2001 RX Reboot Project – MPEM related question

[JC-SUPERJET]

Looking forward to the successful project completion or till the "Juice" runs out, whichever comes first

Either way, the Lessons Learned will be valuable.

P.S. Never underestimate the humble Jetski Two Stroke Engine. Too many regard it as just another Lawn Mower Engine. It has and will continue to humble many in the past, present and future.

 

[thejuice48]

People come by and they're all encouraging as I work on this. But a member who is supposedly an enthusiast, is so negative. Just chaps my ass. Like if you don't have anything encouraging to say STFU.

I really don't consider it a lawn mower engine. I try to understand what the manual is telling you to do, which would be great if it went into more detail.

 

[etemplet]

Looking forward to the successful project completion or till the "Juice" runs out, whichever comes first

Either way, the Lessons Learned will be valuable.

P.S. Never underestimate the humble Jetski Two Stroke Engine. Too many regard it as just another Lawn Mower Engine. It has and will continue to humble many in the past, present and future.

AMEN !!! Some people like puzzles. This one comes alive at the end if you get all the pieces in the right place.

 

[etemplet]

People come by and they're all encouraging as I work on this. But a member who is supposedly an enthusiast, is so negative. Just chaps my ass. Like if you don't have anything encouraging to say STFU.

I really don't consider it a lawn mower engine. I try to understand what the manual is telling you to do, which would be great if it went into more detail.

I was counting the other day. I never had a jet ski till 5 years ago and I shopped for 2 years before I bought one for $800. Since that time I've restored 20 Seadoo jet skis and fought some long hard battles. I still enjoy restoring the skis and I still get my butt kicked when working on them. Enjoy the ride...

 

[thejuice48]

I was counting the other day. I never had a jet ski till 5 years ago and I shopped for 2 years before I bought one for $800. Since that time I've restored 20 Seadoo jet skis and fought some long hard battles. I still enjoy restoring the skis and I still get my butt kicked when working on them. Enjoy the ride...

I bought my first jetski in 1999. It was a 1997 SPX. My second, that same year, a 1998 SPX. Bought my floating docks. Then I decided to make my riding more comfortable. SPX's were very tippy, and if you ever got an inch of water they felt like they were sinking. I replaced the engine in my 1997 SPX after I took it to a mechanic and he told me the starter was the problem. Somehow he didn't attach something right and the hull filled with water and the engine took on water. Replaced it with an SBT engine. It was harder then because you had to time the engines with that wierd little wheel. Now you just pull off the flywheel and magneto as one piece and you're fine.

Then I bought my 2 - 2001 RX's. When one broke and was in the shop for a month, I purchased a brand new 2007 RXP. I then sold one of the Rx's because I only had two floating docks at the time. Then the RXP got stolen while it was temporarily on the trailer waiting for service and very few people knew. It was locked down, etc.

I am now down to just the 2001 RX. Which is easier to work on than a full on computer supercharged ski with ceramics.

A couple of weeks ago I rode a CF hull. Don't like it and quite frankly, my RX feels more beefy when it's running right. Gets up out of the hole. It's feels like a beefy jetski with an extended swim platform.

I have found the more you take a ski to someone else to work on, the more problems you have.

BTW, the blue line seems to be ok. Not sure if it would be so good if I didn't purchase the brass t. I did however, let it sit out on my stainless steel grill, then use my portable vice to assist me wiggling the line on:



The nylon t probably would have broke if I had to use the vice. I will install zip ties, but I probably wouldn't need to worry about it for a few years until the hose had a chance to expand/shrink.

However, on all 3 connectors will need stainless steel hose clamps. Or maybe even those plastic ones that can be squeezed on.

UPDATE: Nope. Apparently the old hose line which was used to measure what was needed expanded....so 1/8" is actually what is needed with a 1/8" fuel line (internal diameter). Ordered and on the way from Amazon.

 

[etemplet]

I tried to order clear hose for the jet ski oil lines and couldn't find what I wanted. What I ordered was too stiff and I could not get it to seal on the fitting even though I used hose clamps. It took a lot more pressure to conform and still a really really slow drip but that adds up over time. A year later I replaced the hose for the owner because the hull keep filling up with oil (the ski sat for long periods). This line was the the return. For all the trouble I had with that hose, I'm buying from seadoo. For the small line you are working on I'd buy Tygon but the problem is that vendors mislead and much of it looks the same. I now test the dang stuff. Good Luck !!

 

[thejuice48]

I tried to order clear hose for the jet ski oil lines and couldn't find what I wanted. What I ordered was too stiff and I could not get it to seal on the fitting even though I used hose clamps. It took a lot more pressure to conform and still a really really slow drip but that adds up over time. A year later I replaced the hose for the owner because the hull keep filling up with oil (the ski sat for long periods). This line was the the return. For all the trouble I had with that hose, I'm buying from seadoo. For the small line you are working on I'd buy Tygon but the problem is that vendors mislead and much of it looks the same. I now test the dang stuff. Good Luck !!

