The X4 Thread

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IMO, rebuild, you already have it apart ! and you can find good cranks for 787's reasonable (i'll check, but I don't think i have one with ALl good bearings, i might have one with a bad outer....) but finding a good 787 crank/new or used to put back in would be my suggestion.

or if nothing else, if you want to go that route (sbt), give sbt a crap core all locked up, don't give them a good head/top end/clean cases out of the deal, you want to give them the real sh1t parts.

I do agree but if I rebuild it I would want to have the case mod done for the counter shaft and one of my oil ports broke of so I'd have to extract those threads and get new crank and one of my cylinders is cracked and jb welded (by previous owner) and then I wouldn't have any kind I warranty on it. I think my best bet is to go with an sbt. And then I don't have to worry about the cases sealing right
 
I do agree but if I rebuild it I would want to have the case mod done for the counter shaft and one of my oil ports broke of so I'd have to extract those threads and get new crank and one of my cylinders is cracked and jb welded (by previous owner) and then I wouldn't have any kind I warranty on it. I think my best bet is to go with an sbt. And then I don't have to worry about the cases sealing right

Then let me fill your SBT core obligation and send your engine to me.



(please)
 
I do agree but if I rebuild it I would want to have the case mod done for the counter shaft and one of my oil ports broke of so I'd have to extract those threads and get new crank and one of my cylinders is cracked and jb welded (by previous owner) and then I wouldn't have any kind I warranty on it. I think my best bet is to go with an sbt. And then I don't have to worry about the cases sealing right

If you are ordering an engine from SBT you better request a case with the CB fill and drain, cause the last two I did din not have them.
 
Every time I do a rebuild, I put a fill and drain on the case. If you ever flood your engine, the peace of mind of knowing you don't have milky brown goo in there is worth everything to me. Somehow, none of the motor's I've ever had had this feature. It's pretty easy if you can find a hardware shop that has an NPT thread tap.
 
Every time I do a rebuild, I put a fill and drain on the case. If you ever flood your engine, the peace of mind of knowing you don't have milky brown goo in there is worth everything to me. Somehow, none of the motor's I've ever had had this feature. It's pretty easy if you can find a hardware shop that has an NPT thread tap.

My buddy has a case that already has the full and drain plugs form an sbt motor that ill probably use. What all do I need if I want to do my case as in size of tap and kind of plugs to use. In other words parts and tool list to do the fill drain mod?
 
My buddy has a case that already has the full and drain plugs form an sbt motor that ill probably use. What all do I need if I want to do my case as in size of tap and kind of plugs to use. In other words parts and tool list to do the fill drain mod?
I used an 8x1.25 (I think) tap for a drain and modified one of the seadoo allen-head bolts I had laying around. Just take one to an old-school, well-stocked hardware store, bring the bolt and they'll sell you a tap and drill for it. You want the drill-bit thinner than the bolt, to take up the shank, but not the threads. Just hold the bit up to the tap and you should be able to guess which to use. Then do the same with an NPT plug. I believe I used a 3/8 tapered brass plug. Here's where you tell whether your hardware store is worth its marbles (Lowes and H.D. don't have this). They SHOULD have a tap for that plug's thread. They should also be able to recommend an appropriate drill bit to use. Be sure to seal the drain and fill plugs with that teflon tape as if either leak, it means your case leaks resulting in lean conditions, etc.
 
Where should I get a crank from cause everything I read says do not buy sbt. I don't understand.


You should start your own thread for this rather than posting these ?'s in the X4 thread.

I prefer an OEM reman crank, I already know the quality and longevity I'm getting. I buy mine from SHSpowersports.com for $351 and change with free shipping to me. The site sponsor here seadoowarehouse.com will match that price, just PM [MENTION=2]hfgreg[/MENTION] There is a $200 core charge, SHS refunds that $200 as soon as they receive my crank, check with SDW on their policy before you order. Perry Performance Group made me wait like 6 months to get my core back which was BS. They wanted to do a bulk ship (multiple cranks) back to BRP --that's not my F'ing problem, I want my cash money immediately and SHS will do that.
 
I used an 8x1.25 (I think) tap for a drain and modified one of the seadoo allen-head bolts I had laying around. Just take one to an old-school, well-stocked hardware store, bring the bolt and they'll sell you a tap and drill for it. You want the drill-bit thinner than the bolt, to take up the shank, but not the threads. Just hold the bit up to the tap and you should be able to guess which to use. Then do the same with an NPT plug. I believe I used a 3/8 tapered brass plug. Here's where you tell whether your hardware store is worth its marbles (Lowes and H.D. don't have this). They SHOULD have a tap for that plug's thread. They should also be able to recommend an appropriate drill bit to use. Be sure to seal the drain and fill plugs with that teflon tape as if either leak, it means your case leaks resulting in lean conditions, etc.

