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The X4 Thread

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An 800 quash gap should be at 1.2 to 1.6mm. That is an engine spec... and not a recommendation.

A lot of places will shave the head, to bring up the compression... but that's not the way to do it with a seadoo. The proper way is to cut the head... then, re-machine the squash band in the head. That way, you maintain the "Cooling" effect of the squash gap... but you make the main combustion chamber smaller. In turn, raising the compression.

If you have high compression now... it could be that someone cut the head... or it could be that the base gasket is the wrong size. I would check that now. If you are out of tolerance... and you put that pipe on... your top end will have a very short life.
 
Ok got a ?, Will you still get green fuel lines if you have never used ethnol??
 
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Well I got the XP engine together. My bar that comes through the hull to connect to the trim is broken on the end it connects to the nozzle. But I did carry it down to the ramp and it cranked up fine and seems fine. Won a bid on stock flame arrestors for $20. Now gotta get that bar. Also the temp sensor is bad. After those two should be going again. Hope everyone had a nice 3 day weekend, it did nothing but rain here.
 
Well I got the XP engine together. My bar that comes through the hull to connect to the trim is broken on the end it connects to the nozzle. But I did carry it down to the ramp and it cranked up fine and seems fine. Won a bid on stock flame arrestors for $20. Now gotta get that bar. Also the temp sensor is bad. After those two should be going again. Hope everyone had a nice 3 day weekend, it did nothing but rain here.

Sounds like you will be skiing soon. We got out Friday afternoon up on Smith. The boys got a new wake board and they were really anxious to try it out. We burnt about a half-tank of gas Friday and Saturday and then the rain kept us off the water the rest of the weekend. Overall however, it was a good weekend. Looking forward to getting the XP repaired and out.
 
Well I got the XP engine together. My bar that comes through the hull to connect to the trim is broken on the end it connects to the nozzle. But I did carry it down to the ramp and it cranked up fine and seems fine. Won a bid on stock flame arrestors for $20. Now gotta get that bar. Also the temp sensor is bad. After those two should be going again. Hope everyone had a nice 3 day weekend, it did nothing but rain here.

I've got ANY OEM part you...or anyone...needs for the 96xp/x-4 hull. Do you need the metal part, or the plastic piece that goes into the VTS housing? Check your boot too...those rot after a few years. I have new ones in stock, and the correct clips too if yours has hose clamps holding it on...they make them rot faster.
 
Ok thanks!!!!! I would of totally ordered the wrong one been very mad and :cuss:. Well now should I get black marble or yellow camo hmmmmm Anyones input would be great, Ill try to get some actually pictures of my ski no no camera phone crap. :cheers:

I have the yellow camo...its awesome. It fades, but hit it with a power washer and it brightens right up.
 
Well I got the XP engine together. My bar that comes through the hull to connect to the trim is broken on the end it connects to the nozzle. But I did carry it down to the ramp and it cranked up fine and seems fine. Won a bid on stock flame arrestors for $20. Now gotta get that bar. Also the temp sensor is bad. After those two should be going again. Hope everyone had a nice 3 day weekend, it did nothing but rain here.

from saterday at 10am and still contuning now is rain. have not been able to get out. on the plus side i got my wetsuit today, so if it works well i should be able to add another month and a half to my riding season.
 
Tested it runs good seems ok didn't run it long at all maybe 5-10 mins. Had the trim tied in place with zip ties just to see how engine was. And I have those Vortex flame arrestors just waiting on parts to get in to get rid of them. I got 54mph with trim tied straight on GPS so seems fine. No spitting or sputtering very responsive. Will let you know after get rest of parts in and try it.

I have new decals from Doc to put on but, on the back of the ski and the front it had Ocean Pro stickers. I peeled them off and scrubbed them with scouring pad and tile-x there is no sticky left but, there is an imprint of the sticker still there. Maybe try rubbing compound?
 
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Yep... sand the hull with 800 grit wet dry sand paper... then use 3m super duty compound, with a foam bonnet, and a rotary polisher. It will make the hull look new.
 
I have those Vortex flame arrestors just waiting on parts to get in to get rid of them.

