Seadoo 95 XP - Ran great... For 20 minutes.

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Almost ready to send the carburetor out for a cleaning/rebuild. :) I hope this all works. Fuel system resotration, new plugs, cut and cleaned plug wire and boots with electrical contact cleaner, carb rebuild, and new oil filter. Do i need to change out the oil line? Or flush the oil line?
 
Just bought a compression tester. Yeah i know its a little late. Ill post the results. I think i read somewhere for the rotax 717 it should be 145-150psi. Can anybody confirm?
 
YES, you should change at least the oil injection hoses, it's an easy job with the carbs. off. If the hoses are black, painted white you have the original hoses, use 3/32" tygon fuel line as replacement, I get it at ACE Hardware, 2' will easily do the job, use small cable ties for clamps.

You are correct with the compression readings, check it with the throttle open, if you have removed the carbs. it's the same thing. Let us know the compression readings.

Lou
 

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Ty for the quick response. This forum is awesome. I'll definitely stick around after the restoration to help out the people with the exact same problem as me. I put the oil injection hose on my list. Anything else I should do to this old XP?
1. Fuel system restoration
2. Carb Rebuild
3. Cut spark plug wire 1/4" and reattach boot. I wonder if i can spray some electrical contact cleaner in the boot and a dab of dialectic grease?
4. Grease bearings after every ride.
5. Replace Oil filter and oil injection hose
 
Thats pretty much it...check the exhaust out too. The older ones are known to shake loose....mainly due to the support bushings wearing out on the bottom part of the pipe.
 
Checking the jet pump cone was one of the first things I did just out of curiosity. Came out royal purple. So i added royal purple. Going to check what kind I used. Hopefully 75W90 synthetic. Going to do a bunch of work today. I'll take some videos of my xp and tigershark so you can see what it looks like. I saw some posts of some restoration projects and I'm impressed. Thats what I want my xp and tigershark to look like but its a long way. Videos and pics of my project coming soon.
 
Ride it like you aint got a dime in it!

Things i wold like to finish this week.
1. Fuel system restoration
2. Carb Rebuild- take off and send to Dr. Honda
3. Cut spark plug wire 1/4" and reattach boot. I wonder if i can spray some electrical contact cleaner in the boot and a dab of dialectic grease?
4. Grease bearings
5. Replace Oil filter and oil injection hose
6. Check exhaust
7. Jet pump cone oil
8. Compression Test
9. Detail- Remove decals, Rubbing compound, polish, wax, buffer, elbow grease
 
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10. Replace fuses
To fix eventually
11. Repair Vts- half a handful of sand in the vts housing when i bought it. :(
12. Grips and hangle bar cover.
13. Decals
14. Speedo and fuel meter. Saw some posts on it looks kind of tough. Never did any soldering and I'm not sure where the paddle for the speedo is... Tachometer works so im ok for now.
 
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How often to do you change the jet pump oil?
The manual says every 100 hrs or seasonally. I do mine every fall just to make sure no water has crept its way in. This is a bad situation if you ski is left in freezing temperatures.

Its not a big or expensive job, I would do it every fall no matter how many hours you put on it.
 
10. Replace fuses
To fix eventually
11. Repair Vts- half a handful of sand in the vts housing when i bought it. :(
12. Grips and hangle bar cover.
13. Decals
14. Speedo and fuel meter. Saw some posts on it looks kind of tough. Never did any soldering and I'm not sure where the paddle for the speedo is... Tachometer works so im ok for now.

If your redoing the fuel lines, pull your gas tank baffle out at the same time. Chances are that you will only need the baffle float for $10, it will be an easy fix. If the fuse is gone on the baffle it really is not that difficult to repair just a bit of time.
 
Hope i didn't mess anything up. Used 75w140 because I thought it was the right one. What should i do?
 
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Got tank baffle off to inspect and it seems everything is good. Filter is still on and doesnt look beat up. Took it off the filter and cleaned it with some gas. the cork is still inside and intact. I wonder if that thing still floats its so ugly looking.

