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1995 HX Project
- Thread starter burtshaver2021
- Start date
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The bedplates have a tendency to come loose so yes on the red.
Engine is out
Missing 1 of the bolts and it’s moving that 1/8” on the other bolts that connect saddle mount plate to the crankcase
I looked through the manual and the parts catalog. I didn’t see any reference to the stud in the crankcase. I did see part numbers for the nut and washer but not the stud. Any idea of the part number or size? Should I see ivv FCC one of the other studs will come out and match it
I guess I could probably match the stud just by taking the nut in somewhere
Disregard that last message, I had found a fastener in the hull when I first purchased the machine and put it in a baggie. That’s the one I need. Will have a look hopefully later today, but I think all that is missing is the washer
. Will have a look hopefully later today, but I think all that is missing is the washer
Bowser, I can see your post about removing the clamp in the email notification but I’ve looked through the posts here on seadoo forum and your message is not showing up in the thread. ???
You should have removed the 4 bolts holding the bedplate to the engine mounts, not the 8 bolts holding the bases to the hull. You are going to absolutely have to get an alignment tool for this one.View attachment 61278Engine is out
I was following the manual, it says to remove the 8 bolts.
The manual notes “ on HX model, it is not necessary to perform engine alignment when the support is not loosened from rubber mounts” which makes sense to me as the shims have not been disturbed this way.
Bowser
Active Member
Yes I deleted the original post when I saw ya had the motor out, figured my input wasn't needed but I'll post it again!
To remove the collar around the PTO boot. Pinch the metal ridge where there are two layered humps, one smaller one larger. When these humps are compressed it'll free up slack in the metal collar enough for the tab on the end to fit over the pointed "lock" above it on the end. Lift up the tab over the lock and the whole collar comes free for re-use
All I can say is good luck.
Of all the skis where engine alignment is critical it's the HX and 1997+ XP's.
Also keep in mid that your year of HX has the weakest engine to dirveshaft connection, in 1996 they changed it to the coupler style that went on to be in the 1997+ XP's.
Never said I wasn’t aligning it or anything, just showing you what the manual states. I definitely appreciate the help
I trust what you say more than the manual, already came across an error or 2 in the ski Doo manuals that the guys on dootalk pointed out. I’ve done a lot of reading here on seadoo forum so I know your experience.
No problem at all. Jut want to make sure his HX serves you well.
I hope so too, I love these old seadoo’s. I’m a little nervous to drive this one. Going to wait till end of June or July when the water is it’s warmest here
If it helps my HX resto thread is here but sadly most of the pictures were lost to the PhotoBucket debacle. RESTO - 96' HX Resto
As far as the HX, I think everyone should ride one at least once.
They are a challenge to board in deep water. I am 6'3, 200 lbs and find it easy but I have been riding skis for 30 years. You have to start in the water on the left side of the ski, put the lanyard on, reach up and grab the bars then start the ski, give it some gas and turn hard right and the seat will sink as you pull yourself up and leg over the seat. M friend who is very athletic and thin got drug around the lake for 30 minutes and finally gave up, he could never get on.
They are very narrow and tippy but turn very hard and you lean inside unlike most other skis, they will rail a turn. Top speed is only about 47 mph.
For me it was a one trick pony as the only thing the doo well is turn hard. They do not jump, they do not spin and you are wet the entire time with spray in the face. It became a ski nobody in our group wanted to ride including myself. It is one of the only skis I have sold from my fleet. If I want to go just have a stupid fun time playing and the water is calm then I take the 96' XP, if I want to go fast, the water is rough and I need to cover distance then I take the 01' XP.
As far as the HX, I think everyone should ride one at least once.
They are a challenge to board in deep water. I am 6'3, 200 lbs and find it easy but I have been riding skis for 30 years. You have to start in the water on the left side of the ski, put the lanyard on, reach up and grab the bars then start the ski, give it some gas and turn hard right and the seat will sink as you pull yourself up and leg over the seat. M friend who is very athletic and thin got drug around the lake for 30 minutes and finally gave up, he could never get on.
They are very narrow and tippy but turn very hard and you lean inside unlike most other skis, they will rail a turn. Top speed is only about 47 mph.
For me it was a one trick pony as the only thing the doo well is turn hard. They do not jump, they do not spin and you are wet the entire time with spray in the face. It became a ski nobody in our group wanted to ride including myself. It is one of the only skis I have sold from my fleet. If I want to go just have a stupid fun time playing and the water is calm then I take the 96' XP, if I want to go fast, the water is rough and I need to cover distance then I take the 01' XP.
I’m really glad you posted this, I will be reading it over a few times before I take it out and also looking for some YouTube videos to get a visual on how to board it. I used to be 6’3” 205 pounds but now at 47 last time I checked I was 6’2” and 225 pounds. On my maiden voyage I’m really hoping not to flip it over, I’ve never flipped a ski so not sure how turning them back over would go, don’t really want to find out. Yes, I started out in 2014 on a Wet Jet Kraze which has been my go to ski ever since , spend a lot of my time out there, doing 180’s getting the water to come over the front of the ski. Still have every ski I’ve ever bought which is 10 in total but I may have to get rid of 1 or 2 or else my wife may put an end to me buying any more. 