If they are in good condition I might be interest in buying them off you. Why don't you want to run them? Too hard
to tune? Ive heard flame arrestors, jets and a new prop were the best bang for buck mod. Lmk :)
 
So I searched this form for this but couldn't really find what I am looking for(if there is one, could someone post a link to it). So I am looking to change my pump oil this weekend and need to know what oil I use and how much (I have herd 3 oz or something), Also anything to be careful of or what to check while I am in there.
Any info would be great!! 1998 spx FYI:thumbsup:
 
So I searched this form for this but couldn't really find what I am looking for(if there is one, could someone post a link to it). So I am looking to change my pump oil this weekend and need to know what oil I use and how much (I have herd 3 oz or something), Also anything to be careful of or what to check while I am in there.
Any info would be great!! 1998 spx FYI:thumbsup:


It's easy.

1) Remove the nozzle.
2) Remove the pump cone. (watch out... oil is going to come out)
3) let it drain.
4) Clean/replace the O-ring on the cone
5) Put the cone back on and remove the grub screw
6) Fill with synthetic 75w-90 GL5 gear lube.


NOTE:

1) 3oz is the fill level... but in reality... just top it off. (you don't have to measure the oil) but... give it a few minutes to make sure all the air bubble come out of the bearings.

2) If the oil is basically clean... there are no issues. If the oil is very low, or milky... then the pump should come out, and be serviced.
 
WhiskeyD,

I will post you a pic of them. We are fixing to leave for son's football game. I will post them late tonight or in the morning. They seem fine to me looks wise. I am still waiting on the stock one's to get in they should be in first of next week. As far as why I don't want them, I just want a stock engine with aftermarket intake grate, prop, nozzle, and tabs. Just personal preference. The carbs are what I feel least confident on when rebuilding or changing.

Edit:
While waiting on wife to get ready took a pic and uploaded it and mowed the lawn.

 
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It's easy.

1) Remove the nozzle.
2) Remove the pump cone. (watch out... oil is going to come out)
3) let it drain.
4) Clean/replace the O-ring on the cone
5) Put the cone back on and remove the grub screw
6) Fill with synthetic 75w-90 GL5 gear lube.


NOTE:

1) 3oz is the fill level... but in reality... just top it off. (you don't have to measure the oil) but... give it a few minutes to make sure all the air bubble come out of the bearings.

2) If the oil is basically clean... there are no issues. If the oil is very low, or milky... then the pump should come out, and be serviced.

Thanks!!! :D Ill let you know how it goes
 
hey guys im gonna be looking at a 96 xp it looks like its in great condition is there anythin in particular that i should look for in these xps? i have a 96 gts so i know basically what to look for i just common probs with these
thanks Rick :thumbsup:


edit i just talked to the guy he said the vts is not working
 
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Lol women are great at giving us that extra "minute", but I'll admit, sometimes the end result is worth it :)
 
hey guys im gonna be looking at a 96 xp it looks like its in great condition is there anythin in particular that i should look for in these xps? i have a 96 gts so i know basically what to look for i just common probs with these
thanks Rick :thumbsup:


edit i just talked to the guy he said the vts is not working

non-working vts is nothing to really worry about. check the compression, youe looking for about 135-145. also check to if the exhuast is stable and there is no play in it. and the wear ring/ impeller clerance. test ride it if you can.
 
non-working vts is nothing to really worry about. check the compression, youe looking for about 135-145. also check to if the exhuast is stable and there is no play in it. and the wear ring/ impeller clerance. test ride it if you can.

ok thanks it says it has a new impeller and pump the 96 has the 800 in it correct?
 
Ok, I know this is probably the worst way to do it but this is what I did. I took my stock tabs off the back of my XP. I got one of these (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) and had it flush with the bolt hole and cut out the extra that would hang out the back, put on little silicon. I don't bounce at wot anymore. Figure it would work till can get some proper tabs.


Edit:

I have seen post about the speedo's, I ran a GPS while rideing my wife's 97 GTI it was consistantly showing 3 mph faster than what it was going. The top speed on it was 45mph I got 54mph on the 96 XP.
 
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from saterday at 10am and still contuning now is rain. have not been able to get out. on the plus side i got my wetsuit today, so if it works well i should be able to add another month and a half to my riding season.
.

What style did you get? I have one I used for the canoe in winter but, it's short legs and is sleeveless. It's called a grizzley has a spot for your belly too.:thumbsup:

Got parts in from Minnetonka4me quickly and stuck them on rode it the other morning was kinda chilly but the xp ran good.
 
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