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RESTO 1998 SeaDoo Challenger 1800 Restoration Project

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Guest_User said:
finished the battery switch today....
Click to expand...

Man....I would LOVE to have you as my neighbour. That switch looks factory...heck...everything on your boat looks Immaculate. How clean is that engine compartment of yours man? I'm amazed.
 
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Nice clean job, I'd love a radio in my Speedster. I just can't bring myself to drill a hole anywhere on the boat. I love the look of an original unmolested ski/boat. Not that what you're doing is molestation, but they're only original once. Perhaps if I was the second owner it may be a different story. Keep up the good work.
 
Nice PR. We went out at Corson's Inlet today not a soul was there when we arrived and only about 5 trailers when we left, 4 of which were double ski trailers. But there was way more traffic today vs yesterday. I guess a bunch of people got their boats out of their slips. We took a quick blast up to Atlantic City, well just south. We ended up in Lakes Bay by Bader Field Airstrip. I missed my turn to go through the canal to make it to AC and all the other bridges had a low slung natural gas line on the other side, didn't want to risk anything. Also didn't help that I couldn't see the screen on my phone. I really wanted to get in behind the Borgata. It was a nice quick trip up, about 30 to 35 minutes, and about 25 minutes on the way back, I could taste the Wawa hoagie in the cooler had to drop the hammer. The water was great!!!!!!! Not sure I'll be going out the rest of the weekend, don't feel like dealing with the idiots.
 
Guest_User said:
I`ve been wanting to remove the SeaDoo depth gauge that was never hooked up and replace it with a voltmeter. I finally got around to it. Had to modify the rubber trim ring flush so the gauge sits all the way in the hole.
There is no separate 12v key on power source unless you tap into the gauge power.
There is a 12V constant on power source, but that wouldn`t do any good keeping the gauge activated.
To simplify the wiring there was a short pig tail harness from the main to the fuel gauge. Reading the wire schematic showed me which wires to tie into. The wires are soldered in, and bullet connectors used with an added inline fuse to the gauge..
I understand the gauge will show slightly less volts than what is actually at the battery and it`s does just that. It is .5-.6 volts lower at the gauges than battery volts. I really just want it to monitor the charging system and that it is functioning correctly.

Also went with 2 HardLine hour meters that just use a single wire to trip the meters on... These are water proof, and I`ll see how they work in this location.
Click to expand...

Guest_User,
Does your voltmeter contain back lighting? If so did you tie the back light into the light switch?
 
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Guest_User said:
yes, and surprisingly matches the others fine. I tied into the fuel gauge lighting supply.
Click to expand...

I have the same voltmeter, or at least very close to the one you installed. I decided to install it this weekend.
I tied into the fuel gauge for the meter as you did, then tied directly into one of the hot wires coming out of the light switch since it was so close and the fuel gauge is all the way across the dash. The 99 challenger dash configuration is different from the 1998.
Now by installing the voltmeter, I can now keep a eye on the charging system (trigger coil malfunction) and the gauge closes an open hole in the dash. (was plugged before)
It is reading almost straight on 13v. I calculated about a 0.5v drop so...I'm good!!

FYI,
My boat came with a battery switch, but no depth finder...that is next, as soon as, I decide the way I want to go with it.
 
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Guest_User said:
Just to reiterate what I posted in the transducer thread:
There was a change up due to some issues with the hawkeye depth gauge.

This is where to install a shoot thru transducer in a Challenger 1800 jet boat!

Success! The Hummingbird 610P depth gauge with XAP 9 20 shoot thru angled puck transducer works perfectly in this location.
On the dead rise just ahead of the ski locker.

I used rope caulk to act as a dam for the 2 part epoxy, formed it in a circle (after prepping and cleaning the hull) applied epoxy to the hull and transducer, secured with tape until it set up. 24 hours later done!
tested it out and with works up to max speed just fine! thank goodness...

note* and Doc Honda is correct, I contacted Hummingbird and I can get a new bezel and face plate for this gauge...
this is just a temporary bezel shown...
Click to expand...

Guest_User,
Did you remove the ski locker sock to install the transducer?
 
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