it handles chop surprisingly well and is very stable for a 2 seater. I drove my brother in laws 94 XP and loved it, can turn that on a dime. I will see hopefully how I like the HX, I probably will never get rid of it but may just drain the carbs and store it, pull it out every once in awhile, who knows. I’m looking forward to getting my 95 XP working right, it should be very similar to my brother in laws 94. As for the HX, I got the oil drained out of it, gas tank out and drained. The gas was pretty orange, smelly and a little gritty at the bottom. Started cleaning the hull out while the engine is out. It was pretty dirty and I found 2 more bolts, a ratchet, ratchet extension, a whistle and a socket. Besides the stuff I knew was missing like the knee pads and the piece that fits around the fuel filler neck, I’ve noticed the nut that holds the fuel filler pipe in place is missing underneath and I think it may be leaking oil from around the grommet at the bottom of the oil tank. Minor things that I can find. Is one place better than an another for ordering fuel selector valve? I’ve read that some are faulty when new and would like to get it from somewhere reputable or are they all the same?
it handles chop surprisingly well and is very stable for a 2 seater. I drove my brother in laws 94 XP and loved it, can turn that on a dime. I will see hopefully how I like the HX, I probably will never get rid of it but may just drain the carbs and store it, pull it out every once in awhile, who knows. I’m looking forward to getting my 95 XP working right, it should be very similar to my brother in laws 94. As for the HX, I got the oil drained out of it, gas tank out and drained. The gas was pretty orange, smelly and a little gritty at the bottom. Started cleaning the hull out while the engine is out. It was pretty dirty and I found 2 more bolts, a ratchet, ratchet extension, a whistle and a socket. Besides the stuff I knew was missing like the knee pads and the piece that fits around the fuel filler neck, I’ve noticed the nut that holds the fuel filler pipe in place is missing underneath and I think it may be leaking oil from around the grommet at the bottom of the oil tank. Minor things that I can find. Is one place better than an another for ordering fuel selector valve? I’ve read that some are faulty when new and would like to get it from somewhere reputable or are they all the same?
As for the photos, I was reading through racerxxx thread on his 96 XP restoration and yes the photos where not there, it just said jpg. But no photo which was really disappointing. I would have like to see that ski, I got tired just reading the thread,
If all works out with the HX I would like to look into putting the electronic trim on it, I read briefly a post about putting it on, should have book marked it.
I'm not far behind at 46.
The HX is like nothing you have been on. When you fall, there is no if, that is when the challenge will begin.
You really need to add an XP 800 1995.5-1999 to your fleet. Much more fun that a 94' or 95 720.
As far as the trim, I really don't see the need on a stock HX it was nothing I felt needed to be adjusted from the neutral position.
As far as skis I am down to only 6 but one is my wife's and she knows there are worse things I could be doing, LOL. She has the same GTI as in your signature.
The HX is like nothing you have been on. When you fall, there is no if, that is when the challenge will begin.
You really need to add an XP 800 1995.5-1999 to your fleet. Much more fun that a 94' or 95 720.
As far as the trim, I really don't see the need on a stock HX it was nothing I felt needed to be adjusted from the neutral position.
As far as skis I am down to only 6 but one is my wife's and she knows there are worse things I could be doing, LOL. She has the same GTI as in your signature.
I just read your 96 Hx Resto thread and it sounds like you did a real nice job restoring it, would really like to see the pictures with it. Do you know if those pictures will be available again or are they gone forever.
Sadly they are gone.
While I have the engine out, I might as well touch up the engine paint, not going to sand blast it just going to clean it very well, scuff it all up good with 200 grit and paint with a shaker can. Can you tell me off hand what colour code, manufacturer and type of paint I should use? If you don’t have info readily available I can do some research.
Also want to do a leak down test before I put it back in, have a mityvac but don’t have any block off plates or the exact knowledge. I think I’m supposed to block off the intake manifold, block off the exhaust manifold ( I have the the tunes pipe off, but the ( I’m going to call it y pipe) is still on) block of y pipe, I think I need to have a line connecting the 2 intakes as they are separated in the crankcase by inner seals. But I’m not sure about the rest, do I need to block off the 3 oil line nipples? Do I need to block off the 3 water lines to the head cover? Do I need to have the rotary valve in a certain position? Currently I can see the crank through the intake manifold on mag side but pto side is completely blocked by rotary valve? I think I can make block offs for the intake and exhaust using plywood, old gaskets are still in so they should help seal it up if I torque it to specs, I can paint the plywood block offs and sand them ultra smooth or maybe skim them with a silicone. But yes, not sure what all I need to block in regards to oil line nipples and waster line nipples. I believe I’m supposed to pressurize it through the pulse line to 8 pounds and hopefully hold pressure for 8 minutes?
Also want to do a leak down test before I put it back in, have a mityvac but don’t have any block off plates or the exact knowledge. I think I’m supposed to block off the intake manifold, block off the exhaust manifold ( I have the the tunes pipe off, but the ( I’m going to call it y pipe) is still on) block of y pipe, I think I need to have a line connecting the 2 intakes as they are separated in the crankcase by inner seals. But I’m not sure about the rest, do I need to block off the 3 oil line nipples? Do I need to block off the 3 water lines to the head cover? Do I need to have the rotary valve in a certain position? Currently I can see the crank through the intake manifold on mag side but pto side is completely blocked by rotary valve? I think I can make block offs for the intake and exhaust using plywood, old gaskets are still in so they should help seal it up if I torque it to specs, I can paint the plywood block offs and sand them ultra smooth or maybe skim them with a silicone. But yes, not sure what all I need to block in regards to oil line nipples and waster line nipples. I believe I’m supposed to pressurize it through the pulse line to 8 pounds and hopefully hold pressure for 8 minutes?
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