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You have an 800cc motor, which has the 40I carbs. All 787/800cc motors, have the 40I carbs.

how do you rate yourself with turning a wrench? Dont take this personal, but if you had a hard time, figuring out how the fuel switch is to be removed, i would advise starting a "thread" if anyones' in the Toledo area, from this forum, for help.

Bigdawg, its worth tearing down the motor and having it inspected. I'm leaning toward a cracked sleeve.

great find, nemrod.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sea-Doo-GTX-951-air-box-intake-silencer-2000-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27bb1b5729QQitemZ170642855721QQptZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts

My first thought would be to look inside the pump assy for debris. Try looking from underneath through the intake grate, at the impellor. With no obstruction, i would then proceed to removing the head of the motor for inspection. Its possible, you broke the skirt of the piston or a breass...

The flange helps the oring stay seated. Nothing special, just an o-ring will do.

primer kits are great, however the o-rings inside them dry up and cause it to suck air, while priming.

Sounds as though you have whats left, is a piece of all-thread left in the block. With the head of bolt missing, remove the manifold and then either chase the treads so you can install 2-nuts to jam them together to remove the all thread or a vise grip to remove whats left. Undo the pipes...

Cut both ends off the old driveshaft, and weld a handle onto each, you'll then have 2-impellor tools....:)

nothing special, if you can, take the assy with you, and match up the o-rings from your local supply hardware store.

You do naot have to remove the exhaust pipe, to access the carbs. Remove the airlid assy to see the carbs and its bolts. From there its a matter of "feel" to remove the bolts and the throttle/oil cables off the carbs. Remove the 2-screws off the throttle/oil cable plate, so you do not mess up...

your 951 flame arrestor does in fact have only 1-clip to secure it onto the tops of the carbs. Get yourself a pin-clip, like the one you use on the cranking wheel on your trailer, and install it through the bottom of the lid clip. Will hold it in place, good and tight.

FULLBORE....give a Dan a call.

His machine does not have a neoprene washer. Good luck though, with your rebuild.

remove the flywheel ccover, and inspect the wires from off the stator assy.

Its your bendix assy. Need to access it, through the flywheel cover. Not a fun job. #17 http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=59&B=3

no....If memory serves correctly, theres 2-allen bolts that hold the front, which has a bracket with it, along with 1-allen bolt, located at back of starter.

theres a metal c-clip, under the steel collar, that the carbon ring rides against. Have someone hold the driveshaft, while you push the steel collar towards the back of the ski to expose the clip. Do a compression test on the cylinders, since you have ran it 4-times, with a wear ring in that...

Locate your pump assy, and take a look inside of it. You should see 2-white stems, protruding thru the top of the pump. If somehow your missing, just one of those, then the bailers' system, will have a reverse effect, thus, syphoning water INTO the hull. You can also install a bilge pump...