jhjesse
Well-Known Member
OK...so I will order the filters to go along with the other maintenance items I have already ordered.
Where would I find tolueen...auto parts store???
If it were easy...I guess we would be wearing "Brownie Uniforms." :lol:
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DI Seadoo Fuel Pump
- Thread starter DooWacka
- Start date
- Status
OK...so I will order the filters to go along with the other maintenance items I have already ordered.
Where would I find tolueen...auto parts store???
If it were easy...I guess we would be wearing "Brownie Uniforms." :lol:
DooWacka
Active Member
Yes, as Bill said, the grit and water in fuel is very tough on the pump. The OEM Seadoo pumps have metal roller-vanes so water can be just as bad or worse over time compared to grit, since the "strainers" take out a lot of the dirt. That is why I am hopeful for the longevity of some of these alternative pumps (like HFF) that instead have non-metal composites internally.
You can get the strainers at O'Reillys also. The Airtex numbers are FS220 and FS242, but O'Reillys have a different manufacturer whose parts can be found under the same number. They are pretty cheap (about $4-$7), so you might not have to order them from eBay.
Thanks for the external filter number, I will have to check it out. I have been using a Purolator F67221 (about $10). The filter has to have a very sturdy metal can to withstand 107 psi, so no plastic obviously. I have contacted Purolator and they would not verify the metal can could withstand 107 psi, which I can understand from their liability viewpoint. Also, my filter has two Oetiker clamps on each side, so I copied the same in my filter replacement. I believe Seadoo does that for safety since any fuel leaks in the hull could be problematic if there were any sparks.
Unlike the "old days", I had trouble finding Toluene at auto stores and big-box (Home Depot etc.) stores. I had to buy a rather small but expensive can at Ace Hardware.
Have fun with your new DI !!
You can get the strainers at O'Reillys also. The Airtex numbers are FS220 and FS242, but O'Reillys have a different manufacturer whose parts can be found under the same number. They are pretty cheap (about $4-$7), so you might not have to order them from eBay.
Thanks for the external filter number, I will have to check it out. I have been using a Purolator F67221 (about $10). The filter has to have a very sturdy metal can to withstand 107 psi, so no plastic obviously. I have contacted Purolator and they would not verify the metal can could withstand 107 psi, which I can understand from their liability viewpoint. Also, my filter has two Oetiker clamps on each side, so I copied the same in my filter replacement. I believe Seadoo does that for safety since any fuel leaks in the hull could be problematic if there were any sparks.
Unlike the "old days", I had trouble finding Toluene at auto stores and big-box (Home Depot etc.) stores. I had to buy a rather small but expensive can at Ace Hardware.
Have fun with your new DI !!
Piper Mike
Active Member
The OEM pump assembly may be expensive but thankfully it is still available for 14yr old machines. Plus it saves you from blowing to smitherines on the water but farting around with this unique high pressure fuel system and aftermarket "experiment" that most dealers won't even touch because of the potential liability.
$1000 well spent IMO.
Edit: If you all can't play nice, then don't play, personal name calling is strictly forbidden on this forum. I'm going to edit what I can. Anymore personal attacks and harsher actions will be taken.
Lou
$1000 well spent IMO.
Edit: If you all can't play nice, then don't play, personal name calling is strictly forbidden on this forum. I'm going to edit what I can. Anymore personal attacks and harsher actions will be taken.
Lou
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While I agree with you Mike that there are plenty of people who shouldnt mess with changing out the pump on these...this isnt the group that shouldn't. If you read through it you would see that there was some success at a few hundred bux.
Do you work at a dealer?
The only reason they are still producing these fuel pumps is b/c they are making a sizable profit on them and they obviously die alot.
Do you work at a dealer?
The only reason they are still producing these fuel pumps is b/c they are making a sizable profit on them and they obviously die alot.