I didn't specifically go looking for clear hose, but I was forced to order on Amazon. It matched, had a good rating, did my diligence. You do not know how many different places I called up locally asking if they had fuel line for two strokes. Seadoo dealerships don't even carry parts anymore nor do they know the specs. They use partzilla so they don't have to pay for the seadoo software.

For instance, when I was trying to find a dealership to program a key....we don't have that system anymore. But hey, if you want to buy a new machine we also don't have in stock, please come on in!

Yes, vendors do mislead. But I really cannot stand spending hours in the car driving around with ho results. I'd rather use my time to do online searches, look at reviews, etc.

Seadoo doesn't even have the specs for the hoses or part numbers.

 

[mikidymac]

That colored hose always gets hard and brittle.
All you need is standard Gates fuel line. RX takes 5/16 for everything but return which is 1/4”.

 

[thejuice48]

That colored hose always gets hard and brittle.
All you need is standard Gates fuel line. RX takes 5/16 for everything but return which is 1/4”.

I heard that. The gray with the red / pink strip is pretty brittle too. It snaps if I try to bend it.

 

[thejuice48]

While I was priming / repainting carbs today, I noticed what appeared to be a missing coupling missing for fuel (the second port pictured to the right of it is blocked off:



I blew air through the missing? connector it and it came out elsewhere.

Can I just spin this off with a wrench and match it up to one at a hardware, autoparts, or carb store? UPDATE: You can spin it with a wrench, and just keep working on it till it eventually comes out.

If I compare it to the other carb, the connector looks like this, and the secondary port on the first carb is blocked off:



The broken part once removed:



It's simply inserted with some gasket glue.

The insert is 0.224409 inches or 5.5mm and the the nipple which sticks out at a 90 degree turn is 6.5 mm or 0.255906 inches.

Today I contacted Mikuni directly. They apparently have an agreement with someone they send broke carbs to, who in turn agrees to supply hard to find parts for free. So it's on it's way

Whoop Whoop!

He also confirmed you cannot buy the umbrella check valve anywhere other than company named Whoola or something.

It is truly a beautiful day. It is amazing the things that make me feel happy!

 

[thejuice48]

I tried to order clear hose for the jet ski oil lines and couldn't find what I wanted. What I ordered was too stiff and I could not get it to seal on the fitting even though I used hose clamps. It took a lot more pressure to conform and still a really really slow drip but that adds up over time. A year later I replaced the hose for the owner because the hull keep filling up with oil (the ski sat for long periods). This line was the the return. For all the trouble I had with that hose, I'm buying from seadoo. For the small line you are working on I'd buy Tygon but the problem is that vendors mislead and much of it looks the same. I now test the dang stuff. Good Luck !!

The 1/8" line would likely work for oil lines. It also works for the line between the carbs and fuel accelerator. In my situation although i ordered a 1/8 tee on all sides, measuring the OD ended u being 3/16. Instead of sending multiples back and continuing my search for another solution after I week, I decided to stretch it out enough to go onto the t fitting. I basically sat it out in the sun, shoved an allen wrench a size larger in the line for the ends that would go to the t with some molly kote in the sun, waited for it to expand, spun the allen wrench around a few times, then shoved it on each t. That then fit perfectly on the carb fittings:



When I requested to return teh 3/16 line previously sent, they just issued me a refund.

 

[thejuice48]

Yesterday, Sunday, April 23rd, I sat the new engine in the hull with everything except the carbs and tuned pipe bolted on. Considering I purchased the new engine on 03/28 and had a bunch of other stuff to order / receive/ use /adapt in the meantime, I am happy with my progress to get this jetski back on the water.

For some reason the installation gasket kit did not come with the metal gaskets that go on the flame arrestor mounting bracket to the carbs, nor the sealant that should probably be applied as well. They are available from SBT. I also seem to remember needing threadlocker on the mounting bolts, but the schematic doesn't show any.

I'm waiting on some more Loctite 518 to arrive.

I've been kicking around adding a bit of Amsoil 2-stroke synthetic to the pistons through the plug holes for initial kick over.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[mikidymac]

No additional oil needed for first start.
All carb/intake bolts get loctite. 518 is good on the flame arrestor bracket.

 

[thejuice48]

No additional oil needed for first start.
All carb/intake bolts get loctite. 518 is good on the flame arrestor bracket.

518 is a gasket maker. Flame arrestor bracket bolts& carbs medium strength I assume? Your'e saying apply 518 to the gaskets which attach the flame arrestor to the carbs?

 

[mikidymac]

Medium strength is fine.

If there is a gasket it goes on dry.
Per the parts diagram there are no gaskets, plate to carb = metal to metal, only those get 518.

 

[thejuice48]

Medium strength is fine.

If there is a gasket it goes on dry.
Per the parts diagram there are no gaskets, plate to carb = metal to metal, only those get 518.

