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So I might buy a 96 sportster

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'96 Hmm, dunno, can't find the boot p/n Maybe same as '97, spline grease boot 272000001 , bellows 272000041 ?

I bought a bellows for mine (2001), WSM 003-105 but still in the bag so not tested, LOL, ie: not on the boat yet....
 
I just got one that looks like that part number. It will fit but will end up being really squished and probably warp the same in no time.

I really don't want to move the engine because that means I have to pull the exhaust pipe off too since there isn't enough room for it to move back by the looks of it. Would be nice to be able to straighten the old pipe somehow. Zip ties didn't help restore the shape of the tube either but they did increase the tension.

The bailer's are all installed now and its just a mater of going out and trying it out. I'm just just pulling back the boot for a second would bring in quite a bit of water to test with.

Is there a way to break new pump bearings ?
 
Yeah dunno, this one from WSM is 3" long uncompressed if that helps, ID is about 1.5" as well. It's been a while since I've looked at mine honestly but this one doesn't appear to be any longer, going by memory. And it seems to squish fairly easily but bounces right back. I guess heat will damage any of them and mine's most likely original. I don't see how in my case it will be squished more than the original.

Not sure if this one's what you want or need if it will work well or not or even fit, just trying to describe it for comparison.

I guess the water is pretty cold so it's tough to remove a bilge plug, I bet the bailers work great if they aren't connected backward (reverse bailers? :)).

Break in pump bearings? Try the Ferrari method! :)
 
Had the boat out today and it was great. Pump seems to hold oil and works great.
Baillers seem to work great but I think the left one pull's more out than the right one so I'll probably reduce the length of the line on that one or maybe check If I lost a spout in the nozzle.

Just glad that hull wasn't leaking :)


I'm always getting water in the bilge while its sitting on the trailer and its raining. Only place I can think of it coming from is the ski locker seal. The latch doesn't really hold it down that well.
 
racerxxx said:
272000184 replaces 272000041

OSD claims the new part# isn't as firm as the old 041 bellows. I used one on my HX along with the OSD HD carbon seal kit and I have no issues what so ever.

This is an OEM boot, not a WSM

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=230
Click to expand...



The boot was too much of a pain to replace but I did find a good solution.

I used two long zip-ties placed inside two pieces of 1.4 inch vinyl line. Then placed them over the loops in the boot and that kept them straight again. Also it did put much more pressure on the carbon seal and I lost about 1/16: off of it before it found a nice spot to settle on.
 
Yeah, I just reinstalled it and its not leaking so I didnt want to break the seal again. I don't know if there was enough room to get the carbon ring seal off the shaft with the engine in place. Its pretty tight. For now this will work but ill be replacing it as soon as this one gives m any trouble.
 
Dang, your neck must be 2ft long! :P

I'm pretty sure my ski locker door leaks as well, wouldn't expect it to seal with that gasket.

Oh man, I forgot to cruise the junkyard to pick up a washer tank............ ugh!
 
Thought about something interesting. How do you preserve the gas that is in the carbs or be sure the tank has enough mixed in it.

Why not take the water separator off and fill that with stabilizer and preserving oil. That's what I did. After running for a minute, all of that was through the carbs and into the tank by the return lines.

I just finished winterizing.

Took a different approach.

First started the engine and warmed it up on the hose to get all the lake water out and burn of a bit of moisture and then shut it down.

Disconnected the line coming out of the bottom of the exhaust manifold and the one that comes out of the top of the pipe to let the water drain out since it was the high and low points.

Vacuumed remaining water out of there and then installed a long hose from the low drain line going to a catch can higher than the engine along with the line from the pipe.

Used my pressure tank to push antifreeze from the bottle through the engine.

After all the air was out I disconnected the tank and recovered all of the antifreeze that drained out of the pump and in the catch can.

Then Vacuumed all the antifreeze out of each hose.

Removed the water box and vacuumed everything out of there.

Removed the 3 lines on the head cover and vacuumed all the antifreeze out of there as well.

That was it for t engine.

Besides that I sprayed fogging oil into the cylinders and the carbs earlier while it was running.

Also coated everything metal with fogging oil.

The PTO flywheel can rust and cut the pto seal so I hit that with lots of oil as well.

Tried to keep the water out by taping the ski cover and greasing the seal.
Then taped each water cup to keep the water out .
 
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[MENTION=64286]Mekanix[/MENTION] I believe you're talking about the stabilizer in the fuel? I add it before winterizing, then when flushing my ski on the hose at a high idle (~4000 rpm) for about a minute I see lots of smoke come out. That usually tells me the stabil got through the carbs and through the motor.
 
Mine will smoke no matter what, since I fogg after every run. I wanted to be sure it went through the carbs along with some oil so I did it that way to be sure. I really don't like working on carbs anymore :P

A little precaution now will save some headaches later.


Its going to be staying outside for the winter so I decided to wrap it but instead of getting it done I just used black pallet wrap over the cover. That worked really well last year on a friends boat. It kept the water out and withstood the winter in a very windy corridor. So I'm doing mine the same way and hopping it will do the same. Might get a tarp that will cover down to the ground to keep the trailer in good shape too.
 
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