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So I might buy a 96 sportster

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Can you put a stamp on a letter and mail it to you for the regular rate, I have never sent a letter across borders.
 
Pretty straight forward if you go to a post office. Give them my address and they will charge based on the weight, size, distance, and time frame :)
 
pm me the info and I will see what I can do. I did not calculate the international shipping in that offer.
 
Shipping to Canada is cheap and easy. You need to fill out a small form (takes 2 minutes), it's so easy doing USPS to Canada. Just put it in a box, write his name and address on it and go to the post office, ask them for the form to ship to Canada. Just use your own packaging.

Funny thing is, it's cheaper to ship to Canada then it is to the West coast.
 
I have 23 dollars in the parts, so whatever it is after that, just trying to clear out some of the extras.

The refit actually is three separate parts, the bracket a bushing and a spacer.
 
racerxxx said:
Shipping to Canada is cheap and easy. You need to fill out a small form (takes 2 minutes), it's so easy doing USPS to Canada. Just put it in a box, write his name and address on it and go to the post office, ask them for the form to ship to Canada. Just use your own packaging.

Funny thing is, it's cheaper to ship to Canada then it is to the West coast.
Click to expand...

Sure wouldn't know that based on all the moaning and groaning I hear from up there! :)
 
Do you need new handles? I have them in black brand new and cup holders and the entire fuel system.
Gallons of XPS.
 
lol I appreciate the help guys :)

Picking it up tomorrow afternoon so by tomorrow night I'll have a list of stuff Needed.

@grinditout List what you have available and I'll take a close look at those parts first.


What is the scooper update? Have any links or pics ?


I do have a complete 140mm pump and reverse scoop, well maybe a few of them :confused:. Its the plastic type like this.
119.jpg

I have seen this one the speedsters so I thought it would be an easy swap.
The one on it is metal.





As for venting the boat: A friend of mine wanted me to design something similar to ventilate and heat his cabin.
He has pvc pipes running over the roof and a 5 inch computer fan blowing air through it. The only issue was the power source has to be solar and battery and the temperature had to be controllable. So I used an Arduino micro controler and programed it to sense temperature and then control the fan speed.

The reason I bring that up is because we were also talking about adding a humidity sensor. I can get Temp, pressure and humidity all in one sensor and that can feed back to the controller to cycle the fan on and off as needed. That way the batteries can charge when power is not needed.
Programing is pretty simple with a conditional statement like "Turn fan on if humidity goes above xxx and turn off if it goes below xxx". Or make it linear like "fan speed = humidity from 0-100%"
 
yeah I know that the metal one came on the sportsters, could not call it on the swap, but it might work or the cables might not line up, try it and see.
 
Agreed, you probably want to avoid running the ventilation fan during humid periods. Not sure how much power consumption the arduino requires or even if the solar idea fits your circumstances but a mechanical humidty control switch might be another option.
 
That's easy enough to do as well.

So I dug into it tonight.

Cleaning is easy but takes a long time .
Oil in it was mercury TC-W3 :( so its all getting replaced. Luckily it only had half a quart left.
Its the 1/4 tank of old gas I'm worried about.
Handles are all pretty crappy.
Cup holders are al there and ok.
Plastic reverse gate is a direcet replacement fo the metal one.
Its got a bronze pump that is tight and smooth with a good wear ring.
Leading edge of blades needs slight dressing.
Need a tach for the spare gauge spot.


The engine.
Well As usual its always another story in itself :O

New crank as severe pitting on the pto snout where the seal rides so its no good and the guy on ebay that sold it to the po is doing good on it by sending another one but I might chuck some extra cash in and get a Brand new one. Since he paid 300 for this one, I don't mind dropping another 100 for New although this one is really tight and I think they will let me keep it :) If so I'll just find a good snout and lobe to swap on to this crank for a good spare :) Maybe I'll ask them to throw in a pto flywheel.

One of the rotary valve bolts has stripped threads. I have the heli-coil to fix it but not the right tap pitch to use with it.

There there's the block.

I tried taking the pto off. No way in hell. I'm going to rip the motor mounts out !! its on there good. Luckily I can just separate the block and get another pto since this one has seen the pipe wrench!!.