Almost have the carburetor off. Well everything but the carburetor then the sun went down and we headed home to fight another die.

Checked the Compression and the readings were both 160psi with the Actron compression tester i bought yesterday. readings from both openings were identical but I thought normal would be 150 psi. Double checked and same readings. The compression tester does not rest at the zero position. Roghly about 10 psi above the resting position. Didn't see any way to calibrate it. Maybe I did something wrong?
1. Removed spark plug boots and placed on grounding post.
2. Removed both spark plugs. After one ride short ride they are black. I have pictures Ill upload when i figure out this new phone.
3. Inserted compression tester
4. WOT and pressed start button until compression tester needle stopped moving. 160 psi every time both cylinders.
 
Got tank baffle off to inspect and it seems everything is good. Filter is still on and doesnt look beat up. Took it off the filter and cleaned it with some gas. the cork is still inside and intact. I wonder if that thing still floats its so ugly looking.

Almost have the carburetor off. Well everything but the carburetor then the sun went down and we headed home to fight another die.

Checked the Compression and the readings were both 160psi with the Actron compression tester i bought yesterday. readings from both openings were identical but I thought normal would be 150 psi. Double checked and same readings. The compression tester does not rest at the zero position. Roghly about 10 psi above the resting position. Didn't see any way to calibrate it. Maybe I did something wrong?
1. Removed spark plug boots and placed on grounding post.
2. Removed both spark plugs. After one ride short ride they are black. I have pictures Ill upload when i figure out this new phone.
3. Inserted compression tester
4. WOT and pressed start button until compression tester needle stopped moving. 160 psi every time both cylinders.

As long as you are the same comp. +/- 10% you are fine. There might have been some fogging oil in the cylinders still which will give a better seal, thus a higher comp reading.

If there is no visible magnet in the float it is probably at the bottom of the tank, or stuck inside the baffle somewhere. They usually aren't worth repairing. If it is good and has the magnet in there see if it floats in gas, not water the results will be different.

If you find the magnet put it back in the cork, then slide the cork into the baffle and with an ohm meter check the resistance as you slide it up and down. If you have no readings then the fuse in the baffle is toast.
 
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First Day Of Carb Removal

Just some pictures of the XP and the Tigershark.
 

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Yes I did. a minute before i took the picture. Sending the carburetor to Dr. Honda for a cleaning/rebuild and I started trying to get at it today. Nice hood on your avatar. Thats what i want to do to mine. Was thinking about painting the bumpers and nose cone because the purple is starting to bother me. Also the foot well mats have got to go.
 
Good deal! I was like that's missing something!
Thanks for the comments in the hood. It's a carbon fiber piece and I believe it's a watoosee design. It's just like the old Westcoast hoods being that it has holes for the 3 gauges. I painted my factory hood black and the gauge cover metallic silver before I got that hood. Ill post a pic of it when I get off work in the mourning so you can get a idea of what it will look like.
If you want to change the color of the bumpers I would replace them. I don't think paint will hold up.
 
I have complete sets of black trim if you want to do it...only issue is the shipping on the long parts is ~$30.
 
Impeller shaft looks great on the xp. like new. But the tigershark has bad scarring on the shaft and we are cutting the coupler hose which we can't find so using exhaust hose. Any suggestions?
 
How much are you asking for the nose cone and black trim? Hopefully I can purchase it in the near future. The XP is not even seaworthy at the moment and I'm getting ahead of myself. Tell me what you think please. Black trim. Painted black hood hopefully it comes out nice like that black single gauge. hahaha. Rub, polish and wax everything with special detail to the yellow bottom and the white top I heard is tough to detail. Make it pop. Black Tuff Grip for foot wells. Black handlebar pads. Black passenger handle. New Decals. Black handle grips.

This is after I fix the broken VTS and all the broken gauges. If the VTS is not a cheap fix I'm thinking about a manual VTS I read about on other seadoo models that's compatible with my 95 XP. And not to mention the tigershark. Cant even find a coupler hose for it or a seal for the steering rod. Sigh.
 
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