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So I might buy a 96 sportster

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Single engine, right?
Is the carb butterfly shaft horizontal or vertical? I've heard of this before in the case of horizontal shaft orientation.

Another idea if not the above: I don't know how tight you're turning but it's normal to lose some RPM when the speed drops off and probably is more noticeable during a left turn b/c I'd guess the speed probably dropped off more due to torque steer?
 
[video=youtube_share;AgplzhV5FAA]http://youtu.be/AgplzhV5FAA[/video]

Horizontal shaft on these carbs.
 
Yeah, something about horizontal not being the best orientation for mixture stability but If I recall the mixture tended to go rich on right turns (carbs up).

Supposedly this is why Seadoo changed the 951 carbs from horizontal to vertical shaft from 1999 on.
 
There is also something about that in the SBN performance manual. Weird though.

I have to power through left turns and back off on right turns.



Its almost complete now.

I'm trying to find a round latch for the ski hatch.
 
I was told that some of the local boat shops have something like that as well but havent checked it out yet.

How can I get the scuuper update ?
 
Your carbs are not the issue with RPM drop, it has to do with the the way the water is entering the jet pump. GroupK has noted this before, the few Seadoo jetboats I've ridden in all did it. You can swap impellers to help fix it or.......when turning left give it more throttle. That is what I do, especially while towing a tube or skier. My hand RARELY leaves the control handles.


From GroupK's site

"Acceleration from Turns - Because of the mechanical dynamics of the single stage pump design, turning will always have a noticeable effect on engine rpms. In high speed "left hand" turns, the water enters the pump cavity at an angle that is "unfriendly" to the rotation of the prop. The result is that engine rpms will drop significantly from this added "load". Conversely, turning right at high speed causes the water to enter the pump at an angle that allows the prop to process water very easily. The load reduction caused by this "favorably" entering water can be so profound that the engine rpms raise significantly, and cavitation is often induced.

Both of these effects of high speed turning can be greatly reduced by switching to custom impellers of different blade designs and pitches. These impellers, and their features, are discussed below."


http://www.groupk.com/sd720jetbt.htm
 
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well now I have a brand new problem.
I called my local dealer and asked about the scooper update recall.
It turns out that since this boat was originally purchased in the United States that my warranty in Canada is Null and void. On top of that they don't list any recalls and want $60 for the he kit :o

Can you guys get it for this boat down there with my Hin ?

And why does something made here sold there and bought here again have anything to do with warantee, Actually what does warantee have to do with Recall>?
 
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Also here is another video.
[video=youtube;Nl9Iqb6pciM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nl9Iqb6pciM&list=UUDObEC-JQW4HTzF5ASJyrrA[/video]
 
Mekanix said:
well now I have a brand new problem.
I called my local dealer and asked about the scooper update recall.
It turns out that since this boat was originally purchased in the United States that my warranty in Canada is Null and void. On top of that they don't list any recalls and want $60 for the he kit :o

Can you guys get it for this boat down there with my Hin ?

And why does something made here sold there and bought here again have anything to do with warantee, Actually what does warantee have to do with Recall>?
Click to expand...

Just go to your local marine supplier or look on line, scuppers are dirt cheap. I assume it's for your deck drain.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Plast...ck-Ball-Scupper-Valve-for-Boats-/120846556191

You're looking for one like this. If I get time tomorrow I'll see if I can get a part# off mine on my Speedster.


14.jpg
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Yup its for the deck drain. I just figured there was a way to get the recall. Still new to what's readily available and cheap in the boating world.
 
I think you've already exhausted the parts cost on the phone, LOL. The nice things about the boats is unless it says seadoo it's just a commercial part. Perko, Attwood and companies like that are all the suppliers of the commercial parts.

I'll see if I can get you some info later tonight or tomorrow.
 
Cool. I'm going looking for one tomorrow.

In the mean time I have a few new observations.

Took the boat out yesterday for the third and final breakin run.

Had a chance to open it up. Turns just about 7000 on an analog tach or just under. Thing is, I'm only at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to hit max RPM's

Any more throttle than that doesn't result in any change, in fact I think it just makes this WOOOOO sound at the carbs and seems almost like its bogging a bit but its just barely noticeable. I usually run at 3/4 max because If push it until the rpm's max out and then back off a bit to stay just under max it seems perfectly fine.

