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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Just came cross this pump whole assembly.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-COMPLETE...raft_Parts&hash=item2c73fe1853&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

If comparing to my shipping list. in this $374.95.
Really there is only $90 stuff needs to be changed, which is the wear ring and the pump rebuild kit. Unless you got a very very bad shape pump.

I kinda think that might be a good option, considering it includes a new impeller shaft. Just install an impeller and it's ready to go, looks like. I'd like to try the plastic vane pump, it's supposed to have a better hole shot, which would help me for single slalom skiing, I'd like to improve my sportster's hole shot for this reason. Could be I have the wrong impeller, since it's been changed...
 
Right, I won't know if it's the wrong impeller for sure until I get a look at the number and find out what the impeller pitch is.

BTW, I plan on replacing the two oil lines that carry oil from the injection pump to the two intake manifold ports, items #20 & #21 in this drawing:

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=10&Action=O

I have some 3/32"ID Tygon F-4040-A rubber tubing for this, the originals still feel okay but they're known to rot over time so I think I'll replace them to avoid any issues. 3mm is the OEM size, I think, so maybe I can find the correct metric tubing before I do this.
 
Right, I won't know if it's the wrong impeller for sure until I get a look at the number and find out what the impeller pitch is.

BTW, I plan on replacing the two oil lines that carry oil from the injection pump to the two intake manifold ports, items #20 & #21 in this drawing:

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=10&Action=O

I have some 3/32"ID Tygon F-4040-A rubber tubing for this, the originals still feel okay but they're known to rot over time so I think I'll replace them to avoid any issues. 3mm is the OEM size, I think, so maybe I can find the correct metric tubing before I do this.

Talking about pipes. What is the part no for those "gray" pipes you were talking about that I need to replace?
While waiting for the pump parts, I should get the pipes ordered for the fuel system.
The #21 and #20 is only $2.49/foot on seadoowarehouse.
 
It's probably that walmart quicksilver oil, they're blue. Okay to use in a non-rave motor, but I'd go synthetic here.
 
Fuel Lines

Ok. I am going to order some fuel lines to replace the old ones.

According to the manual, the sizes I will need is 6mm and 5/16", or 1/4" and 8mm.
So 6mm and 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16".

Can anybody tell me that how much do I need for each one?

Are all the clamps reusable?

Didn't find anything on ebay like "fuel system replacement kit"..
 
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Ok. I am going to order some fuel lines to replace the old ones.

According to the manual, the sizes I will need is 6mm and 5/16", or 1/4" and 8mm.
So 6mm and 8mm or 1/4" or 5/16".

Can anybody tell me that how much do I need for each one?

Are all the clamps reusable?

Didn't find anything on ebay like "fuel system replacement kit"..

Right, those are the sizes of fuel line, it's a tubing that's got a nylon mesh in the laminated layer, not Tygon F-4040-A. It should be USCG A1 marine fuel line ideally but automotive fuel line from CT should be acceptable, IMO, automotive fuel line may not pass an marine inspection though, so if you plan on purchasing liability insurance it may become an issue.

The gray line on mine was all 1/4", the rest (5/16") was higher quality black line, so I only replaced the 1/4" lines and flushed everything well.

So, I think I used about 1 meter of 1/4", but you're going to need quite a bit more than that when you replace all the 5/16", I'd guess 4~5 meters of 5/16" is enuff.

I didn't reuse the Oteiker clamps, I used small gear type hose clamps on all of it as I went, although I almost used Herbie Clips instead. I had the gear clamps already on hand at home so that's what went on there, CT will have them.

Be careful when handling/removing the fuel lines ffrom the plastic nipples, the nipples can be brittle, so don't place sideways force on them or they'll snap off, hold the fitting while tightening the clamps so they don't break and don't tighten so much the nipples are crushed.

The fuel reserve switch valves are known to fail and start allowing air to leak inward or clog with debris, usually people just replace them, mine works fine still so I haven't touched it ecept to blow it out in all positions to be sure it flows well, and then I pressurized each section to make sure there were no leaks, such at the water separator cup or the fuel selector knob shaft, for instance..
 
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It's probably that walmart quicksilver oil, they're blue. Okay to use in a non-rave motor, but I'd go synthetic here.

Definitely synthetic low ash, absolutely! But fog with mineral. I just use the BRP XPS-II, but I think Quicksilver also has an full synthetic low ash?

I also use the BRP stuff in my air cooled and antique outboards, 16:1 ratio in the antiques b/c they don't have roller/needle bearings, just bushings and babbitt coated inserts.
 
Right, those are the sizes of fuel line, it's a tubing that's got a nylon mesh in the laminated layer, not Tygon F-4040-A. It should be USCG A1 marine fuel line ideally but automotive fuel line from CT should be acceptable, IMO, automotive fuel line may not pass an marine inspection though, so if you plan on purchasing liability insurance it may become an issue.

The gray line on mine was all 1/4", the rest (5/16") was higher quality black line, so I only replaced the 1/4" lines and flushed everything well.

So, I think I used about 1 meter of 1/4", but you're going to need quite a bit more than that when you replace all the 5/16", I'd guess 4~5 meters of 5/16" is enuff.