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DooWacka
Active Member
Since Bill isn't responding right away -- I think he means just the pump "in a bowl" without filter screens. The old filter screens are probably full of junk so don't use them. They would not work anyway since the "inner" filter is wide open at the bottom,and the "outside" filter only fits on the module bottom and not the pump. In an ideal situation you would like to filter/remove at least the larger chunks so the pump doesn't suck them up again.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
Ok... I hate to have to do this but.....
To both... I edited the content to make it more family friendly. Please keep things on topic, and no name calling.
Minitonka: I had to pull your last post, so please dont be too mad. You are a great contributor here.
PiperMike: Any input is appreciated... but your comments aren't in line with what this board is. We are here to repair our aging skis... and in most cases... that's also to save money. To my knowledge... no one has "Blown up" a Di ski. If they were that unsafe... they wouldn't use the system. (now being used in cars) Also... SeaDoo didn't make the pump. Airtrax did. So... any of the +100 PSI pumps will work just fine, and you can buy them for a fraction of the price from an auto parts store, over buying them from a seadoo dealer.
This is your verbal warning. If you don't have a helpful post... don't post. Please feel free to PM me if you wish.
Ok... I hate to have to do this but.....
To both... I edited the content to make it more family friendly. Please keep things on topic, and no name calling.
Minitonka: I had to pull your last post, so please dont be too mad. You are a great contributor here.
PiperMike: Any input is appreciated... but your comments aren't in line with what this board is. We are here to repair our aging skis... and in most cases... that's also to save money. To my knowledge... no one has "Blown up" a Di ski. If they were that unsafe... they wouldn't use the system. (now being used in cars) Also... SeaDoo didn't make the pump. Airtrax did. So... any of the +100 PSI pumps will work just fine, and you can buy them for a fraction of the price from an auto parts store, over buying them from a seadoo dealer.
This is your verbal warning. If you don't have a helpful post... don't post. Please feel free to PM me if you wish.
Piper Mike
Active Member
So we are here to chastize and cyber bully anyone who has a safety message or suggesting that someone to buy an OEM part ?
There are lots of reasons to go aftermarket but this isn't one of them. I'm not takling about the pump itself, I'm talking about making all the connections and difficulty in mounting the pump inside securely so that the connections don't come loose. Replacing the complete assembly in this case is much safer.
I do not work at a dealership, I also happened to own a 2001 GTX DI. Both my local dealership and my independant seadoo mechanic told me to just get the OEM unit because of safety issues and liability.
Less than 20% of the people who do otherwise have had $100 long term success. It a FACT.
When it comes to high pressure fuel systems cheaper is not better, but to me safety and reliability is #1 especially when riding alone.
Saying that my post/safety warning is not helpful isn't really fair. If you feel that you want to ban me then you are more welcome to.
There are lots of reasons to go aftermarket but this isn't one of them. I'm not takling about the pump itself, I'm talking about making all the connections and difficulty in mounting the pump inside securely so that the connections don't come loose. Replacing the complete assembly in this case is much safer.
I do not work at a dealership, I also happened to own a 2001 GTX DI. Both my local dealership and my independant seadoo mechanic told me to just get the OEM unit because of safety issues and liability.
Less than 20% of the people who do otherwise have had $100 long term success. It a FACT.
When it comes to high pressure fuel systems cheaper is not better, but to me safety and reliability is #1 especially when riding alone.
Saying that my post/safety warning is not helpful isn't really fair. If you feel that you want to ban me then you are more welcome to.
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It was the "anyone who doesnt have the money to buy OEM should rent or find another sport" part of your thread that was deleted that I had an issue with.
This is a forum, forums are used to connect with other people on options and opinions. You are absolutely entitled to your opinion that it isnt safe, but dont talk about how we need to "find another sport" by not following the status quo and get fleeced by the stealership.
This is a forum, forums are used to connect with other people on options and opinions. You are absolutely entitled to your opinion that it isnt safe, but dont talk about how we need to "find another sport" by not following the status quo and get fleeced by the stealership.