I did look at the parts diagram; however, I have flame arrestors (however you spell that). When I pulled it apart, I found two metal gaskets (one for each carb) and they appear to be coated in something sticky. 518 would make sense. SBT sells them as flame arrestor gaskets.

I was just there yesterday and now I have to go back again to get the impeller boot. I went to reinstall the pump yesterday and realized mine was missing. Then I realized I found something on the ground and put it in my little storage kits.

And just this morning, I found the outer ring of my wear ring chunking off as well. Lovely.

Looks like the wear ring is cracking all the way through as well:



This was a 2011 SBT wear ring FYI. To my recollection I did not spray it with any chemicals. I know they are meant to wear but nothing said crack and fall out! The prior one was in there from 2001 to 2011 and I only changed it because I had the pump off for maintenance.

 

[thejuice48]

No additional oil needed for first start.
All carb/intake bolts get loctite. 518 is good on the flame arrestor bracket.

 

[etemplet]

I call that good salesmenship. On carb engines I mix the first tank of fuel at 80:1 and just ad fuel as it is depleted. I don't add any more oil to the fuel than that first tank. The oil I use for premix is the same one I plan to run in the oil tank. I take it easier on the throttle for break-in. SBT measures throttle position, I look at engine RPM. I ride the first 1/2 hour with the seat off the ski. I'm looking for leaks but mostly feeling for hot spots. Good Luck !

I add ZERO oil to the fuel on fuel injected engines.

 

[thejuice48]

I call that good salesmenship. On carb engines I mix the first tank of fuel at 80:1 and just ad fuel as it is depleted. I don't add any more oil to the fuel than that first tank. The oil I use for premix is the same one I plan to run in the oil tank. I take it easier on the throttle for break-in. SBT measures throttle position, I look at engine RPM. I ride the first 1/2 hour with the seat off the ski. I'm looking for leaks but mostly feeling for hot spots. Good Luck !

I add ZERO oil to the fuel on fuel injected engines.

Ok, but again, how much extra oil should I add to the gas in addition to the oil pump? Amsoil says go with manufacturer recommendations on premixing. Service manual doesn't have one. My SPX was like 40 to1 for regular rides. I used ratio rite so I didn't have to think. I believe break in ratio is supposed to be 32 to 1? So an extra 8 ounces per gallon? Then I found a chart which says it's .8 of an ounce extra per gallon.

I never want to fill the fuel tank the first few rides out in case I notice a problem (crossing my fingers not).

 

[thejuice48]

I am also now freaking out because I found these two springs with plastic inserts in one of my boxes I was using before I started using ziplocks with labels for each part I took off. I don't remember where they came from, but I may have found them in the hull when I cleaned it out. The items removed prior to instituting my ziplock system included the jet pump, the back handle / seat grab, rear electrical box, front vent that sits over the gas tank, reverse cable, grips, battery.

The 2 springs themselves are very weak. When I removed the carbs I unhooked the lines that ran to the choke and fuel and left everything else assembled. The ones on the carbs to activate the fuel return are there. Anything that came off the carbs went right into the baggy labeled carbs, and it was only 4 bolts and 4 washers. The rest of the pieces stayed on the lines within then hull.

I used Adobe's advanced search through the manual for spring and there is not a single one that looks like this:

 

[etemplet]

I'd say you got some missing parts and it looks like those springs go on the choke rods. In your picture they appear to be missing.

 

[etemplet]

Ok, but again, how much extra oil should I add to the gas in addition to the oil pump? Amsoil says go with manufacturer recommendations on premixing. Service manual doesn't have one. My SPX was like 40 to1 for regular rides. I used ratio rite so I didn't have to think. I believe break in ratio is supposed to be 32 to 1? So an extra 8 ounces per gallon? Then I found a chart which says it's .8 of an ounce extra per gallon.

I never want to fill the fuel tank the first few rides out in case I notice a problem (crossing my fingers not).

If your oil injection system is connected and set properly I wouldn't go more than 80:1 on the oil premix but that's me. 1.6 oz per gallon, but do your own math. LOL

 

[thejuice48]

The only 3 places I can see where there would be a spring on the carbs are highlighted below.

The top 2, I never removed because there was no reason to do so in order to clean the internals, passages and remove/replace gaskets within the ends of the carb.

The bottom one I kept separately and did install when I reattached the fuel accelerator pump to the

I'd say you got some missing parts and it looks like those springs go on the choke rods. In your picture they appear to be missing.

The only 3 places I can see where there would be a spring on the carbs are highlighted below.

The top 2, I never removed (and they are there) because there was no reason to do so in order to clean the internals, passages and remove/replace gaskets within the two ends of the carb.

The bottom one I kept separately and did install when I reattached the fuel accelerator pump to the carb:

 

[mikidymac]

I thought you meant adding oil to the cylinders.

On my new engines I premix 50:1 for the first full tank and that is it, full tank. This is also haw I track the break in procedure.

If you removed the choke for a primer that is where those springs came from.

 

[thejuice48]

I did not swap choke for primer