Top speed so far is 34 mph gps. Plugs are black but turning color just a bit now from the higher rpm's.
I'm still on the mix gas and I'm fogging after each run so I don't expect the plugs to change any time soon :P
 
Latest video :)

I look like such a goof :P

[video=youtube;FQ_xxpaPGko]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ_xxpaPGko&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Yeah I had a few out last weekend and they liked to drive more than anything, I'm not complaining :P

I've put a full tank of fresh fuel through it and with some new plugs and they are turning nicely. Black around the ring and yellow-ish on the insulator.

I've noticed that the low speed is rougher now. As in everything before 3000 rpm feels like four stroking and not smooth at all like when I was running the premix break in oil as well. Also there seems to be a hump just off idle that I have to get over. It seems to not take a little throttle and then after a bit more will jump up a bit to 2-3000 but after 3000 its nice and smooth. Coming back down slowly causes it to hang a bit and then drop to 1500.

Could that just be the carbs running straight gas and no oil mix or could it my LS adjustments are way off.

I'm at 1 1/4 on both now.

I've noticed its almost impossible to tell the difference when its running if my adjustments are making a difference or not because idle is always rough in some way on these.
 
You're the only guy I know who reports running a little on the fat side, LOL. Yeah, I think it's okay to be a little rich down low if hot restarts and throttle response are still good. I usually start leaning the idle mix screw if it's loading up at idle to the point idle RPM's begin dropping off and I have to give it more air to keep it cleared out.

Mine's almost too rich too, probably gonna throw the 95 gram springs back in some day.
 
Funny that I didn't seem to have this issue with the extra oil in the tank

I was changing the pop off on my GSX for an experiment since the last time I took the carbs off I dropped the pop off from 38 to 35 just to see what effect it would have and it really was rough and hard to tune.
Now I have them set at 40-41 and well see what that does.

The boat running rich had me thinking. Since the pop off is supposed to be 40-56 for the sportster and speedster why would my gsx with the same engine as the speedster have to be at 38?
I'm trying 41psi to see what kind of difference the pop off will make on it and then probably raise it on the boat if this works good.

I'm mainly just trying to get the low end nice and smooth reving.
 
Mekanix said:
Funny that I didn't seem to have this issue with the extra oil in the tank

I was changing the pop off on my GSX for an experiment since the last time I took the carbs off I dropped the pop off from 38 to 35 just to see what effect it would have and it really was rough and hard to tune.
Now I have them set at 40-41 and well see what that does.

The boat running rich had me thinking. Since the pop off is supposed to be 40-56 for the sportster and speedster why would my gsx with the same engine as the speedster have to be at 38?
I'm trying 41psi to see what kind of difference the pop off will make on it and then probably raise it on the boat if this works good.

I'm mainly just trying to get the low end nice and smooth reving.
Click to expand...

As far as oil in the fuel, two things I can think of is oil displaces fuel so the mix is chemically leaner and the oil might help lube the metering needle slightly but I kinda doubt these should make a noticeable difference in low speed operation so dunno. On the top end it might be too lean, many people argue the HS mix needs to be fattened when more oil is used.

I'm thinking in your case the pop spec difference between boat and ski is likely the air box, one being more restrictive would have a higher pop spec. Not sure if the RV would have the same profile but that might be another reason. I'd think all else equal the low speed jet could be the same orifice if the airbox wasn't too much different.

Different air box is gonna have some calibration differences, perhaps even an RV with a different profile may as well.

One thing you could try is remove the air box and if low speed operation improves that implies mixture is probably a little too fat?

For the 951 carb there are no carb calibration differences between ski and boat as far as I know, mine has the same orifices, etc., as spec'd in the ski manual.
 
I have a leaking front seal on the pump. How hard is it to pull the bearings out and rebuilding without the special tool? I don't mind destroying the old bearings getting them out but how can I get the new ones in without damaging them.
 
Probably about like replacing cam bearings in a small block motor? Looks that way to me, there's just two bearings. I bet you could make a sturdy frame for a bottle jack using just wood 2x6's or something like that.
 
Just did it. Very easy.

Used a socket with a 1/4 inch threaded rod and some washers to push the old ones out and then used the old bearing sto to push the new bearings in. Pretty easy to do.

I just finished adding the self baillers to the cone and the lines inside. Found it to be a biatch to drill through the hull at the right spot but managed to get it. Then sealing was a royal pain.

What is the part number for the driveshaft boot ?

Just noticed how warped it is and would like to replace it and the PTO boot as well but now that the pump is sealed I'd prefer to lift and shit the engine rather than take the pump and driveshaft out.
 
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