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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Bonmotwang said:
I have some SUPER magnets. Can I use the SUPER one without worrying itself being trapped down?
Click to expand...

No! Just use a shielded mechanics magnet that is insulated on the sides and open on the face to see if you can fish anything out of the bottom. Don't go getting anything stuck in there this has gone really well for you so far no reason to tempt fate.
 
Waterluvr said:
I think it's primarily because there's no boring one, and Iv'e seen my fair share of expensive air cooled Nikasil saw cylinders relegated to the bin on account of heavy scoring in the plating with pretty short run times. I was able to save a few with 320 ball hones but most were junk at that point.
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So with the rod pushing from an angle, the piston skirt is designed to to touch the liner?


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Bonmotwang said:
So with the rod pushing from an angle, the piston skirt is designed to to touch the liner?


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In a concentric manner, yes. When the crank journals or bearings deteriorate or become damaged it affects that angle and piston slap occurs, forcing the skirt hard to one side and back.

Failure in 2 strokes happens like this:
1. You have light damage to the pistons from wear and tear that gradually increases over time.
2. At some point, that can and will damage the bottom end if not discovered in time. (you found yours in time)
3. Damage to the crank and bearings will quickly facilitate the destruction of what remains of the cylinder bore, pistons and connecting rods.
4. -Call a priest.
 
Bonmotwang said:
So with the rod pushing from an angle, the piston skirt is designed to to touch the liner?


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Click to expand...

This is the undesirable reality. On the largest engine in the world they solved this geometry problem, I can look for the link if you want. The oil film is there to minimize damage but once the wear goes beyond a certain amount the rate of wear increases exponentially. If the piston became shredded the lower rod bearings would be contaminated with aluminum particle dust and ruined.

How deep is the oil puddle in the crankcase?
 
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Yes, the nikasil is complicated. So to is the sprayed-on iron cylinder liner Ford has begun using. I would never ball-hone nikasil, nor would I use a flap hone. In my experience muriatic acid is the way to go, and scotch brite.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yes, the nikasil is complicated. So to is the sprayed-on iron cylinder liner Ford has begun using. I would never ball-hone nikasil, nor would I use a flap hone. In my experience muriatic acid is the way to go, and scotch brite.
Click to expand...

I actually use a bolt eyelet with a red scotch brite pad and WD-40 to clean them up once I get the transfer off with the acid, I find warming them up first helps the acid work better on the aluminum transfer.

The 320 silica ball hone is for the port edges to clean up any corrosion from the acid as they aren't coated, only run it for about 20-30 seconds and I find much higher compression numbers using the hone than without.
The silica balls won't hurt the plating on those 320 ball hones, I actually tried to get into the plating on a cylinder that was scored through and not reusable and couldn't do it half an hour.

Wouldn't put a flap hone anywhere near one. I'm pretty much sold on using the ball hones as a final finish step in the process now, I think it allows a small window of extra oil film for the first couple minutes of run time.

I've gone back to setting everything over 50cc's for a 32:1 mix and tuning them accordingly, these newer stratified air cooled motors are nothing more than a built in air leak for emissions standards and they don't live long at 50:1.

I was horrified when strato motors were released by Husqvarna and guys were bringing me brand new saws with less than 5 hours on them. Pistons scored to pieces, toasted crank bearings, broken rings and melted index pins. There's no way they can live on the factory carb settings and recommended mix the way those are designed.
 
Dropped off the cylinder at the dealer.

First thing Steve said was:" where are the f*****g pistons?" LoL.
And "don't drop the fg pings into the crankcase if you are doing it! Put a magnet really close".

He said Thursday Night it will be ready with a full top end kit.
The parts will arrive Thursday morning. I guess he will order parts after he's done some measurement and decide on the piston size.

He looked at the cylinders and felt those scored lines. He said he will take away the lines first and measure if the 1st bore is OK.
What he actually said was "I will take away the lines first, then I will let you know how bad it is" :-D

Turn around time is better than I thought if everything goes well.
He's owned the shop for more than 15 years. He said he will need full 2 hours to do the cylinder, "UNINTERRUPTED!" he says.

If I have sometime during the day, I will go back to the boat and get the pistons off the rod. Are they super tight on the rod?
 
No they aren't super tight, any man of even small stature with girlie hands can pop those right off there with no more effort than opening a bag of beef jerky or trail mix.

That comment he made about not dropping the *pings* into the crankcase? Cover it well, cover it some more and cover it again. Those covers will save your hind end when things finally come loose and you discover the bearing cage is no longer in one piece.
 
Yes cover cover cover
550.jpg



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This is for sportster
In side the skirt. Super clean :-)
With yellow high temp mark.
551.jpg

552.jpg

553.jpg


Yes the centre pins are very loose. I can push it back and forth.


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So you'll be back on the water breaking it in next weekend with a full power engine all over again. And, you did it yourself!
How's that for an achievement unlocked?
 
Need to find a longer socket to drive the pin out. Loose in there but tight when it is coming out. Into meeting again. Later.


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How much more if you just take the boat over and let him finish it up? :facepalm:

I'll be dead at this rate. However, there will be a really top shelf Challenger that runs perfect available at that stage. -Just sayin :)
 
He has pretty reasonable labor rates for this day and age, might be well worth it if times an issue. Did he mention the brand of pistons he intends to use for the build?
 
I'm sure he'll throw some used tractor piston in there after cutting them to the correct bore. (LOL!)

Need to call him and inquire how much longer he will need, and if the pistons are there yet?
 
The pistons are still on the rods. Pin is 1/2" out.

Also. He confirmed that the piston is supposed to rock one way in the cylinder.


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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I'm sure he'll throw some used tractor piston in there after cutting them to the correct bore. (LOL!)

Need to call him and inquire how much longer he will need, and if the pistons are there yet?
Click to expand...

Did you mean How much longer he will need to assemble the top end back into my boat?

He quoted me $340 a couple of days ago.


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