Drive Shaft Boot Missing

[JeremyD615]

Here’s the dilemma... You may be able to use the same shaft and you may not. It depends on how significantly they modified the driveshaft when they swapped it to the carrier bearing. Normally, you will just use some sandpaper to knock the sharp corner down where the retaining clip would go on the carbon ring setup. If they just did some mild clean up here, then you may be fine. If they went to town with the sandpaper, that retaining clip may not be trustworthy once you go back to the CR setup... You’ll just have to look and see what kind of shape it’s in...

 

[jts32]

Never considered possibly having to change shafts. Curious to know if it was replaced with a smooth shank shaft, or if there is a ring under the bearing. Hopefully it's the original shaft and that ring is in good condition

 

[mejim707]

Here’s the dilemma... You may be able to use the same shaft and you may not. It depends on how significantly they modified the driveshaft when they swapped it to the carrier bearing. Normally, you will just use some sandpaper to knock the sharp corner down where the retaining clip would go on the carbon ring setup. If they just did some mild clean up here, then you may be fine. If they went to town with the sandpaper, that retaining clip may not be trustworthy once you go back to the CR setup... You’ll just have to look and see what kind of shape it’s in...

It looks like this is the drive shaft. (I'm hoping) I see the two groves. Is this what you're referring to? Also, below is an amazon link to the SBT driveline rebuild kit. I see 3 "O" rings but no half clip. Judging by the parts diagram below I'm not entirely sure where this 3rd ring would go. Before I buy a new kit, I'll get this thing pulled apart to see where things are at

SBT Rebuild Kit: https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Dri...dster-Sportster/dp/B00KI3N8D0#customerReviews
Diagram: https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Dri...s/a/sea/500cfc96f870021b3c6a8008/drive-system

Shaft:

 

[mejim707]

Never considered possibly having to change shafts. Curious to know if it was replaced with a smooth shank shaft, or if there is a ring under the bearing. Hopefully it's the original shaft and that ring is in good condition

I agree. I'm going to try and break it down tonight. This will be fun...

 

[mejim707]

Another quick one, should I remove any of the hose clamps from the drive shaft in the engine bay before attempting to pull the pump off? I don't want to cause damage.

 

[racerxxx]

Ok, I'll get the info you need on the carrier bearing. OSD parts has them. They install the lip seal backwards on the water side of the carrier. That way you can't push the seal out like you can on the oem setup. Water can't get in but the grease can spooge out. DO NOT USE ANY RTV TO PUT THE PUMP BACK ON! You need to get the neoprene seal. Do not worry about the carrier seizing on the shaft and ripping the thru hull adapter, again if it does it's an easy fix. Nothing is complicated on these boats. It's fixing the half ass repairs the previous owners did.

If you take your time, mock up the carrier, trim the carrier hose to the correct length you'll be just fine. Do not order any parts until you have it apart.

Looks like you're in Connecticut? Probably 8-10 weeks of boating left? Do you go out every weekend? If your only going out like 10 more times, I'd just wait and do it in the fall.

 

[mejim707]

Ok, I'll get the info you need on the carrier bearing. OSD parts has them. They install the lip seal backwards on the water side of the carrier. That way you can't push the seal out like you can on the oem setup. Water can't get in but the grease can spooge out. DO NOT USE ANY RTV TO PUT THE PUMP BACK ON! You need to get the neoprene seal. Do not worry about the carrier seizing on the shaft and ripping the thru hull adapter, again if it does it's an easy fix. Nothing is complicated on these boats. It's fixing the half ass repairs the previous owners did.

If you take your time, mock up the carrier, trim the carrier hose to the correct length you'll be just fine. Do not order any parts until you have it apart.

Looks like you're in Connecticut? Probably 8-10 weeks of boating left? Do you go out every weekend? If your only going out like 10 more times, I'd just wait and do it in the fall.

Thanks, yeah I’m seeing so many opinions on this. Ok if the neoprene Will do the job and prevent air from getting in then I’ll steer clear of the RTV. I’m still leaning toward just doing the job and sucking it up. I’ll still be on the water in October lol

It’s interesting, I’ve seen where people have said if the carrier bearing seizes and pulls off the hull it’s an easy fix. But at that point won’t the boat just sink and you’ll lose the boat? Where I go the water can be about 90+ feet deep. I don’t think there would be any retrieving it.

 

[mejim707]

Ok, I'll get the info you need on the carrier bearing. OSD parts has them. They install the lip seal backwards on the water side of the carrier. That way you can't push the seal out like you can on the oem setup. Water can't get in but the grease can spooge out. DO NOT USE ANY RTV TO PUT THE PUMP BACK ON! You need to get the neoprene seal. Do not worry about the carrier seizing on the shaft and ripping the thru hull adapter, again if it does it's an easy fix. Nothing is complicated on these boats. It's fixing the half ass repairs the previous owners did.

If you take your time, mock up the carrier, trim the carrier hose to the correct length you'll be just fine. Do not order any parts until you have it apart.

Looks like you're in Connecticut? Probably 8-10 weeks of boating left? Do you go out every weekend? If your only going out like 10 more times, I'd just wait and do it in the fall.

Hey man, so this thing is already loose!! Took 10 minutes. Now I don’t want to continue without knowing if there’s anything else I need to do before just pulling it off. I removed the cables and the water inlet hose in the engine bay. Then I removed the 3 bolts. It’s loose and I can pull it forward.

Do I need to remove anything from the drive shaft in the engine bay or should it just pull fee of the drive shaft?