DooWacka
Active Member
Calm down Mike ... everything is OK.
You are correct that dealerships for autos and Seadoos just replace the entire fuel pump module. This is because they get to charge more for a quicker repair and don't have their techs dealing with anything difficult, since it just "clips in" with Quick-connects.
It is not just that people would like to save some money on these repairs, it is also that the Bombardier OEM replacement is the same old problematic design. These OEM pumps tend to fail anywhere between 50 and 225 hours depending on the amount of dirt and water in the fuel. The roller-vane design using metal parts corrodes quickly with watery fuel. The non Oem pumps we are using are of a different design, and use composite parts that won't corrode. It is still an experiment as to how long they will last. However, we already know the OEM pumps don't last, and do not have "100% long term success". So, for reliability when riding alone, these pumps appear better than OEM. Believe me, I know what you are talking about, since I own four of the 2001 GTX DI and have been stranded far from "base" more than once due to fuel pump failure. That is why I was looking for a better alternative than the problematic OEM pump.
Also, some people have the engineering know-how and actually get part of the pleasure of this hobby in getting into the nitty-gritty details of the machine. Like you, I am also very interested in reliability and safety.
You are correct that dealerships for autos and Seadoos just replace the entire fuel pump module. This is because they get to charge more for a quicker repair and don't have their techs dealing with anything difficult, since it just "clips in" with Quick-connects.
It is not just that people would like to save some money on these repairs, it is also that the Bombardier OEM replacement is the same old problematic design. These OEM pumps tend to fail anywhere between 50 and 225 hours depending on the amount of dirt and water in the fuel. The roller-vane design using metal parts corrodes quickly with watery fuel. The non Oem pumps we are using are of a different design, and use composite parts that won't corrode. It is still an experiment as to how long they will last. However, we already know the OEM pumps don't last, and do not have "100% long term success". So, for reliability when riding alone, these pumps appear better than OEM. Believe me, I know what you are talking about, since I own four of the 2001 GTX DI and have been stranded far from "base" more than once due to fuel pump failure. That is why I was looking for a better alternative than the problematic OEM pump.
Also, some people have the engineering know-how and actually get part of the pleasure of this hobby in getting into the nitty-gritty details of the machine. Like you, I am also very interested in reliability and safety.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Sorry to create a fire storm. :grouphug:
First of all, my new to me ski is running fine, but I am sure that it is in need of some good old fasioned maintenance as evidenced from other things on the ski needing attention.
I can afford a new pump when the time comes but, if it can be avoided by some simple maintenance on the OEM pump, then I would rather do the maintenance.
From previous posts in this thread, it was mentioned that you can replace the internal filters and clean the fuel pump by recirculating a mixture of gasoline and toluene through the pump adding years to it's life expectancy. I have never done this before, but have quite a few years wrenching on Sea Doos. I am like DR. Honda, as well as, others on this forum in the sense that I buy project skis, boats etc. and restore them for personel use. Sometimes I need a little advice.
I just wanted to make sure I could run the fuel pump in a bowl of the mixture without the filters being in place.
Man...it seems like everytime I come on this web site to ask a question, I inadvertently stir up some sort of controversy. Maybe I should start asking questions somewhere else.........not sure. Don't know what the problem is???
Many thanks Doowacka. You answered my question. If you are ever in the Chattanooga area give me a shout. I'll buy you a beer!
DooWacka
Active Member
Don't avoid the forum on that account, it seems to rarely happen on this forum.
I think Bill wants to see the "junk" coming out of the pump when recirculating to the bowl. The toluene probably eventually dissolves the larger "chunks" into just discolored liquid. However, you could probably use one of those cheap clear plastic in-line filters with some plastic hose to remove the junk yet still see it. Toluene dissolves rubber hose. The mixture with gasoline is important since toluene doesn't lubricate the pump like gasoline does.
I rarely get that far east, but thanks for the beer offer. Have fun on the water.
