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2001 RX Reboot Project – MPEM related question

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The instructions for removal for the PTO cover are different than what I'm experiencing....the destructions say 4 bolt holes, I have 6:

1680366306670.png
I removed the 6 bolts:

1680366469284.png

Then the instructions jump to removing the bolt without any instructions on taking the PTO coupling off. I assumed it would fall right off. Mine is very stuck (oh gee wonder why). I did order a new PTO coupler, but I will probably need the PTO bolt to put this thing back on, so unless I get at the PTO, how the F do I get this off? Perhaps I'm better off just ordering a new PTO coupler bolt so I stop wasting my time.

I just watched a video of a guy removing the PTO coupling with the motor in the ski using the impellar removal tool, and turning clockwise instead of counter?
 
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I sprayed it earlier with a lot of PB blaster and deep creep then did some running around.

Tonight I did one last try before putting tarps on everything. I lightly tapped around the PTO coupler with a small hammer and the PTO coupler fell right off into a big dirt pile. Looks like it was stuck with rust...

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LOL that's common. It really doesn't take much to get the end piece removed as you can see there isn't anything holding it. Always best to proceed with caution just like you did. So... good job !!! The other part you need to remove can be much more difficult. I purchased the SBT flywheel puller set and have used it on numerous occasions. It works very well. Sometimes I've had to heat the flywheel but that needs to be done very carefully. Spray some of that magic stuff on there before you mount the attack. LOL

Paint it pretty when you get done. :D


951 Carb Engine PTO Painted.JPG
 
I used a universal flywheel puller until the bolts started bending. So I went and bought a torch. Torched it a bit, then used a wonder bar tapped on it a few times and it fell off.

1680458088954.png

1680458121302.png

Some people I know nearby have an airplane / helicopter repair business. So I'm likely going to take the parts over there have them bead blasted, and then paint them again. Although I still have to replace the broken zerk fitting if I decide to do that. Otherwise, I can bead blast the new one as all well, paint it, and put it on.
 
Well I'm stuck at the flywheel / magneto cover. The instructions say I can remove it with a regular universal flywheel puller, but I can't. I got the nut off, but the flywheel and magneto have to be backed off as one piece, which appears can only be done by screwing something onto threads on the shaft and backing it out. I ordered the tool shown in the video provided. Waiting on it. I called over to SBT and they said, yeah just use a universal flywheel puller. I said, no that's not possible. The guy looked it up and said, oh, yeah. Well drop your core off and we'll charge you $50 to get that off. I told him the tool cost 37.00.
 
I didn't have good luck with the 3 point puller on the mag flywheel. I use "this one" (SEE LINK AT THE BOTTOM) and it works the best for me. It's from SBT but I've pulled a lot of flywheels with it. I have 2 of them just in case I break one or it wears out. I don't like having to stop and order parts or tools. LOL Good Luck!!


Flywheel Puller
 
2023-04-05

Returned the gasket kit provided which was for the prior year ski, Swapped for proper year.

Received exhaust manifold and what I thought was only the PTO coupler. The company actually sent the PTO coupler and PTO cover for $18 with free shipping. That must have been a complete loss for them. Medium flat rate shipping box costs $15.00

Have my sealants.

Unfortunately I'm not set up in a garage anymore so I'm working outside and covering up everything with tarps and sealed plastic every night.

The magneto remover tool should be here today. I lightly sanded the gasket area on the manifold to clean it up a bit.
 
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After ordering a tool online and being shipped one that was obviously not the right one, I ordered the one from SBT that they supposedly did not have, and went and picked it up.

I screwed it on. I started turning clockwise as video showed with a breaker bar, and the remover crunched and fell off.

The starting thread(s) of the remover tool are damaged, and it apparently also peeled off the starting thread on the magneto.

WTF.

I'm about to put this fucking motor in my car, take it over to SBT, and have them get the flywheel and magneto off AND refund me for the fucking tool!






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Love my impact that I'm not supposed to use on this stuff. LOL Sorry to hear man. I wish you guys lived close to me, we'd have some fun !! Good Luck !!
 
etemplet said:
Love my impact that I'm not supposed to use on this stuff. LOL Sorry to hear man. I wish you guys lived close to me, we'd have some fun !! Good Luck !!
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Everyone says not to use impact so I haven't. Probably because of the aluminum and composite metals involved. This shit is going to to SBT tomorrow and I'll let them remove it and hand me my magneto and starter bendix.
 
2023-04-07:

I called and then took it over there first thing this morning. They couldn't get it off. "Something" stripped the threads at the way back. Um, perhaps the tool? Regardless. They gave me a flywheel/hub assembly and bendix. Not sure the bendix is in such good shape. It should pull back rather quickly, and it's slow going.

The flywheel / hub assembly has rust on it in several places. At least I didn't get charged. No refund on the tool though.

Still can't bolt a whole bunch of stuff back on.

I ordered the bendix, so the magnetic hub/flywheel can't go back on.

The starter can't go in until the bendix is seated.

I believe I can't do the PTO until the mag hub / flywheel hub and cover are back on. Not really sure about that but I assume there is an order for a reason.

Can't do the exhaust manifold till all that is back on so I can stick a rag in the ports to hold the pistons from turning.

I did clean, paint and bolt back on those plastic covers over the reed valves.

