd thing that happens is the internal conductor which is made of a fiberglass cording impregnated/sprayed or dipped with a type of rubberized carbon covering that is conductive. This carbon covering can be damaged from rough handling such as bending the wire too tightly around a radius or stretching the wire. Once the carbon layer is disturbed it can burn through, which is common at the ends of the wire. This is why occasionally if the wire is burned inside at the connector ends you can clip off the burned section and reattach the connector (usually spark plug end).
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think you are asking about a space station hour meter! In my experience marine hour meters only count the amount of time the ignition is powered on, so leave the key on and it's clicking away even though the engine may not be running.
Danosll
Active Member
The number in the part# on your cap is the impedance ie. TBO 5 EMA. 5 = 5k ohms
http://catalogues.kimpex.com/Snowmobile/2014/en-ca/files/mobile/index.html#85
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