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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I don't know where you found that photo, but it doesn't look anything like my boat either. My jet pump has no divider in the steering nozzle, I'm glad it doesn't.

BTW while we're on the subject of steering, remember that a jet boat doesn't have a rudder, so it won't steer if the engine isn't running. I haven't seen any nozzle rudders on a seadoo jet pump.
Click to expand...

I got the picture from 2001 seadoo sportster LE shop manual.
BTW as you have seen in my previous pictures for the nozzle, it is very rough and dirty. Do I need to do anything about it immediately?

Talking about the steering and rudder, I thought the divider is actually a rudder when boat is moving after the engine turns off when docking. :-)
 
Bonmotwang said:
I got the picture from 2001 seadoo sportster LE shop manual.
BTW as you have seen in my previous pictures for the nozzle, it is very rough and dirty. Do I need to do anything about it immediately?

Talking about the steering and rudder, I thought the divider is actually a rudder when boat is moving after the engine turns off when docking. :-)
Click to expand...

Okay. I haven't seen a 2001 sportster LE shop manual published by the BRP/seadoo factory, didn't know there was one, LOL! :) That photo isn't of a single screw boat like ours, looks like a twin screw boat. If it's an aftermarket manual I wouldn't be surprised at seeing photos anything, even a helicopter blades.

Yeah, I noticed your pump area looked pretty grimy for some reason but that doesn't hurt anything necessarily. About the only thing you might consider doing soon is changing the impeller shaft bearing oil, not sure how the impeller and wear ring look like. Hopefully your primary nozzle screws/bolt threads aren't corroded in their threads.

I reassemble mine using anti-seize on the bolt threads they are in bronze, my pump is bronze, but your screws are probably in inserts molded in the plastic pump if it's plastic like the spec sheet says it is. In that case, I wouldn't use lock-tite on the screws b/c the threaded inserts are liable to spin in the plastic the next time it's disassembled, I'd use anti-seize compound instead, in that case.

I use anti-seize on about everything that's under water, and my boss hates that, he says it won't help keep stuff from seizing, LOL! But he's used to working on saltwater stuff, I won't work on most stuff that's been in salt water, if I can help it.

I stay away from stuff that's been living in salt water if it looks like it's corroded, it's usually worse than it looks.

That divider shown won't do anything if the engine isn't running, it might help steering a little bit when the engine is running. Some jet pumps have an optional rudder hanging off the bottom of the steering nozzle. Back a few decades ago some authorities were trying to make jet pump nozzle rudders mandatory, but for some reason the effort didn't go anywhere.

I once ran my boat up 20ft up on shore when my engine abruptly quit while I was making a turn in my old jet boat, it was a stupid move and I wasn't expecting my motor might quit. You have to allow for this possibility when maneuvering a jet boat and I learned my lesson, thankfully nobody was hurt.
 
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hmmm, antisieze?

most sealers would be better, ie: ARP, Permatex HP sealer, bc they have a bit of loctite and thread sealing compounds to prevent any vibration from working the fastener loose. I have not spun an insert out of a plastic pump yet using 242 Blue loctite. I also don`t believe cranking down the 5mm bolts to 35 in lbs. it will mash the mounting tabs on the cone for sure. a good hand tightening will do.

also 518 is awesome for the cone to pump, anerobic flange sealant.
 
Pale Rider said:
hmmm, antisieze?

most sealers would be better, ie: ARP, Permatex HP sealer, bc they have a bit of loctite and thread sealing compounds to prevent any vibration from working the fastener loose. I have not spun an insert out of a plastic pump yet using 242 Blue loctite. I also don`t believe cranking down the 5mm bolts to 35 in lbs. it will mash the mounting tabs on the cone for sure. a good hand tightening will do.

also 518 is awesome for the cone to pump, anerobic flange sealant.
Click to expand...

Yep, anti-seize! Assembled/installed the carbs with it and the rave mount screw threads as well, nearly everything I do where the stainless screw is in aluminum or even bronze threads. In my previous life the solution was silver plated stainless fasteners.

