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The X4 Thread

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Yes, the 94XP is an X4 hull. A lot of guys don't consider it an X4 unless it has a 787. My opinion is if its an X4 hull it's an X4. This will probably start a new debate.

The 94XP is a good ski, 657x engine, 80HP I believe. If this is in good condition and a good price go for it.

Lou
 
A 94 is not a true x4 the hull is shorter, wider and does not have trim tabs. That is what made an x4 a x4. The 95 was the first year for a x4 and it was the one with a 717 so it does not have to have a 787.

The first seadoo I had was a 94 xp. It was fun and I had fun with it for 1 summer but in the end it was just too slow for me. The body is pretty much the same as an x4 though. All of the hoods,grab bars and alot of other parts interchange with each other.
 
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Technically they really had x4s in 94 but only racers had them, they got their hand on the hulls before they were mass produced.
 
[MENTION=37676]purple_people_eater[/MENTION]

B.O.A.T. We all know what that means but

P.art
W.ith
C.ash

That seems appropriate too
 
O.K., I'm willing to admit it when I'm wrong. I just looked it up and the 93-94XP actually has a second generation SP hull. I stand corrected, but you gotta admit it did start a debate.

Lou
 
Anybody got any idea on how to use the fuel baffle and guage in another boat? I'm hoping I can get away with retrofitting a spare tank/baffle/guage in a small boat I have... There's bound to be a way to do it by finding 12volts to the guage and hooking up the sending unit to make it all work without having the computer from the ski? Anybody done this? THX!
 
Minnetonka4me said:
ATTN X-4 Hoarders!!! LOL ok any machine hoarder... The Wisconsin Dells Freeride is coming quick!! Worth the drive from ANYWHERE!! We have peeps coming from Utah, Colorado, Ohio, Kansas, Indiana, Illinois, Wi, Mn, Ia, FL, EVEN CANADA (right kicker??) May 31-June 2!!!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...EERIDE-May-30-June-2-2013&p=316599#post316599
Click to expand...

I am doing all I can to make it, so far so good. I have a little more incentive now that I know I own an X4.............all this time I thought it had to be a 787. :lol: Thanks for once again starting the debate.
 
kicker said:
I am doing all I can to make it, so far so good. I have a little more incentive now that I know I own an X4.............all this time I thought it had to be a 787. :lol: Thanks for once again starting the debate.
Click to expand...

Yeah buddy!!

A little X-4 AND Dells Freeride porn!!

 
Here is some X-4 / Jettrim porn for ya! UMI is going on this week. I hated to cover a 95 XP800 seat, but the factory cover was tired. Hopefully the water will warm up a bit more so I can ride the XP soon instead of the gtx ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365409805.894420.jpg
 
Ok guys i'm wanting to sqeeze a little more out of my ski. I'm not looking to go crazy, but I would love to see 60 on the gps and a hard pull getting there. ;) Anyways I have no idea how much time my motor has on it. I understand the basics of carb tuning and the function of the water regulator. I do know the compression is between 145 and 150 the last time I checked it so i'm good there. My boat is completely stock under the seat and the only mod to the pump is a JD grate. I can get 6850 consistantly and thats with my high speed needles cracked between closed and 1/4. Right now i'm getting 56.5 and 57 some on my gps. I know there is no perfect answer and several ways to approach this, but what would you guys recommend I do first? Impeller, nozzles, Proks, head, pipe, etc? I've read a ton of post but nobody seems to post there performance results with said mods.
 
It's stainless steel so there isn't much "give" if a small rock makes its way through, but it's circumference is true and stays true under pressure, basically allowing very uniform pressure to build in the pump and also has less surface friction for the water as it passes through. Think of it as waxing your sled before going down a hill when you were a kid- instant speed increase. A hotter pitch impeller will also help you get a few more mph but you will likely lose some low end.
 
smc0922 said:
It's stainless steel so there isn't much "give" if a small rock makes its way through, but it's circumference is true and stays true under pressure, basically allowing very uniform pressure to build in the pump and also has less surface friction for the water as it passes through. Think of it as waxing your sled before going down a hill when you were a kid- instant speed increase. A hotter pitch impeller will also help you get a few more mph but you will likely lose some low end.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. So if I am running through the bay a lot and there are a lot of shallow spots that would be bad then? If there is not a lot of give it would damage the impeller instead correct?
 
My personal opinion as far as performance goes on these seadoo's is to spend about $600 and send it out for a Group K sleeper. I am not affiliated with them in any way but I have had them do a few skis and they know what they are doing. Go check their website. They have been building endurance racing skis for years so they know how to make reliable power and that is what you want on a recreational ski. I had them do my 1997 XP and just like they said it started, idled and was as reliable as stock but would match a XP Limited at any speed. The best part is when you pop the hood it still looks bone stock. They have always answered the phone for questions and I have never seen any of the builds they did for me fail. You can go pipes but then you are just turning more RPM's and that does not help crank life. Just my opinion.
 
At this point I'm gonna run a XO, proks with bill o rejet and a 85/88 nozzle. I scored a XO locally. Anybody got a nozzle set they want to sell? :)
 
Hey does anyone know whats the deal with swapping the stock pump housing from an x4 for a 140mm rfi pump from like a 1999 gsx? I found one that would be cheaper than going with an XO and new wear ring (mostly because I could sell the stock pump) but I dunno if I'll get similar gains.
 
Yup its essentially a big hub pump, and its super light. They do hook up and accelerate better than the small hub. The down side is its plastic, it breaks easily.

The props are not interchangeable with mag pumps.
 
Thanks for the quick reply minnetonka, I knew someone here could help!

So it would be worth it to go with an rfi pump with the stock impeller in good condition, but I should keep the bronze pump in case the plastic one breaks? and you're saying the props for the small hub bronze pump do not interchange with the large hub plastic pumps, right?
 
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