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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
To remove impeller from impeller shaft, you're going to need the spline tool and a bench vice, torque wrench too to reinstall to 85ftlbs. Use anit-seize on the impeller threads. This could be hard to do if the impeller is seized to the impeller shaft, some heat may be necessary to soften the lock-tite, and the heat could damage the lip seal.

Remove the stainless clamps with pliers, tear 'em off. Careful not to rip boot though, then use nylon plastic tie-wraps as clamps to reinstall.
Click to expand...

Thanks. i am reading the manual for the bearing and seal removal. a special tool is mentioned again: 295000144 bearing/seal remover tool.
Do I need that too or some tricks could be used?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Don't confuse impeller shaft end play with radial play:

"Grab the shaft (it has 2 flat spots) and try to move up and down. If there is any movement greater than .05 mm, the jet pump should be rebuilt."

You might be able to freeze the jet pump and easily remove the wear ring while frozen, without removing the impeller.
Click to expand...

Sorry I didn't feel any axial play.



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Maybe a good idea to leave the impeller alone and just change the wear ring and change the oil?

The whole thing can still rebuilt after.

I still have a lot things to check around the fuel system and engine right?




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Radial play:
http://www.dynaroll.com/assets/images/catalog/2.-Radial-Play.gif

Axial Play(I call it end play) Your pump will have this if the pusher is worn out, your pusher limits axial play to zero.
http://www.dynaroll.com/assets/images/catalog/3.-Axial-Play.gif

Does it rotate smoothly with impeller hanging down(ie: when pusher is installed)? If rough, the thrust needle bearing could be damaged, or one of the roller needle bearings

Seadooforum standard answer is to replace impeller to improve every performance parameter (apparently seadoo didn't think to optimize this).
 
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Bonmotwang said:
By looking at the picture of my impeller, do you think I need to order a new one?
Click to expand...

Not sure if you want a canned seadooforum answer or my answer, which is to try dressing dings on leading edges using a rotary hand grinder stone, like an electric Dremel tool with largest practical stone(to obtain the advantage of a large(est) radius).

How do the leading edges of the pump housing hub vanes look inside, are they bent over at all? How about the trailing edges of the impeller, are they bent forward (as if a rock was briefly caught between trailing edge of impeller blade and leading edge of housing vane)?
 
Bonmotwang said:
Maybe a good idea to leave the impeller alone and just change the wear ring and change the oil?

The whole thing can still rebuilt after.

I still have a lot things to check around the fuel system and engine right?




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Click to expand...

If you can remove the wear ring without removing the impeller, perhaps freezing the pump will help. You might consider pressure leak checking the bearing housing to confirm lip seal isn't leaking.

Probably the fuel system will need cleaning, unless it's already been done recently. It will be questionable if the gray Tempo fuel lines are still on the carbs, those gray fuel lines are bad news for marine engine owners b/c they decay and corrode internally.

If the previous owner rebuilt the carbs and cleaned the fuel system (or kept it clean), you might get by with just changing the fuel lines but the carbs still need to be removed to accomplish that, so may as well rebuild them IMO.

You will need to remove the rave valves and clean them, or at least remove the plastic covers and make sure they move up and down smoothly and without sticking and hanging up. My rave valves had never been cleaned, and thus were caked with carbon, so they were difficult to remove. I had to disassemble/remove the housings and pour some 2 stroke oil over the valve blades, let them soak overnight, and then carefully work them up and down till I could finally get them out to clean them.

Rave valves should be removed and cleaned at least once per season (I remove them as an assembly for bench cleaning if they're not stuck in there). XPS-2 synthetic oil leaves a sticky gum on them, cheaper 2 stroke TC-W3 oils leave gritty carbon deposits(mine were this way, caked with gritty carbon before I removed and cleaned them then switched to XPS-2 synthetic).
 
Bonmotwang said:
They are not straight, which surprised me a little at my first look. I think it is designed to minimize the flow resistance.


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Click to expand...

They are normally curved, but if a rock goes through the pump, they may be broken or bent, and no longer symmetrical. If they are symetrical and not broken or chipped with pieces missing larger then 1/2 the size of a dime, then they are probably okay.

My pump has one vane slightly damaged, so I will file it some with a flat file to dress it up. Also, the trailing edge of one impeller blade is bent slightly forward, I will straighten it.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Maximum permissible radial play of impeller shaft is 0.05mm (0.002") This isn't pull/push, it's side to side
Click to expand...

I did the test again. This time I was holding the impeller with left hand and the 2 flat surface with my right hand and wiggling. I can hear little "clicking" sound.
So I guess the play is bigger than 0.002".

The problem is I don't have the proper tools right now to rebuild the whole thing. Maybe wait for another season?