Just the o-ring by itself has worked just fine for sealing the pump cone, passed the pressure and vacuum leak checks with flying colors.

Someday my boat will probably hit a wake and just pop apart! :)
 
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I have the same boat but a 2003 model, bought it with a bad pump and fixed it over the summer, just took it out today for the first time (successfully) and it ran great! Remember, if you have the same service manual I have it covers ALL the products that year, boats and skis so it may have some information that doesn't apply to your boat. All in all these boats are easy to work on with the advice you can get here.

~B~
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Okay. I haven't seen a 2001 sportster LE shop manual published by the BRP/seadoo factory, didn't know there was one, LOL! :)
Click to expand...

There is no sportster shop manual for 2000 and 2001.

The official document for the 2001 sportster is the 1999 Shop manual and 2000 Supplement.

The picture was from the 1999 shop manual. It may exist on the 1999 model which has a small engine.

The manuals are very helpful.
 
ben6119 said:
I have the same boat but a 2003 model, bought it with a bad pump and fixed it over the summer, just took it out today for the first time (successfully) and it ran great! Remember, if you have the same service manual I have it covers ALL the products that year, boats and skis so it may have some information that doesn't apply to your boat. All in all these boats are easy to work on with the advice you can get here.

~B~
Click to expand...

The one I am using is the 1999 shop manual plus the 2000 supplement which mostly is for the 947 engine change.
 
OP, if you don`t want to spring for the more expensive SeaDoo oil, a good synthetic gear oil will do.
Amsoil severe gear 75W90
Redline 75W90
Mobil 1 75W90

on the seadoo and yamaha pump models that required grease for lube, we cleaned them out and made a mix/slurry of Amsoil synthetic grease and Amsoil Severe gear oil and used that in the modified double and triple bearing pumps and stock pumps as well.

The key is to check the jet pump periodically or on a schedule maintenance. Once a year is not enough, bc anything can kill the seal and water intrusion will destroy the bearings/hub.
 
Pale Rider said:
OP, if you don`t want to spring for the more expensive SeaDoo oil, a good synthetic gear oil will do.
Amsoil severe gear 75W90
Redline 75W90
Mobil 1 75W90

on the seadoo and yamaha pump models that required grease for lube, we cleaned them out and made a mix/slurry of Amsoil synthetic grease and Amsoil Severe gear oil and used that in the modified double and triple bearing pumps and stock pumps as well.

The key is to check the jet pump periodically or on a schedule maintenance. Once a year is not enough, bc anything can kill the seal and water intrusion will destroy the bearings/hub.
Click to expand...

I think this maybe a good starting point for me to start inspection and getting into the whole system. Still a little worried about touching those pipes in the fuel system and around the engine.

One more thing: winter is coming. I am planning to spend some time on this machine during the long winter time. Is there anything I need to do before take part something? The machine is kind of fully functional.
 
Pump Oil Inspection Steps

According to the manual I need to remove the venturi by

1) Detach adjuster of the steering cable from nozzle
2) Detach ball joint of shifter cable from reverse gate
3) Remove speedometer sensor from ride shoe
4) Detach steering link rod from nozzle
5) Detach reverse gate link rod from RH reverse gate
6) Remove reverse gate support with gate, venturi and nozzle assembly from impeller housing.

I will give it a try today.
 
I've been using the Mercruiser High Performance Gear Lube, we use this at the marina in all sterndrives/ lower gear cases that call for gear oil.

I changed my pump bearing oil a couple months ago and the oil was darker than I'd expected, not sure the reason why or if this is normal. I had changed it last year when I brought the boat home and found a good amount of salt water in the reservoir but it passed leak check so refilled it with this lube and hadn't done anything to it since. I'm curious to see how it looks after a couple of months use, perhaps this weekend.

There are a couple of reasons to change the oil, mostly concerning water contamination which can also result in loss/displacement of lubricant and lead to bearing damage, I began using this gear lube b/c it's specifically engineered for similar high stress marine applications, it's not marketed for use in everything under the sun.