And on top of that there is the Mag. No way in hell can I get that thing off !! Broke my puller lol .

So I'm going to take the block to a machine shop I know so they can remove both with heavier duty tools.
First time I haven't been able to get something off, Even with heat and impact gun.
 
What would happen or how long would a crank that has had watter in in and some surface rusting actually last ?

Like 5 minutes ? Or would it wear the rust off and be alright after that ?

Just curious how long before this thing would have blown if the po would have just put a top end on it :P
 
I cant get the case apart to tell :p
But by hand it feels a little rough. But the lobes are not rusted at all. It almost feels like they are just dirty but not crunchy rusty.
 
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Mag assy should be ok. Getting the mag flywheel off is harder and I might hurt the magnets if I have to heat it.
 
Some progress today.

Got the flywheel off and the pto off.
Haven't measured the stator yet, think its good. (just put asside for later)

Well the original crank didn't have a lick of rust on it. However it is well used.
PTO bearings were noisy. All other bearings were replaced (not stock looking)

Connecting rods have more play than I like to see. I mean if I hold one flat on the washer and move the rod up and down, I can make it clunk slightly. Both of them are the same, I'm not sure what the spec is but its more than I think would be usable. I mean it would work but for how long ? ?

So I was thinking of getting the two outer bearings since both cranks need that, and then swap the PTO lobe and all to the good new crank.
That way it would have a good seal surface and new bearings.

I tried cleaning up the pto shaft and I don't think its possible to fix the pitting and its not severe but more than I think the seal can work with.

This is after cleaning it up. I wonder if I coul put it in a lathe and turn it down just slightly where the seal rides.... thinking out loud.
1407731806142.jpg
 
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Mekanix said:
This is after cleaning it up. I wonder if I coul put it in a lathe and turn it down just slightly where the seal rides.... thinking out loud.
View attachment 27253
Click to expand...

Once you start turning I think it will become clear that the pits are even deeper than they appear.
Besides the pits, there is existing wear and you would have to get them all the pits out to prevent damaging a new seal.
If there is a replacement available, that is the way I would go.
I have seen build ups for turning and even turn down for sleeving but never if there is an alternative.
 
I hope there is,
The seller of the crank is supposed to call me tomorrow with a solution. I don't know if that's a new one or another good one or what have you.

Really I'd love to just press this lobe off and use the good one off the worn crank and index that. I think this is the fastest way to go.

But what about the weight of the new lobe vs old one for ballance.
The stock one is all stock,
The new one is a BRP Reman (black lobes, silver pin's)

I wonder if the lobes are all the same or will I have something that is way out of balance when its done.
 
Mekanix said:
I hope there is,
The seller of the crank is supposed to call me tomorrow with a solution. I don't know if that's a new one or another good one or what have you.

Really I'd love to just press this lobe off and use the good one off the worn crank and index that. I think this is the fastest way to go.

But what about the weight of the new lobe vs old one for ballance.
The stock one is all stock,
The new one is a BRP Reman (black lobes, silver pin's)

I wonder if the lobes are all the same or will I have something that is way out of balance when its done.
Click to expand...

Above^
This is exactly how the original crank is in my 95 XP 720, I know the engine was never opened or replaced since my buddy bought it new in 95. You can't really judge it based on color, now the crank seals lend a little to that though--kind of.

Just get a reman crank. Once you remove one lobe you need to have a fixturing to get it right. The disassembly/assembly tools alone are close to $1300. Then you need the truing center. Trust me I'm all for doing it yourself and in no way don't want to see someone do it themselves, I want to be able to do it!. But air conditioning a set of cases is not high on my priority list. Your other option is having the snout splatter welded (Cladding) then turned down again, but you have to find a place that can do that and is willing to do it with the crank complete. We have had some shafts splatter welded before and the work was phenomenal, it looked like it was just made.

1.jpg




Here's the crank tools, I may or may not have looked into these before :D
http://www.rvservicetools.com/onlin...page=flypage.tpl&product_id=149&category_id=4


Here's the guide, obviously years of experience is not included.
http://www.rvservicetools.com/crankshaft-rebuilding-guide
 
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