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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
You're moving right along! :) To remove driveshaft, it would probably be easier to remount the pump temporarily because the stainless steel seal carrier ring that seals against the carbon seal must be pushed aftward against the pump in order to remove it's retaining c-clip from it's groove in the drive shaft. The pump will hold the shaft and help to keep the shaft from sliding aftward as you push the stainless ring to reveal the c-clip.

c-clip to remove from groove in drive shaft is item #9 in this drawing, the SS seal carrier ring you need to push aftward to expose the c-clip is item #8, carbon seal is #14

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...46&b=12&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---DRIVESHAFT

You don't need the blue drive shaft protector, if it breaks and comes apart it will jam up inside the impeller housing and trash the wear ring. Mine is already broken off and I'm not going to replace it when I rebuild my pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will try this procedure tonight. By looking at the drawing, when I take out the drive shaft are part #3 all the way to #10 and #14 going to just fall off?
 
Bonmotwang said:
Thanks. I will try this procedure tonight. By looking at the drawing, when I take out the drive shaft are part #3 all the way to #10 and #14 going to just fall off?
Click to expand...

#10 and 14 are attached to the hull, specifically the thru-hull fitting which is epoxied to the hull. I think you will need #10, 14, and 12(x2) new parts, #14 may not be worn out see if inside diameter is egg shaped, if #14 and #10 are worn then pump will suck air from inside hull and cause impeller ventilation/slipping. #8 will fall out as you remove the drive shaft. #10 acts like a spring and can lose tension.

I plan to replace these during my pump rebuild: #10, 14, 12(x2)
 
I see you have some chipped gel-coat around the hull/pump interface. Same as mine, from gravel pieces being slung around by impeller. I used white epoxy appliance paint to water-seal the exposed fiberglass fibers and might fill in the gouges using marine tex epoxy
 
Your impeller is not the same as mine! My impeller has curved leading edges, not straight ones like yours. I wonder if mine has been replaced? Is your pump a bronze vane or plastic vane type?

I want to know the number on your impeller hub. I don't know the number on mine, I have not yet taken the impeller off the impeller shaft.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Your impeller is not the same as mine! My impeller has curved leading edges, not straight ones like yours. I wonder if mine has been replaced? Is your pump a bronze vane or plastic vane type?

I want to know the number on your impeller hub. I don't know the number on mine, I have not yet taken the impeller off the impeller shaft.
Click to expand...

How to take off the impeller? The manual says I need a removal tool to do it.


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I am trying to take off the cone first.
125.jpg



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I need to take it back. I think the water was not in the bearing chamber. It was sitting in the hollow area between the outer cone and inner cone, with some sand there.
It makes me feel better.


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I took out The pusher and spring inside the cone. The pump shaft is touching the pusher, so it was over heated. I guess that it was designed that way?
132.jpg




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Is there radial play in the impeller shaft bearings? If you plan to remove the impeller from it's shaft then an impeller spline tool is necessary, bench vice, and a torque wrench to reinstall it to specified torque of 85 ftlbs.

You could reinstall the cone and pressurize the bearing housing 10psi for 10 minutes to see if there are leaks. I guess if I removed the impeller I'd consider replacing the impeller shaft lip seal and the bearings if they felt worn(radial play of impeller shaft), once apart then inspect the x2 needle bearing inner race locations on the impeller shaft for wear, the tolerance measurement is specified in the service manual.

For cleaning, use special BRP seadoo impeller bearing oil solvent, whatever that is, to avoid any arguments on seadooforum, I guess. I use diesel fuel for jobs like that, or acetone. Acetone is great at absorbing water. Don't spin the bearings if completely dry of lube after washing out with acetone, blow out with compressed air if you have it.

I wouldn't use superclean, but maybe that's the seadooform secret sauce for all cleaning / grease removal?

Your drive shaft rubber bumper #12 still looks good.
Your spring loaded impeller shaft anti-rattle pusher is different than mine.
 
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I tried to move the ss seal carrier. But it is kind of "stuck". Is it normal? I may need a tool to pry it a little?


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Bonmotwang said:
I tried to move the ss seal carrier. But it is kind of "stuck". Is it normal? I may need a tool to pry it a little?


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Click to expand...

