Drive Shaft Boot Missing

[mejim707]

Also notice the splendid shoe install :/

Don’t do drugs. It rots the brain. And screws over seadoos

 

[JeremyD615]

I just use RTV around those tubes myself. I haven’t had any issues yet... Where you get into problems is when people use it all the way around rather than the neoprene seal. It makes it a real pain to remove the pump the next time...

 

[mejim707]

I just use RTV around those tubes myself. I haven’t had any issues yet... Where you get into problems is when people use it all the way around rather than the neoprene seal. It makes it a real pain to remove the pump the next time...

Cool I just grabbed some ultra black for that fitting. I think I have everything. We shall see

 

[mejim707]

I just use RTV around those tubes myself. I haven’t had any issues yet... Where you get into problems is when people use it all the way around rather than the neoprene seal. It makes it a real pain to remove the pump the next time...

I see in the manual to use loctite 271 on the threads of the impeller shaft. I have 518. Can this be used as a substitute? I want to do this right and it seems that's the one I'm missing. I got 5 others and missed this... Geez man. I see why loctite is in business.

 

[JeremyD615]

I see in the manual to use loctite 271 on the threads of the impeller shaft. I have 518. Can this be used as a substitute? I want to do this right and it seems that's the one I'm missing. I got 5 others and missed this... Geez man. I see why loctite is in business.

I believe 271 is the red thread locker and 518 is gasket maker. If that’s correct, then no, it’s not a good substitute... If you have 242, that should work on it. I haven’t heard of many cases where the impeller shaft backed out of its threads...

 

[racerxxx]

No loctite. Put anti seize on the threads. Look on impros website, there are instructions. Solas impellers recommends grease. I've never used loctite and I've never had an issue.

 

[racerxxx]

Guys, no need to quote posts. At least no need to quote mine. Every thread I post on I'm already subscribed. And I'm subscribed to almost every sub category.

 

[racerxxx]

Sorry. Don't take that the wrong way.Lol

 

[mejim707]

Sorry racerxxx, I thought I would use the reply button but if that’s a no no I’ll refrain lol

Ok, anti seize it is. I do also have the 242. Not sure what’s better but I only have a small tube of 242 and a large container of anti seize!

Torqued to 52lbf and moving on.

 

[racerxxx]

Looking good, keep up the good work!

 

[mejim707]

Pressure test. 10PSI 10 minutes. I’m stunned I found a screw, with the correct thread pattern, and hollow!! It’s the fitting that holds your ceiling light to the metal bracket in the electric box. Crazy.

 

[mikidymac]

Never pressure tested a pump ever. If they don’t have water in them when draining the oil I have never seen one get water in it afterwards.

 

[mejim707]

@mikidymac I didn't know that. I was going by the shop manual. I kept asking people for torque specs and things and then said "wait I have the shop manual!" So I checked and it says to pressure test the pump.

I did read some place that "the shop manual isn't always correct" though.

 

[JeremyD615]

You’re not going to do any harm by pressure testing the pump. It’s a good thing to do... With that said, I don’t pressure test them either...

 

[mejim707]

Highly frustrated. I’ve been at it all night. I cannot install the impeller with the boot. Something is too big and causes the boot to squash and mangle when installed. What’s to long / far / incorrect? Have I assembled the boot correctly? Is this the correct one for my 96 challenger?

This has driven me nuts all night. I’m done for now. Please let me know what you think!

Thanks

 

[racerxxx]

Install the boot in the impeller, slide the plastic ring on the shaft, plastic the lip at the end of the splines. Install the pump on the boat. Reach thru the grate (or try and remove) or if you have a weedless grate that hinges, open it and slide the plastic ring over the rubber impeller shaft seal. It will never fit the way you're trying. The boot is meant to fit snug on the impeller driveshaft.

 

[mejim707]

Thanks, I know what you’re saying but I just don’t see how. There’s only one side of the rubber part that can go into the impeller. But the plastic part can not go over the other side. Also, the circumstance of the opening on the plastic part is larger than the lip on the shaft so it can move freely up the shaft.

The only way, I can see, that the plastic part can fit over the rubber boot is how I have it assembled but this is clearly wrong because it’s too long and the boot gets squashed after install.

So, to be clear, are you saying that I slide the plastic piece onto the shaft past the lip. Then, take the ribbed surface of the boot and insert that into the impeller then reassemble. Once assembled I should see some way that the plastic part can affix over the large rubber end? It doesn’t seem physically possible but if something changes after install I’ll give it a go! I guess the plastic could press against the large end but there’s nothing to hold it there.

Looking at the diagrams the boot shown is my shorter than what I received. But it has the same part number.

Thanks

 

[racerxxx]

Trust me, it fits. The plastic ring will compress the rubber near the lip to seal the shaft. If you want, pull the shaft, do the hard work on the ground, then insert the shaft into the pto. So your pump will be assembled with the shaft then install it all.

 

[mikidymac]

As racer says, install the rubber boot into the impeller then put the plastic ring on the boot finally grease the boot and driveshaft and put it on. That’s how I have always done them with no issues.

 

[mejim707]

Thanks guys. I'm going to go with the assumption that the thicker end of the boot is what needs to be inserted into the impeller. I'll see how this is done. The only way the plastic part can actually press against the lip on the shaft is if the rubber part is fully installed in to and the outer lip pertrudes from the end. Otherwise the plastic part can move past the lip since it has a larger circumfrance. That's why I'm wonder if it seems like something is of the wrong size. I'm going to try this again. But to be sure, can you look at this picture and verify that this is the end that needs to get inserted into the impeller?


The only way this plastic part can press and hold against the lip on the shaft is if I install the cap over the rubber boot like the other picture below. If this is not true, I must be brain dead or I have some part thats not right. The shop manual, and parts diagram below, show a boot thats much smaller.


Parts diagram - Part # 2 & 42 : 1996 Sea-Doo Challenger, 5896 Propulsion | Fox Powersports Sea-Doo Partshouse


Really not trying to be a pain. But thanks.

 

[racerxxx]

Remove the pump. Remove the shaft from the boat. Remove the plastic piece. The fat end in the pic where you wrote boot, that goes in the impeller. Then put the plastic sleeve on the rubber boot you installed in the impeller. Now jam the shaft into the impeller. Next, take the pump with the shaft inserted and put it in the boat, tighten the pump nuts and complete the rest of the install.

 

[mejim707]

A few more, notice how the plastic part can slide right past the lip.


See how the larger end can’t install into the impeller


Only the narrow side can install into the impeller but then the plastic can can’t install around the rubber part. And since the rubber part is not inside the plastic cap, the plastic part can simply slip past the lip on the shaft.

 

[mejim707]

Ok, If the fat end goes into the impeller I will do my utmost to shove it in there. It's a bit larger but if I can manage it, that will take care of this.

 

[racerxxx]

Look in the impeller nose, does it look like the opposite of the rubber boot?

 

[mejim707]

Not really... I’m going to find who worked on this thing over the years and smack him. It’s the wrong impeller isn’t it?