I can probably bolt some sensors back on, but at this point why bother when they can get damaged wrenching?

So I guess I'll focus on the carbs. The more I looked at them today, I'm wondering how they changed out the needles, and did any type of upgrade without removing main oeiteker clamps. One hose is snapped. Not sure why. No blue or green goop, but definitely some salty scrappy stuff up in these.

Can anyone recommend a good video to follow or instruction PDF in a step by step process. Would like to sit and do this today?
 
Make sure you pressure test this motor after you reassemble it. Those reed cages will leak sometimes and you'll run lean.
 
Is it normal for the carbs not to have the same gaskets in the same place? The reason I ask....

I started going at the carbs yesterday. I am doing one at a time and placing the parts I take off in a row in my work area as well as taking pics as I go. I'm doing this so I know what to put back as I clean and /or replace each item.

I woke up early this morning in a panic thinking I may have to open up the 2nd carb again. The first carb had two extra gaskets under the pump cover here and and another chamber which I guess is called "body assembly pump" according to the manual which looks like it does return and splits to the second carb. The pump cover (which you see behind this body assembly pump), also had a plastic and papery gasket as well:

1681201779445.png

The above shown gasket/diaphram went below the pump cover and on top of:

1681201827311.png

The second carb did not have those same gaskets (papery / clear plastic):

1681201932059.png

1681201983777.png

I am supposed to have BN46i-42-14 carbs. So I guess it's a 46mm carb.

Every video I've watched for carb rebuild shows those clear / papery gaskets in this area. the only Mikuni carb manual I could find is for MK-BN38/44 SPR. It shows these gaskets used as diaphragm, damper.

Should I add these? I've never worked on these carbs myself, but as I have stated, the shop that did the modifications did.

BTW, although goo was in the first one, both filters were actually clean.
 
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thejuice48 said:
It looks like it requires yet another tool which I am not about to buy. It blows up, it's on SBT.
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Smh... You are just asking for this to blow up and you'll be doing this all over again. I don't think you understand how these engines work if you are skipping a pressure test.
 
thejuice48 said:
It looks like it requires yet another tool which I am not about to buy. It blows up, it's on SBT.
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Lucky for you they have a no fault warranty. If it blows up in less than one season, it's because you cut corners and didn't follow the correct procedures in the service manual.

Better get them carbs and fuel system right too! Can't believe you are just cleaning them and reusing the old gaskets. "thinking I may have to open up the 2nd carb again" tells me you didn't properly rebuild them.
 
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WhiskeyD said:
Lucky for you they have a no fault warranty. If it blows up in less than one season, it's because you cut corners and didn't follow the correct procedures in the service manual. Hope you are looking forward to doing this all over again 😂😂😂

Better get them carbs and fuel system right too! Can't believe you are just cleaning them and reusing the old gaskets. "thinking I may have to open up the 2nd carb again" tells me you didn't properly rebuild them.
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I am following the installation instructions provided by SBT. SBT's instructions for the 951 do not say a pressure test is required. However, they do say to inspect reed valves and the parts I pulled off my ski which I am doing. The reed valves didn't appear to be worn or broken. I posted pics here and no one commented.

I never said I was reusing old gaskets. You made that erroneous assumption. As I disassembled the carburator (one side at a time), I kept the parts on my bench in the order they were removed to make sure I didn't forget a gasket or piece to replace with a new piece from the carb rebuild kit.

With regard to the leak test, I read the shop manual and it appears to be for testing the engine itself for water path leaks which I believe is the same testing they do at factory:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...sbt_faq.html&usg=AOvVaw3d9pzpW6Q4cRGiBgC2GQnt

"The engines undergo a four-point test program. Case and waterside pressure retention is tested by installing block-off plates on the engines and measuring leak down rates. Compression and squish is verified to be within the OEM guidelines by turning the engine over at starter speed."
 
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thejuice48 said:
what to put back as I clean and /or replace each item.
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Hopefully you are using OEM mikuni kits and replace all soft parts with a new needle & seat. Not trying to be an ass, I've built a lot of these and the reed cages do leak sometimes. You won't know unless you pressure test.
 
WhiskeyD said:
Hopefully you are using OEM mikuni kits and replace all soft parts with a new needle & seat. Not trying to be an ass, I've built a lot of these and the reed cages do leak sometimes. You won't know unless you pressure test.
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Isn't the point of testing the pop off pressure to verify function of the needle and seat? Both were 19/20.
 
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WhiskeyD said:
Hopefully you are using OEM mikuni kits and replace all soft parts with a new needle & seat. Not trying to be an ass, I've built a lot of these and the reed cages do leak sometimes. You won't know unless you pressure test.
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When I pulled the reed cages off they had a white sealant / rubbery gasket on the engine side. I noted that and went back to the manual to find out what the sealant was. The manual mentions loctite 243 but is unclear where, and only enough only on the DI blowout of the bottom end.

1681221577228.png

The reed cages on mine have a rubber seal to the engine, but I also added 243to the backs that makes contact with the engine, and torqued to specs. Looking at the design it seems the outer portion cover to the reed valves are what creates the seal since they have a higher torque, not the reed valves themselves. It would be nice if the service manual provided and explanation of how the components work rather than do this or do that.

I also wonder why the service manual for my ski does not have the pop-off pressure specs for my ski:

1681222528511.png
 
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