Thanks!

 

[mejim707]

Ok it’s off!! This was a breeze.

So this is how it looks. There does look like a little rust on the end. Is this too much to reuse the shaft?

Also notice the housing. See that etching? Is that going to cause issues?

 

[racerxxx]

Looks normal to me

 

[mejim707]

Looks normal to me

Awesome thanks. I'm going to work on removing the drive shaft next. It should just slide out yes? And one removed do I need to do any realignment when I reinstall?

I feel like I'm blowing up the forum today. Sorry, please don't block me

 

[racerxxx]

You need to undo the boot on the back of the pto. Then you should be able to pull the shaft out. Then info the one house clamp as remove the hose and the carrier bearing.

 

[mejim707]

You need to undo the boot on the back of the pto. Then you should be able to pull the shaft out. Then info the one house clamp as remove the hose and the carrier bearing.

Thanks. Just did it. It’s a good thing too. Even after the 2.5 pumps of grease it barely made a difference. The shaft was dry of grease where the carrier houses it! And it see what looks like wear lines. I bet it I took it out like this the next time it would have been a big problem even after greasing. The previous owner was not adding grease. Geez that’s sketchy.

Can this shaft still be used?

 

[racerxxx]

Here is the carrier bearing
OSD Sea Doo Seal Carrier Assembly Improved Design [OSD2001] - $39.99

Here is the one with the thru hull adapter and the hose. You could probably sell the aluminum adapter for $20 on ebay. Or email them and tell them you don't need the adapter. If you look at the gray box there is an "add" neoprene seal 140mm, you need that too.

OSD Sea Doo Driveline Repair Kit (Inc Bearing Carrier / Insert) [OSD2002] - $59.99


Here's the boot and ring you need as a combo
OSD SEA DOO IMPELLER BOOT COMBO (INC 271000516 271000517) [OSD516517] - $8.99

 

[mejim707]

Cleaned up. Notice that small groove. Now the manufactured one but the one above. I’m figuring the drive shaft is no good now. Thoughts?

 

[racerxxx]

That shaft is just fine. I'd hit it with some 220 grit sand paper, then a scotch brite pad and you're good to go once you get your new parts.

 

[racerxxx]

If you have to, and that is where the seal rides, just move it so it's just past it if you can. Hard to tell if its deep.

 

[mejim707]

That shaft is just fine. I'd hit it with some 220 grit sand paper, then a scotch brite pad and you're good to go once you get your new parts.

Awesome! So even with that wear groove there I should be good?

If you have to, and that is where the seal rides, just move it so it's just past it if you can. Hard to tell if its deep.

This is the depth. It’s feel enough to catch with my finger nail.

 

[mejim707]

Actually, this wear line is not near the seals. It's directly against the needles. Maybe it won't matter after all since that will be filled with grease.

I gotta say, if it wasn't for this forum I'd be the proud owner of a 96 Seadoo Challenger at the bottom of candlewood lake lol This shaft was dry and the needles in the bearing squeak when I rotate it.

I'm going to get the parts you send me @racerxxx ! You rock man, and so does everyone else here. Awesome community!

 

[mejim707]

Going to order the parts today. Does this driveshaft look like it will support the carbon bearing? The one in the parts diagram has two grooves manufactured into it. This one only has one. But doesn’t seem to be used for the carrier bearing. I’m wondering if this is the factory driveshaft and I could get a carbon bearing kit instead.

 

[jts32]

The shaft on my '96 Challenger only has one groove. I would suspect that yours is factory and someone replaced the carbon seal with a bearing because it was leaking or creating cavitation issues

 

[mejim707]

The shaft on my '96 Challenger only has one groove. I would suspect that yours is factory and someone replaced the carbon seal because it was leaking or creating cavitation issues

Excellent. Thanks for the confirmation. So you said you're using the carbon bearing is that correct? Do you have a supplier / product you can recommend to replace it? I've found this by SBT on amazon. It looks like a complete kit. It doesn't have a brass "C" clip, but has 3 O-rings. I think the larger of the 3 is the one that fits in the groove, and the two others go inside the bearing pieces. Does this look like your setup?

https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Driveline-Challenger-Speedster-Sportster/dp/B00KI3N8D0

 

[jts32]

Yes, I am running the carbon seal setup. I would not use the kit that uses the o-ring as the retainer for the SS hat. O-rings can become brittle and fail. I have used the 757 brand with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Seal-...t=&hvlocphy=9018971&hvtargid=pla-570316647356

 

[mejim707]

Yes, I am running the carbon seal setup. I would not use the kit that uses the o-ring as the retainer for the SS hat. O-rings can become brittle and fail. I have used the 757 brand with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Seal-...t=&hvlocphy=9018971&hvtargid=pla-570316647356

Awesome, I was looking at that 757 brand but didn't know if I should trust it. How long have you been running that bearing for?

While I have everything apart, I'm debating changing the wear ring as well. When I got the boat the guy gave me a new JSP one. It looks good to the eye but have you had experience with them? If not, would you be able to suggest a good one? I'll keep digging as well.

This is the one they gave me;
Seadoo Wear Ring 271000290 + 293200024 Neoprene Seal Jetboat Speedster SPX HX

If that's no good I'll prob get this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK6MNL0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A21LSKNGRF4KPC

Thanks again!

 

[jts32]

I haven't had to change the carbon seal on the boat, but have changed the seal on the skis with good results (same setup).

I haven't tried the JSP ring before, but have tried the cheap ones off eBay, with poor results. OEM would be my go to, or WSM.