• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Do I need to worry about the set screws!

Do you mean the adjustment that allows the throttle to remain in the position you set it to so you can drive with both hands or the carbs settings?

I wouldn't worry about it at all right now if the former, so long as your throttle response is crisp don't sweat the carbs either right now.
 
Do you mean the adjustment that allows the throttle to remain in the position you set it to so you can drive with both hands?

I wouldn't worry about it at all right now if that's the case, simple adjustment when back home on the trailer.

I meant low speed high speed screws. Do I know too lean too rich?
 
I meant low speed high speed screws. Do I know too lean too rich?

Golden rule, adjust them rich and then lean them back out the other way slowly with small adjustments followed by a period of operating the motor until you get it running right.

The high circuits call for closed on your's right? Remember the high side combines fuel from the low circuit as part of the total fuel input to the cylinder at higher rpm's so don't be afraid to try different settings with those low adjusters.
 
Golden rule, adjust them rich and then lean them back out the other way slowly with small adjustments followed by a period of operating the motor until you get it running right.

The high circuits call for closed on your's right? Remember the high side combines fuel from the low circuit as part of the total fuel input to the cylinder at higher rpm's so don't be afraid to try different settings with those low adjusters.

The manual says low 1.5 turn out. High close. I did as the manual says.

Do I need to open them more?
 
The manual says low 1.5 turn out. High close. I did as the manual says.

Do I need to open them more?
Try 1 3/4 and see what you get there you have more volume in your cylinder now so a little more fuel would seem appropriate.

Tuning carbs is an art learned over time and LOTS of motors...
 
After 60 minutes I would put the boat on plane for a few hundred meters at a time and vary the throttle speed the whole time the boat is planing.

A top end does not require the lengthy break in a complete motor does and it's important to include some high rpm operation while the rings are seating.

At this point after an hour of satisfactory operation they are well on the way.
 
Try 1 3/4 and see what you get there you have more volume in your cylinder now so a little more fuel would seem appropriate.

Tuning carbs is an art learned over time and LOTS of motors...

Ok taking off the air silencer to do 1.75 on low speed.
 
Try 1 3/4 and see what you get there you have more volume in your cylinder now so a little more fuel would seem appropriate.

Tuning carbs is an art learned over time and LOTS of motors...

What range low speed screw is affecting. I couldn't tell there is a big difference.
 
The big difference is how well it idles for an extended period of time without touching the throttle and it also effects the transfer to the high circuit when you bury the throttle and the initial boost of fuel from the accelerator pump is consumed.

Engine break in isn't the best time to be messing with such things but having it set 1/4 turn to the rich side isn't going to hurt anything if the motor seems to run well.
 
Water looks like milkshake when mixed with oil, dark oil looks like chocolate flavor but doesn't taste like chocolate.

I didn't mean to suggest you should taste it, though! :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes. Seems to be better :-). Transition is better. Just did a 5000RPM planing. Very strong and smooth. Should I try 1/4 on the high speed too?
 
Yes. Seems to be better :-). Transition is better. Just did a 5000RPM planing. Very strong and smooth. Should I try 1/4 on the high speed too?

No, leave that be for now. At most if I wasn't happy with the low to high transition I would only crack it a hair between 1/16 to 1/8 turn for testing and were not getting into the max rpm range yet so it's not needed.
 
Transition is good. Tried another 5000 planing. Very good. Revved to 6000rpm for 3 seconds. Oops:-D

No that's fine, in fact if it were my motor at this stage it would see wide open throttle occasionally for 10 second intervals now after the first hour accompanied by varied planing speed rpms over the course of 2-300 meter runs followed by a few minutes back to lower rpm ranges.

Your good to go, have some fun with it now for the next hour.
 
The manual says low 1.5 turn out. High close. I did as the manual says.

Do I need to open them more?

I believe the manual settings will work well, the larger bore will make more vacuum and run richer, all else being equal.

During break-in it's okay to run slightly rich if you want to, the idle should not load up with too much fuel after a minute or two so while idling the RPM should not be trending lower (too rich).

I would set the idle speed no lower than 1400RPM, but that's me.
 
During breaking in the cylinder head and body are all cold. The exhaust pipe is hot. The water coming out of back is hot.
Cylinder heats up after shut off the engine.
 
During breaking in the cylinder head and body are all cold. The exhaust pipe is hot. The water coming out of back is hot.
Cylinder heats up after shut off the engine.

The raw water comes to the head first from the pump supply hose before it picks up heat anywhere else, so that's normal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top