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Drive Shaft Boot Missing

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Guys, osd makes a HD carbon seal and you can buy the oem accordion boot for $20. So it's $74 instead of $62. The HD stainless ring is thicker and puts a little more pressure on the accordion boot. They work awesome, I personally have them on my stuff. I really cringe at the stuff on Amazon......unless it's genuine Seadoo. You just have to break from the Amazon-ization of America that you get your stuff in 2 days. It really drives me nuts. Determine what you need on Sunday, order Sunday, will probably ship Monday and you'll have it Thursday-ish, fix Friday. On the water Saturday and Sunday. Rinse and repeat.
 
Guys, osd makes a HD carbon seal and you can buy the oem accordion boot for $20. So it's $74 instead of $62. The HD stainless ring is thicker and puts a little more pressure on the accordion boot. They work awesome, I personally have them on my stuff. I really cringe at the stuff on Amazon......unless it's genuine Seadoo. You just have to break from the Amazon-ization of America that you get your stuff in 2 days. It really drives me nuts. Determine what you need on Sunday, order Sunday, will probably ship Monday and you'll have it Thursday-ish, fix Friday. On the water Saturday and Sunday. Rinse and repeat.
Thanks for that info on this. I actually just emailed them and asking how long it would take to get to CT. I'd prefer using OSD because I'm seeing "better than OEM" on their products. I want to order the carbon bearing kit. I need to bearing set, O rings and the C clip.

Should I also order a pump rebuild kit (comes with neoprene seal and wear ring) as well? How can I determine if I actually need a full pump rebuild?

Everything else I need I can get form a local shop in Waterbury.
 
Email them. They usually have them. Last time I bought them it was the same. I emailed at like 11pm on a weekend. They got back to me in 15 minutes. Told me to go back to the website they just added a quantity. Sure enough they did it right then. They have amazing customer service.
 
Email them. They usually have them. Let time I bought them it was the same. I emailed at like 11pm on a weekend. They got back to me in 15 minutes. Told me to go back to the website they just added a quantity. Sure enough they did it right then. They have amazing customer service.
Sweet! I’ll do that. Do you think I should get the pump rebuild kit as well? How often is that necessary?

I want to do this right.
 
Ok, I ordered;
* DELRIN wear ring (OSD2332)
* Better than OEM neoprene seal (OSD2340)
* Boot kit (OSD516517)
* HD carbon seal kit with O rings and C-clip (OSD2004, 272000184, 293650040).

I requested that it can be shipped today. I'm hoping so. In general though, this is less expensive and much better quality than the Amazon route. If I don't get it by the weekend, oh well. I tried. At least I know the highest quality parts are going in.

I did not get the full pump rebuild kit. I don't this I'll need to do that right now.
 
Ok, I ordered;
* DELRIN wear ring (OSD2332)
* Better than OEM neoprene seal (OSD2340)
* Boot kit (OSD516517)
* HD carbon seal kit with O rings and C-clip (OSD2004, 272000184, 293650040).

I requested that it can be shipped today. I'm hoping so. In general though, this is less expensive and much better quality than the Amazon route. If I don't get it by the weekend, oh well. I tried. At least I know the highest quality parts are going in.

I did not get the full pump rebuild kit. I don't this I'll need to do that right now.
You will also need an impeller removal tool to replace your wear ring
 
You will also need an impeller removal tool to replace your wear ring
DOH! I'll check on amazon for that. Thanks for the heads up. THis will be the first time I've replaced a wear ring. Any other things to take note of?
 
@jts32 I got the impeller removal tool from OSD. They threw it in the same shipment!

@racerxxx you're not kidding, their customer service is spot on! And they're fast. My only gripe is the site says out of stock on a number of items, but they have them. I just fear they're loosing a lot of business because of that. I'll have all the parts by Thursday. Remarkable, and way better quality than what I was going to get on amazon.
 
Awesome, I have no affiliation with them. But I live for customer service. There no phone number to call but, they answer they're emails quickly. I've never had something come in wrong. I'm glad you're happy with it, that's 1/2 the equation. The other half is making sure you got what you ordered.
 
Ok, so I got everything broken down and I've drained the nose cone. I've cleaned everything up for when I get the parts.

I'm looking at the reassembly and I'm seeing 4 different types of loctite required! :0 Are all these necessary? What do you guys use?