I trust OEM lubricants are well suited for their specific applications, which is why I still use the BRP XPS-2 synthetic 2 stroke oil in the oil injection system.
 
Bonmotwang said:
According to the manual I need to remove the venturi by

1) Detach adjuster of the steering cable from nozzle
2) Detach ball joint of shifter cable from reverse gate
3) Remove speedometer sensor from ride shoe
4) Detach steering link rod from nozzle
5) Detach reverse gate link rod from RH reverse gate
6) Remove reverse gate support with gate, venturi and nozzle assembly from impeller housing.

I will give it a try today.
Click to expand...

Yes that's the correct sequence, there are three allen head cap screws used to fasten the cone. Pay close attention to the angle of the fill plug, it's easy to install cross-threaded. I use a bit of Permatex 2B gasket sealer on it's threads and install it just below flush. The plug screws into the cone in the perpendicular plane with the bearing housing center, the angle can be deceiving.

I blow the remaining oil mixture out of the bearing area using compressed air, in order to remove any last few drops of water.

I use a small hand operated oil pump can filled with the oil to refill the housing through the fill hole, and place the boat trailer tongue at ground level while refilling.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yes that's the correct sequence, there are three allen head cap screws used to fasten the cone. Pay close attention to the angle of the fill plug, it's easy to install cross-threaded. I use a bit of Permatex 2B gasket sealer on it's threads and install it just below flush. The plug screws into the cone in the perpendicular plane with the bearing housing center, the angle can be deceiving.

I blow the remaining oil mixture out of the bearing area using compressed air, in order to remove any last few drops of water.

I use a small hand operated oil pump can filled with the oil to refill the housing through the fill hole, and place the boat trailer tongue at ground level while refilling.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Manual itself doesn't talk :-D, which is the problem by just working with the manual alone, even I am used to it in my whole career.

Is this cone a "cap" for holding the oil inside? When I open the cone the oil will just run out right?
 
Bonmotwang said:
Is this cone a "cap" for holding the oil inside? When I open the cone the oil will just run out right?
Click to expand...

Yes, the cone retains the bearing oil and you will see how the o-ring makes the seal.

I think the Seadoo manual is very helpful, no manual can contain every aspect but this manual is written quite well, IMO, so are the Mercruiser manuals.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yes, the cone retains the bearing oil and you will see how the o-ring makes the seal.

I think the Seadoo manual is very helpful, no manual can contain every aspect but this manual is written quite well, IMO, so are the Mercruiser manuals.
Click to expand...

Yes, the manual is good. Just by reading it, I have learned a lot of things about the boat.
Manual represents the quality of their product.

So the only thing I need to prepare before I take the first screw off is the oil then.

As Pale Rider has suggested
Amsoil severe gear 75W90
Redline 75W90
Mobil 1 75W90

Anything else I can get from Canadian Tire?

Thanks

Paul
 
Bonmotwang said:
Yes, the manual is good. Just by reading it, I have learned a lot of things about the boat.
Manual represents the quality of their product.

So the only thing I need to prepare before I take the first screw off is the oil then.

As Pale Rider has suggested
Amsoil severe gear 75W90
Redline 75W90
Mobil 1 75W90

Anything else I can get from Canadian Tire?

Thanks

Paul
Click to expand...

The service manual specifies some sealer on the o-ring, but I don't use it. You may wish too, in the case you're not going to pressure check the bearing housing.

I prefer lubricants designed to function in case of water contamination over those which are not, in the case of a submerged gear housing. I think just about any 90~95 weight gear oil should work fine, otherwise. Perhaps BRP specifies a synthetic ester oil b/c these oils are good water absorbers and thus that may make some difference to keep the water emulsified, I'm not sure. :)
 
Bonmotwang said:
So the CT Quicksilver is the right one then?
Click to expand...

That's the one I'm using, it's designed for submerged gear boxes. The color is bluish-green and looks like the BRP pump oil, to me.

I think the key here is to change it when contamination occurs, based on the color of my merc HP gear lube this time I think I should change it twice/season.
 
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