1995 HX Project

[mikidymac]

You are going to have to just match something up. Lowe’s used to have Valspar light dune and sumptuous purple which were perfect matches but now discontinued. Just rattle can then I do a couple coats of clear.

Yeah you really should do a leak down test but if it was me I would do all new gaskets and seals.
It’s actually a pressure test to 8 psi not vacuum. You only have to block off the two intake ports where the carbs bolt and the one port where the pipe attaches. Just get some thick rubber and sandwich it between the carbs and head-pipe. It’s only 8psi and some have used the rubber plugs from parts stores.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Should I block fittings for cooling lines on the head cover? I’m thinking if I don’t there would be leakage past the rings, oh wait, just had a thought (imagine that) the cooling jackets are seperated from combustion chamber so no need to block the outlets for cooling on the head cover.
-And do I put pressure in the pulse line nipple?
- would I not be only testing the one side of crank by pressurizing through pulse nipple?
- will connecting a hose between the 2 intakes on the block offs remedy the problem of only reading the one side of crankcase?
- also worried about the rotary valve limiting the test, when looking in the intake manifold t he rotary valve is presently completely blocking access to the pto side of the crankcase,
I’m really sorry about all these questions. I will have a look hopefully later today and see what I have laying around to make these block offs. Just trying to make a detailed list of everything I need first and get things ordered. Don’t like having time and no parts.

 

[Bowser]

Painting a Seadoo Motor

Looks like it has good painting tips. I was curious too

 

[burtshaver2021]

A number of options on that painting thread, looks like there’s no need to use high heat paint. As with all painting, prep is key. I’m going to clean the engine well, give it a good sanding just to scuff the old paint For good adhesion, then give it another cleaning with something that leaves no residue ( maybe acetone? Not sure there will have to do a little research) might use a wire wheel in spots that I have trouble scuffing with the sandpaper. I just want to be sure the new paint sticks to the old. If anyone knows of a good match for the seadoo white I would certainly appreciate the input. Not that it really matters a whole lot to me, I will probably just go to my local Napa store and ask to look at some samples and have them mix me a up a couple of cans of there recommended paint, to me it looks like an off white like antique white. then I will give it a couple of coats of clear coat. I will post some pics once I’m done

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’ve been looking around for parts and stuff and came across OSDparts.com. Does anyone have any experience ordering from here? Good to deal with? They seem to have almost everything you would ever need

 

[burtshaver2021]

I came upon a thread where Dr. Honda had mentioned that sea doo parts house helps to support seadooforum.com or was it seadoo warehouse?, I'm not sure, anyone know? Hopefully it was seadoowarehouse.com because i went on there right from this dashboard, had to set up an account, i thought my login information for seadoo forum would work there but it didn't, had to set up another account. Does anyone know if we get any discount there from being a member here? Anyways, the prices on seadoo warehouse are really good as well, maybe a dollar or 2 more for a few things, but a little less on some other things. The thing i really like about seadoo warehouse is i can just put the part number in the search bar and voila!!!! Not having to search through 5 or 6 search results on google till i find what i need. I left a message on the contact form asking how much i need to spend for free shipping and if they ship to Canada, doesn't matter if they ship to Canada or not as i have an address in Ogdensburgh New York as well. Does anyone know the answers to these questions? So I'm just waiting on their response before i order but i just about have my order ready. Spent like 6 hours today going over everything i need, here's my list so far. From seadoowarehouse.com I will be ordering -Fuel selector valve - new grommets for the pressure relief valve and check valve - new o ring for the fuel/water seperator - Redline jet pump oil, pack of 12 6oz. bottles for 16.99 -tube of synthetic grease for 22.99 - grommet for the bottom of the oil tank - 6mm clear hose pn 219704360, its 15000mm long which is 591" for 124.95, 8mm clear hose pn 219704412 , 3000mm (118") for 30.99. I hate not being able to see through the clear lines for the bailers, engine drain line and the water spout line ( whatever its called ). O ring part number 293300011 for 9.09 - plastic nut for fuel fill pipe pn 211100012 for 13.49 -10mm washer and 10mm lockwasher to attach that stud to crankcase with.
I'm going to get the Genuine Mikuni carburetor rebuild kits from OSD 49.99 each as well as loctite 518, some more 1/4' fuel line for 2.49 a foot
And not sure from where but i want to pick up a few start/stop button covers, I probably need a couple of those. I also noticed that the small clamp on the drive shaft boot part number 293650055 was not there so i need to find one of those, maybe a zip tie would work? if i cant find one.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Sadly they are gone.

Well this really sucks, I just went back to your carb rebuild thread and no pictures there either. How did this happen?

 

[mikidymac]

No, nothing else to block off for pressure testing. Pressure will get to both cylinders through the exhaust manifold. Yeah you pressure through the pulse nipple.

The pictures show up fine for me on the carb thread.

Yes OSDbis legit. Order the back to OEM carb kits with springs and lever arms.