I didn't reuse the Oteiker clamps, I used small gear type hose clamps on all of it as I went, although I almost used Herbie Clips instead. I had the gear clamps already on hand at home so that's what went on there, CT will have them.

Be careful when handling/removing the fuel lines ffrom the plastic nipples, the nipples can be brittle, so don't place sideways force on them or they'll snap off, hold the fitting while tightening the clamps so they don't break and don't tighten so much the nipples are crushed.

The fuel reserve switch valves are known to fail and start allowing air to leak inward or clog with debris, usually people just replace them, mine works fine still so I haven't touched it ecept to blow it out in all positions to be sure it flows well, and then I pressurized each section to make sure there were no leaks, such at the water separator cup or the fuel selector knob shaft, for instance..

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=8&c=0&d=-FUEL-SYSTEM

In this drawing 13, 39, 69 are 6mm (1/4") pipe. did you replaced those including the short 39's? To avoid taking the pipe on and off multiple time, do I need to do other clean before replacing the pipes?

What did you mean "flush" the fuel lines? take them off and flush them with water through them?
 
Trying to take off the air box to have a better look at the gray lines. Unhooked the clip, but something is still catching.
153.jpg



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Gray lines. Some pictures to show:
155.jpg
156.jpg


The following clamped the connector is loose. I can turn the pipe freely, but not falling off.
According to the manual, it is the point #69 into a T on one of the carbs.
157.jpg



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http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=8&c=0&d=-FUEL-SYSTEM

In this drawing 13, 39, 69 are 6mm (1/4") pipe. did you replaced those including the short 39's? To avoid taking the pipe on and off multiple time, do I need to do other clean before replacing the pipes?

What did you mean "flush" the fuel lines? take them off and flush them with water through them?

I replaced #39 and #69, gray Tempo fuel line, I don't believe #13 is gray Tempo, in my memory, I didn't replace this one.
In order to replace these gray fuel lines you must remove the carburetors, so it's a good time to disassemble them and clean the years of gum from tiny passages and small fuel filters. I also replaced the metering needle/seat (orifice size 2.0), keep the original metering springs and reuse them, don't change to the wrong ones (there are 4 different sizes).

I reverse direction flushed the fuel lines and reserve switch valve using compressed air and clean fuel, to blow out any trash by disconnecting them from the fuel tank and engine and then blew through backwards, rotate valve to all positions and check for restrictions (air should move easily through). Plug fuel tank end and pressure check from engine end to a few psi for a couple minutes to be sure there are no leaks, especially at the switch valve shaft.

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
 
I replaced #39 and #69, gray Tempo fuel line, I don't believe #13 is gray Tempo, in my memory, I didn't replace this one.
In order to replace these gray fuel lines you must remove the carburetors, so it's a good time to disassemble them and clean the years of gum from tiny passages and small fuel filters. I also replaced the metering needle/seat (orifice size 2.0), keep the original metering springs and reuse them, don't change to the wrong ones (there are 4 different sizes).

I reverse direction flushed the fuel lines and reserve switch valve using compressed air and clean fuel, to blow out any trash by disconnecting them from the fuel tank and engine and then blew through backwards, rotate valve to all positions and check for restrictions (air should move easily through). Plug fuel tank end and pressure check from engine end to a few psi for a couple minutes to be sure there are no leaks, especially at the switch valve shaft.

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf

Looks like a nice two tasks after the jet pump rebuild: Clean the carbs and replace #69 and #39's.
Can I leave the carbs two big holes open like that? Maybe better to put the air silencer back :-)
 
Gray lines.
The following clamped the connector is loose. I can turn the pipe freely, but not falling off.
According to the manual, it is the point #69 into a T on one of the carbs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Twist and pull the loose gray one, it will come off(plastic nipple fitting, be gentle). Also, remove gray one from fuel pump pulse and black fuel pump supply before removing carburetors(4 allen cap screw carb mounting bolts). before unbolting carbs, disconnect choke cable and throttle cable, also on rear carb break loose the two phillips screws (item #27 of drawing) using #3 phillips bit of good quality(not worn out). Finally, remove the orange o-rings to access carb mounting bolts.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=6&Action=O

Lightly hand re-tighten the two phillips screws (item #27) before removing carbs
 
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Just curious about the loose fitting on #69 pipe. This is the fuel coming into the engine, right?
Is it going to affect the performance a lot, because of the air leaking in?
 
Just curious about the loose fitting on #69 pipe. This is the fuel coming into the engine, right?
Is it going to affect the performance a lot, because of the air leaking in?

This one is fuel return to tank, the black 5/16" is fuel supply from water separator. It can rotate, pull and twist it will come off nipple but shouldn't leak, if it leaks, fuel will drip b/c it's under a slight pressure for return to tank.
 
I noticed that some seadoo and yamaha carb rebuild kit are same.
but does the carb have kind of standard??

You need Super BN, SBN 46i The "i" is important b/c the fuel pump on MAG carb is upgraded on "i" and uses new style diaphragm/gaskets

I think you don't need any carb parts except for needle/seat (size 2.0)

Mt engine had a flat lean bog in mid throttle, so after cleaning carbs it was still there I increased pilot jet size to #80 two sizes from original #75, I think this motor likes #77.5 better so I purchased them and will install them next time.
 
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