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The X4 Thread

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Lol, good eye. I knew that one looked familiar

Yeah I paid dearly :/
I also remember reading a post about someone needing to cut the inner race off. Well sure enough
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I had my buddy clean it up before I installed.
 
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I'm not sure if this is the place to be posting technical questions. Please direct me if it is not.

I went to put my 97 SPX away for the winter. Fogged the motor, pulled the plugs and placed the wires on the tabs on the rear e box. I went to spray a little more down inside the motor. Pressed the button to turn the motor over a little. Nothing happened. At this point my retrofitted multifunction gauge was still functioning. I figured it must be a fuse. I opened the front e box, but didn't get far. Buttoned it all back up, but now nothing works. Is there a fuse for the starter? And other fuse that could be blown?
 
Anyone know the exact weight of all the different X4 hulls? I know the 95s have a thinner upper deck which reduces weight, but what about the 98 SPX? I keep reading online its lighter as well. Any truth to this?
 
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Anyone know the exact weight of all the different X4 hulls? I know the 95s have a thinner upper deck which reduces weight, but what about the 98 SPX? I keep reading online its lighter as well. Any truth to this?

NADA lists the 98 a WHOPPING 2# lighter than the 95, LOL. Not sure how with the elephant ear hood vs a single gauge on the 95. Moving all my hulls around here (all but a 99spx) they all feel like, well.....dead weight. The ONLY way to be 100% sure would be to weigh each one. Unless you believe everything on the internet. I actually think they have the 720 ski and the XL 800 weights reversed.

http://www.nadaguides.com/Boats/1998/Sea-Doo-BRP




[video=youtube;bufTna0WArc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bufTna0WArc[/video]
 
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The 98 does have a hollow plastic grab bar and less rubber mats though, one less gauge, no speedo wheel. But I think the 95 800's were 20 to 30# lighter than the rest of them. All of which when combined will shave weight, but the 97 SPX had the same as well as the 99 spx.
 
Thanks for the info the on the 98, I've only seen a handful of them and never really inspected one. Sounds like I should clean up the 95 hull I have in the back yard then! Previous owner didnt like the pink gelcoat on it so he used automotive paint on the entire hull. The paint has deterred me from doing anything with it but I think I may tackle it this winter since its the lightest.
 
Isn't that layer there for structural integrity?
Anyway, during my time cutting up my boat's hull to stuff in the 4 tec, i learned that nothing compared to the good ol side grinder. Melts though fiberglass like butter. I had a full face respirator that was attached to an air pump, feeding me fresh air. Can't imagine how horrible that would have been had i not had that...
 
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You glass in stringers to reinforce the hull. Saves a ton of weight if the foam is water logged. Theres a few good posts on it at pwctoday or greenhulk
 
got an x4 here (friends) that is still stubbornly porpoising really badly at anything over 35mph, its been too long (4 years) for me to remember how bad/good mine was so i'm having a difficult time comparing whats normal and what's not.

Already put on the extended tabs, pulled the grate. Was thinking r&d 85/88 might help.. Is there a particular grate that would help for that specific problem? Which direction should I go first?
 
ya, trim is fine. Granted I remember my 96 was a bouncy mother as well so maybe its that after so long i'm just used to bigger hulls and forgot just how bad these are. I know back in the day I used to do a lot of very wide s-turns to keep it off the center of the hull which helped but this one seems worse than I remember.
 
A UMI setup helps a lot with porpoising for me since it shifts my weight forward. That with an aggressive intake grate and I stay pretty well planted
 
The 98 hulls are lighter. There is less glue between the hulls and whatnot. They did it for the racers it wasn't for any production problem or anything.
 
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