 

[burtshaver2021]

No, nothing else to block off for pressure testing. Pressure will get to both cylinders through the exhaust manifold. Yeah you pressure through the pulse nipple.

The pictures show up fine for me on the carb thread.

Yes OSDbis legit. Order the back to OEM carb kits with springs and lever arms.

, the back to OEM said manufactured by OSD, but they are good? I was about to order the genuine Mikuni for 49.99 USD but the 49.99 Mikuni doesn’t come with apron bc and arm.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Doesn’t come with lever and arm

 

[mikidymac]

Doesn’t come with lever and arm

It’s the Needle Arm Pin Set +$8 option.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Well I have good news and bad news. I couldn’t get the crankcase to hold air. At first I was pumping my Mity Vac for a long time and not getting any pressure to build up so I put some air from the compressor to it and could feel air escaping from the small oil lines, they were rotten, they broke off as I was pulling them off. After changing the small oil lines I was able to get about 6 pounds of pressure in there with 27 or so pumps of the Mity Vac So much better but it lost 2 pounds of pressure in 43 seconds. I put some caps over the RV inlet and vent nipple in case it was leaking past the Center seals, also capped off the cooling lines in case it was getting past O-rings in the cylinder cover but no luck. Sprayed some simple green that I had handy in the shop around the plugs, around the seals I made for intake and exhaust, around all the caps I had put on, didn’t see any leaks. Good news is I put 6 pounds of pressure in the rv cavity and it held that 6 pounds for 8 minutes. Didn’t move the needle at all. When I pressure tested the crankcase what I did was cut some inner tube from an old one I found lying around Into the shape of the baskets and sandwiched it between the carbs and intake as well as between exhaust manifold and tuned pipe cone. Before I do
anything else I think I’m going to get a new inner tube and put some type of gasket maker between the mating surfaces just in case. It was a pretty old inner tube. And test again. In order to check the outer crank seals with soapy water would I need to remove the pto and the magneto flywheel?

 

[burtshaver2021]

The manual I’m using is a 1996 manual even though the HX is a 95, shouldn’t make any difference?

 

[burtshaver2021]

So the outer bearings on this are lubed with the gas oil mix? There’s no Isoflex in the outer bearings right? or integrated seal on the inside outer bearings correct? If that’s the case I’m thinking just changing the oil seals should stop the air leak if there is one?

 

[mikidymac]

It should hold 8psi for a minimum of 10 minutes without dropping at all. Mine hold indefinitely when fresh.

Dish soap and water in a spray bottle, look for the bubbles.

No, the crank bearings are lubed from the fuel and oil. Only the rotary gear and rotary shaft are from the oil bath.

You can't replace the inner crank seals yourself, only a rebuilt crankshaft.

 

[burtshaver2021]

The inner seals tested good, unless it’s my seal for blocking off its one of the outer oil seals that are leaking. I would need to take the pto off and the mag flywheel to check those with soap wouldn’t I?

 

[burtshaver2021]

The outer bearings on a skidoo are isolated with an integrated seal, I thought the seadoo ones were open to the gas oil mix but thought I would ask just to be sure

 

[burtshaver2021]

Would I need to split the crankcase to change the outer seals in this engine or can they be taken out with a pick?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Just reading a bit right now and I see that the manual says the bottom end needs to be opened to change seals on 717. Only mag side seal on 787 can be changed without splitting case. Also wanted to mention that after seeing the condition of the small oil lines on this, I will be changing those in all my machines and any new machines I get in the future. Very cheap insurance

 

[burtshaver2021]

I probably won’t be posting much for a while, I have to get the taxes prepped and my quickbooks quite working this year so I will be pretty busy getting that all straightened around, then have a roof to shingle and a house to get ready so yeah, this will have to take the back burner for awhile. Going to get the parts all ordered though so that I have them once I get some time again. Thanks Miki

 

[burtshaver2021]

Just because I was curious I put the crankcase under 6 pounds of vacuum, it holds steady with no movement at all. Maybe it’s sucking in on the outer seals causing it to seal?

 

[mikidymac]

Vacuum test isn't what you do to test, positive pressure @ 8psi.
Typically on these it is the intake manifold o-rings or the crank seals. You need to find the leak.

Yes, you have to split the cases to change the MAG and PTO crank seals.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’m assuming the pto and mag flywheel will have to come off to test the seals with soap and water? I have sprayed everywhere and haven’t found the leak so far.

 

[mikidymac]

The flywheel yes, you should still be able to see bubbles from the PTO seal.

 

[burtshaver2021]

At this point I’m pretty sure it’s one of the oil seals that are leaking. I’m going to split the cases to change the oil seals. I’m pretty sure I understand how to remove pto and mag flywheel. The rest I’m not 100% sure about. Manual mentions the armature plate. Does it come off and go on in only 1 position? I have no experience with the rotary shaft. I only need to remove the rotary valve? I don’t need to remove rotary shaft do I ? Will I need a degree wheel and tdc gauge for rotary valve timing. I have never split the cases so I’m looking for you to point out any pitfalls I could run into as a first timer.