Mine was stuck at first, I used an open end wrench slipped over it then tapped on the wrench to break it loose. Shoot some penetrating oil on the drive shaft to help loosen things up, I keep a bottle of 2 stroke oil in my bilge, so I put a few drops of that on.

I wanted to make sure I could move my ring, so I did this.

If you warp the ring it will be ruined, so be gentle.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Mine was stuck at first, I used an open end wrench slipped over it then tapped on the wrench to break it loose. Shoot some penetrating oil on the drive shaft to help loosen things up, I keep a bottle of 2 stroke oil in my bilge, so I put a few drops of that on.

I wanted to make sure I could move my ring, so I did this.
Click to expand...

Can I use WD40?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Is there radial play in the impeller shaft bearings?
Click to expand...
Yes, I tried to pull and push, it has about 0.040" play, at least I can hear metal to metal hitting sound on both direction.

If you plan to remove the impeller from it's shaft then an impeller spline tool is necessary, bench vice, and a torque wrench to reinstall it to specified torque of 85 ftlbs.
Click to expand...
I guess I have no choice if I need to replace the wear ring right? As you can see in my picture, the wear ring is ripped badly.

You could reinstall the cone and pressurize the bearing housing 10psi for 10 minutes to see if there are leaks.
Click to expand...
To do this I guess I need a fitting to my air compressor to match the fill plug?

I guess if I removed the impeller I'd consider replacing the impeller shaft lip seal and the bearings if they felt worn(radial play of impeller shaft), once apart then inspect the x2 needle bearing inner race locations on the impeller shaft for wear, the tolerance measurement is specified in the service manual.
Click to expand...
All the "work" is happening here. You are right, if there is a play, it means either the thrust washer or the thrust bearing is "thin". I will also check the needle bearings too. I hope I can find reasonable prices for those parts :-D

For cleaning, use special BRP seadoo impeller bearing oil solvent, whatever that is, to avoid any arguments on seadooforum, I guess. I use diesel fuel for jobs like that, or acetone. Acetone is great at absorbing water. Don't spin the bearings if completely dry of lube after washing out with acetone, blow out with compressed air if you have it.
Click to expand...
I should be able to get anything similar from CT.

I wouldn't use superclean, but maybe that's the seadooform secret sauce for all cleaning / grease removal?
Click to expand...
I will let somebody else to report. LoL
 
Maximum permissible radial play of impeller shaft is 0.05mm (0.002") This isn't pull/push, it's side to side play. There will be much more pull/push(end play) and it's normal I think, I don't think there's any spec on that except maybe measure thrust washer thickness.

You might need a new pusher if it's not going to take out the end play, lack of oil will cause it to melt, I think

You might want to pressure leak check, a 30psi gauge and "T" fitting for a manifold, bicycle pump or other air source. The fitting size is 1/8" NPT(nominal pipe thread).

I wouldn't go nuts trying to clean it out, just use compressed air if you have it and blow it out. But if you're taking it apart to replace the bearings then you'll be able to pass a cloth/rag through and clean it. Measure where the bearings are positioned before removing them, so you can locate the new ones in the same position. You need an electric parts washing station and a bearing arbor press! :)
 
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Special tools

To remove the shaft I may have to buy a spline insert.
But to remove the clamps on the rubber boot at the engine side, do I need to buy the two different pliers just for that?
 
Bonmotwang said:
To remove the shaft I may have to buy a spline insert.
But to remove the clamps on the rubber boot at the engine side, do I need to buy the two different pliers just for that?
Click to expand...

To remove impeller from impeller shaft, you're going to need the spline tool and a bench vice, torque wrench too to reinstall to 85ftlbs. Use anit-seize on the impeller threads. This could be hard to do if the impeller is seized to the impeller shaft, some heat may be necessary to soften the lock-tite, and the heat could damage the lip seal.

Remove the stainless clamps with pliers, tear 'em off. Careful not to rip boot though, then use nylon plastic tie-wraps as clamps to reinstall.
 
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Don't confuse impeller shaft end play with radial play:

"Grab the shaft (it has 2 flat spots) and try to move up and down. If there is any movement greater than .05 mm, the jet pump should be rebuilt."

You might be able to freeze the jet pump and easily remove the wear ring while frozen, without removing the impeller.
 
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