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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
- Thread starter Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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I found a US plate number on a piece of black plastic on the back of the boat.
So it might have been in the salt water for a while?
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Bonmotwang
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Some thoughts here:
From what I have learned in the last a few days. The drive shaft is held by the engine output at one end and the pump housing at the other end.
I would think the alignment is very critical if trying to have the impeller sitting nicely and closely in the wearing ring.
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From what I have learned in the last a few days. The drive shaft is held by the engine output at one end and the pump housing at the other end.
I would think the alignment is very critical if trying to have the impeller sitting nicely and closely in the wearing ring.
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FinnExplorer
Active Member
Impeller is bolted to impeller shaft in pump housing. Alignment is important for not to strip your driveshaft from splines I think.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Also need to fine tune the alignment to have the impeller in the dead centre of the wear ring, right ?
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FinnExplorer
Active Member
Well, i'm no expert by any means here, but I would think that if your impeller shaft isn't bent the impeller should be pretty centered in wear ring. Of course the wear ring and pump housing must be ok. Maybe if your engine alignment would be way out of bounds the driveshaft could bend the whole impeller and pump assembly in wrong position. But even then i'd think you'd first lose shaft splines from one or both ends of the shaft 
But someone with more info will correct me soon
But someone with more info will correct me soon
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I see. I guess the connection between the drive shaft and the engine output is "soft" connection then.Well, i'm no expert by any means here, but I would think that if your impeller shaft isn't bent the impeller should be pretty centered in wear ring. Of course the wear ring and pump housing must be ok. Maybe if your engine alignment would be way out of bounds the driveshaft could bend the whole impeller and pump assembly in wrong position. But even then i'd think you'd first lose shaft splines from one or both ends of the shaft
I am reading the manual trying to figure it out :-D
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Yes, both the speedo sensor and 80% throttle cable ignition advance sensor use SS41 Hall effect IC's, the speedo sensor has two internal components, a Hall effect IC and a 5.6V zener, it's a 2-wire pull-down circuit which pulls the 12v supplied through a dropping resistor in the speedo gauge. This is how Seadoo devised a two-conductor circuit for the speed sensor.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?60927-speedometer-sensor-test&p=337461#post337461
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?60927-speedometer-sensor-test&p=337461#post337461
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, there are three shafts, but alignment is still important to preserve and reduce wear on the shaft splines!
Crankshaft
Drive Shaft
Impeller Shaft
This is why I suggested you should grease your PTO splines.
Concerning the bearing cone, it's possible to fill the bearing hub oil before installing the pump as the factory did, so yours was "bench filled", I believe. Could be the factory fill?
Your speedo sensor has the same "dent" on it from the reverse bucket bracket as mine does.
I would look for a replacement nozzle, there seems to be a good amount of corrosion around the lower pivot. I adjusted mine to point upwards, to eliminate an irritating porpoising effect. Unfortunately there are no zincs, a clue that seadoo's are not designed for saltwater.
LOL, lots of anti-seize haters in this world, too funny!
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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FinnExplorer
Active Member
Pump should slide off if previous mechanic put the neoprene seal between pump and hull. Sometimes some people put rtv or other sticky stuff to seal the pump and it makes it pretty hard to take it off.
For used parts, I'd say Ebay is your friend...
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Anybody knows if the 2004 will fit the 2001 model?
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USAF_Pride
Member
Your best bet is to find the part number for your boat and see if the part number is the same for the 2004 one you are looking at.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Bonmotwang
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I found a 2004 one on ebay. about $50 for the parts and $40 to ship to Canada.
seadoowarehouse.com is good site to verify the part numbers. 2004 and 2000 used the same part number.
The shipping cost doesn't make a lot of sense. I will contact the seller to see if they can use my company account for shipping.
Bonmotwang
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Smart design to have 2 wire device instead of 3 wires.
Bonmotwang
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I think I will take a pass on replace the nozzle for now.
I will go ahead to do other things first.
Bonmotwang
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That is very nice. You must really like driving the boat. Me too :-D
Beside that I like to get my hands oily.
I guess I didn't have 10 grand to have anything close to perfect. Lol.
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Bonmotwang
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I just took the pump off. Used some WD40 to get off the nuts. They were very very tight.
After that, I just wiggled a little and slide the pump out. Better than I expected.
The wear ring is really in bad shape.
Also the rubber ring behind the pump housing is broken too. Couldn't figure out how this rubber ring got broken??caught by the impeller somehow??
There is a blue tube around The drive shaft is split too. The blue tube feels like very hard plastic.
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After that, I just wiggled a little and slide the pump out. Better than I expected.
The wear ring is really in bad shape.
Also the rubber ring behind the pump housing is broken too. Couldn't figure out how this rubber ring got broken??caught by the impeller somehow??
There is a blue tube around The drive shaft is split too. The blue tube feels like very hard plastic.
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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Bought the nozzle + venturi and the ring
Yahooie ..................
The nozzle+venturi assembly was taken off from a 2004 model. It looks prettier than mine. I hope it actually is. LoL
I am using the Kinek service. So the unreasonable cross border shipping cost is not an issues anymore.
Yahooie ..................
The nozzle+venturi assembly was taken off from a 2004 model. It looks prettier than mine. I hope it actually is. LoL
I am using the Kinek service. So the unreasonable cross border shipping cost is not an issues anymore.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You're moving right along! 
To remove driveshaft, it would probably be easier to remount the pump temporarily because the stainless steel seal carrier ring that seals against the carbon seal must be pushed aftward against the pump in order to remove it's retaining c-clip from it's groove in the drive shaft. The pump will hold the shaft and help to keep the shaft from sliding aftward as you push the stainless ring to reveal the c-clip.
c-clip to remove from groove in drive shaft is item #9 in this drawing, the SS seal carrier ring you need to push aftward to expose the c-clip is item #8, carbon seal is #14
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...46&b=12&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---DRIVESHAFT
You don't need the blue drive shaft protector, if it breaks and comes apart it will jam up inside the impeller housing and trash the wear ring. Mine is already broken off and I'm not going to replace it when I rebuild my pump.
You may need drive shaft parts #10, 14, and 12(x2)
To remove driveshaft, it would probably be easier to remount the pump temporarily because the stainless steel seal carrier ring that seals against the carbon seal must be pushed aftward against the pump in order to remove it's retaining c-clip from it's groove in the drive shaft. The pump will hold the shaft and help to keep the shaft from sliding aftward as you push the stainless ring to reveal the c-clip.c-clip to remove from groove in drive shaft is item #9 in this drawing, the SS seal carrier ring you need to push aftward to expose the c-clip is item #8, carbon seal is #14
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...46&b=12&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---DRIVESHAFT
You don't need the blue drive shaft protector, if it breaks and comes apart it will jam up inside the impeller housing and trash the wear ring. Mine is already broken off and I'm not going to replace it when I rebuild my pump.
You may need drive shaft parts #10, 14, and 12(x2)
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