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Bonmotwang said:
I did the test again. This time I was holding the impeller with left hand and the 2 flat surface with my right hand and wiggling. I can hear little "clicking" sound.
So I guess the play is bigger than 0.002".

The problem is I don't have the proper tools right now to rebuild the whole thing. Maybe wait for another season?


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Click to expand...

Yeah, you also have the option of sending the pump out for rebuild.

It all depends on those bearings, if they're trashed then a new ring gets wiped out on the first hole shot.

It's up to you to determine if the bearings are shot! :)

I have a substantial investment in special tools, spanners, and bearing pressers, probably near $10k......., it ain't cheap! Take it to a machine shop?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yeah, you also have the option of sending the pump out for rebuild.

It all depends on those bearings, if they're trashed then a new ring gets wiped out on the first hole shot.

It's up to you to determine if the bearings are shot! :)

I have a substantial investment in special tools, spanners, and bearing pressers, probably near $10k......., it ain't cheap! Take it to a machine shop?
Click to expand...

Maybe after I went through more things, I will just send the pump over to the guy with $9.9K worth of tools in US. LoL



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How many special tools do I need for rebuild the pump. My buddy has a machine shop but not locally.
The spline insert tool I need to buy. $15 on eBay. Saw one asking for &100.
But the bearing / seal pusher or remover could be turned out easily using a lathe if I have the dimensions.



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Bonmotwang said:
Maybe after I went through more things, I will just send the pump over to the guy with $9.9K worth of tools in US. LoL



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Click to expand...

That's funny, b/c I don't have any of the seadoo tools yet, LOL! We don't work on seadoos at our shop. impros.com rebuilds the pumps though, so does SBT. I bet you could get yours done up there.
 
Bonmotwang said:
How many special tools do I need for rebuild the pump. My buddy has a machine shop but not locally.
The spline insert tool I need to buy. $15 on eBay. Saw one asking for &100.
But the bearing / seal pusher or remover could be turned out easily using a lathe if I have the dimensions.



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Click to expand...

I bet your machine shop has everything needed except maybe for the spline tool, but they may even have that too, it's hard to say a machine shop doesn't have something, they usually have more than you might think.

The bearing and seal drivers are nothing for them, they do that stuff all day long everyday. They will just measure the position of the originals before pushing them out then push the new ones back in.

But if your bearings are shot then the impeller shaft might be too, and you won't know for sure until the impeller is taken off, so you could buy the spline tool and remove the impeller yourself (if you have a bench vice) to get a look at the impeller shaft then decide if you need a new one. You'll probably need a propane plumbing torch too, to soften the lok-tite.
 
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Bonmotwang said:
How many special tools do I need for rebuild the pump. My buddy has a machine shop but not locally.
The spline insert tool I need to buy. $15 on eBay. Saw one asking for &100.
But the bearing / seal pusher or remover could be turned out easily using a lathe if I have the dimensions.
Click to expand...

Just contact [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] for the tool.
 
It might even be possible to use a long threaded rod along with assorted nuts, washers, and appropriately sized hex sockets to press the old and new bearings in/out. I used to do it this way and sometimes still do, if I don't have access to the proper fixtures. Measure the original positions first, of course.

But I can't suggest attempting this hokey method on seadooforum without receiving a lashing with the cat-o-nine tails.
 
USAF_Pride said:
Just contact [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] for the tool.
Click to expand...

$60 is not bad. I will order one I think.

To to confirm my shipping list for the tools
(I have the basic tools in my work shop, I play RC helicopters, 30 size monster trucks, Desktop CNC, etc ...)
- Spline insert nut. ($15 on ebay)
- Bearing Press Tools ($60 from Dr. Honda) 0000072_300.jpeg
- Torque wrench ($25 from CT) http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Wrenches/SpecialtyWrenches/PRD~0588660P/Beam+Type+Torque+Wrench%2C+1%2B2-in.jsp?locale=en

For the torque wrench, do I get 1/2 or 3/8?

Thanks
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
It might even be possible to use a long threaded rod along with assorted nuts, washers, and appropriately sized hex sockets to press the old and new bearings in/out. I used to do it this way and sometimes still do, if I don't have access to the proper fixtures. Measure the original positions first, of course.

But I can't suggest attempting this hokey method on seadooforum without receiving a lashing with the cat-o-nine tails.
Click to expand...

I think for $60, I won't put you under something with cat-o-nine tails.
 
1/2" torque wrench will get you into 85 ftlbs range, 3/8" doesn't reach that high usually. 3/4" might be too high, I think, but 3/4" is necessary for FWD wheel bearings torque ~250 ftlbs.
 
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