Loctite 592, Pipe Sealant, 50 ml - Nose oil fill plug.
Loctite 518, 50 ml - Impeller Housing to Venturi and Nose to Impeller Housing.
Loctite, PRIMER N, 128 G - Impeller Housing to Venturi and Nose oil fill plug.
Loctite «242», 10 mL - Nose Bolts

Can I reuse the current gasket or just get a new one?

I'm still pissed at myself for not putting the required loctite on the oil pump shaft in the MAG. I'm hoping this won't cause big trouble later on. Thoughts?
 
I went ahead and bought all the loctites from amazon. Should have it all by Friday.

@racerxxx @JeremyD615 Can I get an opinion on something? In a different post I had I was working on replacing the oil pump shaft since the one in my MAG was mostly broken. I installed a new one but failed to add the loctite to the shaft. Should I pull it apart again to reinstall with the loctite? Have you guys had experience with this?
 
I really don't use the loctite on the cone. Flame away, nor do I replace the o-ring. . Any who, on the crank.

Did you remove the nut on the crank? If not, you don't need to worry. Just put the plastic drive on and roll.
 
I really don't use the loctite on the cone. Flame away, nor do I replace the o-ring. . Any who, on the crank.

Did you remove the nut on the crank? If not, you don't need to worry. Just put the plastic drive on and roll.
Awesome, this was eating my brain! lol I didn't remove the nut. I just opened the MAG, removed the old broken shaft, cleaned the area and installed the new one / reassembled.

I won't concern myself any longer with that then. I've literally taken the oil pump off 5+ times to make sure the shaft didn't break after use. Slightly OCD about this stuff. But it's good to a point, that's why my car with 220k still runs like a top! I want the same for this boat. It's a good machine, and it deserves many more years of fun!

The O-ring for the cone looks good. If it doesn't typically need to be replaced I won't worry about that either.

I've said it once, and I'll say it again, this community is amazing. Thanks a lot!
 
Most guys probably replace the o-ring to be extra safe. If' you're uber careful it "SHOULD" be fine. And as far as the loctite for the plug on the cone, just use Teflon tape like you would on an air line.
 
Most guys probably replace the o-ring to be extra safe. If' you're uber careful it "SHOULD" be fine. And as far as the loctite for the plug on the cone, just use Teflon tape like you would on an air line.
Ok cool I'll do that. I know they use the same loctite on the pressure regulator on the resonator but I guess that's for heat. Not sure how the teflon tape would hold up. Maybe it would be fine, but I used that loctite on that fitting. I'll just use the teflon tape for the oil filler plug though!
 
The Teflon tape is fine. The other one you did, Teflon tape as well. So, both of those are 1/8-NPT threads. That's a tapered pipe thread, 2 threads are designed to "interfere"with each other to make a seal. That's how my engineering teacher explained it to us in college.
 
The Teflon tape is fine. The other one you did, Teflon tape as well. So, both of those are 1/8-NPT threads. That's a tapered pipe thread, 2 threads are designed to "interfere"with each other to make a seal. That's how my engineering teacher explained it to us in college.

Hey racerxxx, it’s nice to see another engineer on the forum! I didn’t realize you were one of us...

So what your engineering professor told you is true about NPTF fittings, or what some call dryseal, but the standard NPT threads are not actually interference fit, and “should” be used with some type of sealant. When they are torqued down, the roots and crests compress against each other, but only on one side of the thread, so they aren't truly an interference fit. NPTF on the other hand has threads that are tapered differently, and actually interlock so that there is some “crossing of threads” when it is fully torqued down.

We’re not dealing with anything under enough pressure for it to really be a factor here, but I thought it was an interesting tidbit, and like to inject a little knowledge when the opportunity comes up!
 
Thanks for the tips and education fellas! Very good notes.

Quick thing, when I drained the pump oil it was black. I read a post that said "If your pump is in good shape... your oil should be clean and have a Honey color to it. (and be very clear)". It was not this color. Does that mean I need to rebuild the pump? Is the oil being black a common thing? What can I do to check the health of the pump?

Thanks
 
It will be black and stink. The Seadoo pump oil is dark blue. At least all my old bottles are.
 
It will be black and stink. The Seadoo pump oil is dark blue. At least all my old bottles are.
Sounds good. I looked at the bearings and everything looks good. I picked up the genuine seadoo oil yesterday. Ready for the reassembly tonight.

Quick thing, after removing the pump I noticed that the water inlet toob had a crack at the threads so I replaced it. But, I don't see any way this housing where the tube goes through the hull, can really seal properly without some form of sealant. Is there supposed to be some washer around the tube, or should I use the black RTV here?

Thanks
 
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