You don't guess on tap drill sizes--ever! And don't ever start with your finish drill, start small and work your way up to your finish drill. I may use 2 or 3 smaller drill sizes before I would get to the 0.265, you run the risk of drilling off center and crooked because you're trying to man handle a drill bit through the material. Slow and easy, plenty of oil.

M8X1.25 tap drill size is 17/64" (0.265) or a letter "H" drill (.0266")

1/8-27 NPT tap drill size is a letter "R" drill

Drill and tap charts Add metric to the front to get the metric D&T charts
https://www.google.com/search?q=dri...2l4APH9IGgDQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=677
 
A crappy clip of yesterday. Finally got the ski back together and running good with the new carbs.

[video=youtube_share;vohIsLEddsw]http://youtu.be/vohIsLEddsw[/video]
 
That's my kind of riding! It was hard to read the tach. What were you turning? MPH?

7200 - 7250 max and 60mph. I need to find that couple hundred RPM more but its running so good now I'm hesitant to mess with anything.

As a comparison, my other X4 has a stock impeller and nozzles, turns 6950 and ran 57mph.
 
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Nice rip man, I thought you were gonna rag doll on that one look back. I love those smooth as glass snake runs.
 
That was with my phone in one hand. Not the brightest thing to cross a wake with one hand at 60mph holding a phone.
 
Nice video Todd!

Well fellow X-4 junkies I've really went and done it now. I got a super couch! I know I know blasphemy!!!! Don't worry my X-4 is going no where. I still love my XP, but when it beats me into submission ill hop on the RXT with the woman. They look funny on the trailer together because of the size difference. Ill have to snap a picture and post it.
 
70.jpg


I had to strip the stickers and hit it with some liquid rubbing compound first thing. That red loves to oxidize!
 
Very nice Skewba! I have that same Triton Elite and I put my new RXX in that same spot.

122- 7250 is all your gonna get out of pump gas without eating pistons. Even at that I would not hold WOT for too long and keep an eye on that plug color. It seems to rip. I'm glad you are seeing positive results from your modifications.
 
Very nice Skewba! I have that same Triton Elite and I put my new RXX in that same spot.

122- 7250 is all your gonna get out of pump gas without eating pistons. Even at that I would not hold WOT for too long and keep an eye on that plug color. It seems to rip. I'm glad you are seeing positive results from your modifications.

i'm in total agreement, 7250 is pushing the threshold, IMO any more and your going over the ragged edge.
 
Thanks for the info. That tank of gas had about 25% 110 in it so I wasn't too concerned. With 93 octane pump I never hold it WOT for that long.
 
Very nice Skewba! I have that same Triton Elite and I put my new RXX in that same spot.

122- 7250 is all your gonna get out of pump gas without eating pistons. Even at that I would not hold WOT for too long and keep an eye on that plug color. It seems to rip. I'm glad you are seeing positive results from your modifications.

Thanks Matt. It won't be long and we'll be in your neck of the woods. I think one day we are planning on riding from Destin to Panama City.
 
We went to FL for the first time about a month ago. Destin to be exact. The whole time on the beach I was looking at the waves wishing I took the skis.
 
We got a room in Fort Walton at the quality inn. They have there own ramp that is in a sound that connects to the bay. It's about 3-4 miles to crab island. Should be intense!
 
We got a room in Fort Walton at the quality inn. They have there own ramp that is in a sound that connects to the bay. It's about 3-4 miles to crab island. Should be intense!

Skewba,
Yep intense especially if the wind is from the North or east, it can be a rough ride across the bay to crab Island.
I usually put in at cinco bayou so I have a bit more open water, I have turned back more than once even on the RXT. (maybe I am a wimp).
The ride to Panama City sounds fun, we took a 22ft I/O about half way on a calm day.
Expect a rough ride through the pass at Destin to the Gulf.
I have wanted to take an x4 out to jump the surf for some time. Never seem to be able to hook up with others to go, currently I am on the no ride no fun after the 951 tossed me at 60ish...



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This is what a spec 2 coupled with a custom carbon fiber waterbox and miller buckshot head sounds like. Its mean!!! [video=youtube;QhmIx8SYd8o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhmIx8SYd8o&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]
 
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