I think Bill wants to see the "junk" coming out of the pump when recirculating to the bowl. The toluene probably eventually dissolves the larger "chunks" into just discolored liquid. However, you could probably use one of those cheap clear plastic in-line filters with some plastic hose to remove the junk yet still see it. Toluene dissolves rubber hose. The mixture with gasoline is important since toluene doesn't lubricate the pump like gasoline does.
I rarely get that far east, but thanks for the beer offer. Have fun on the water.
lamajama
Well-Known Member
Just a bump for this thread - I know from reading this that it appeared Justy123 received a faulty after-market fuel pump
and eventually bought the OEM one.
What I'd like to know is, is those that have purchased the after-market version and have now put hours on them - are they still
working, have you had any issues with them, and would you purchase the after-market version again?
I know from reading this that DooWacka had 2 installed before summer 2012 but do not know the performance result.
Comments please?
and eventually bought the OEM one.
What I'd like to know is, is those that have purchased the after-market version and have now put hours on them - are they still
working, have you had any issues with them, and would you purchase the after-market version again?
I know from reading this that DooWacka had 2 installed before summer 2012 but do not know the performance result.
Comments please?
Piper Mike
Active Member
I wonder the same thing. People are singing the praises of these aftermarket pumps because people claim that the originals apparently can fail as early as 50-250 HRS. I have yet to here a single person who has been trouble free for even 50hrs but maybe they aren't speaking up ?
DooWacka
Active Member
Since I have four of the 2001 GTX DI, I will have a lot more feedback by the end of this coming July.
#1 has a GSS-342 (Walbro) pump that only has about 10 hours on it, with no problems so far.
#2 has a HFP-342 pump that has 22 hours with no problems.
Both of these pumps use about 12A (amps) of current so the only problems were when the battery was older and weaker.
After replacing the batteries, both ran great.
The drawback with these models of pumps is that the Magneto/Rectifier/Regulator doesn't generate enough power to charge the battery at idle. The battery will charge during normal use, so you have to be aware and not spend to long idling without some normal riding mixed in.
#3 & #4 have the newer pump that HighFlow Fuel has been shipping (HFP-RTN) (white plastic top) just installed at the end of last summer, so they have no significant hours on them yet. They start and run fine with the new pumps, but I won't have any real hours until this summer. This newer HFP pump only draws 9A, so the battery charges even while idling.
Yes, I would purchase the pumps again.
I will post new numbers by the end of July.
I have also always been looking for feedback on all the rest of the fuel pump rebuilds, but people rarely respond once it is fixed. I did exchange emails with a guy down in Australia that said he had many hours on his rebuild and was very happy. He used one of the higher amp pumps a couple of years ago.
I also would like to hear if Justy123 fixed his problem with an OEM pump, or it turned out to be something else.
Hey guys
I have put 10 or so hours on the ski since putting in the expensive oem fuel pump module. Ski running real nice. Hasn't bogged down, hesitated or stalled out since it has been fitted. Very happy. What I found with both of the high flow fuel pumps I received was that they did not meet the required pressure. Tried both of the aftermarket pumps on the ski and found that running pressure was only about a 100psi on trailer with no fuel returning back to the fuel tank from the fuel rail. Engine running rough also. I didn't even bother taking the ski to the river to test these pumps out as the ski would have bogged down under load.
I even tested these pumps in a bucket of fuel with just the pressure gauge hooked up and I could only get 103 -105 psi out of them. At this psi fuel was bypassing out the top of the pumps. Running pressure of the di ski is 107 psi. I am thinking that the fuel pump needs to put out at least a max 120psi min so the the fuel regulator can do its job.
I just wonder whether it was because I got the new white top low amp draw pump. I think A member on this thread (steve) from aus had trouble with his aftermarket pump too. Could be a faulty batch maybe.
More and more "di" owners are finding themselves in this situation lately as these di machines are getting older.. I think its going to get worse in the future until there is a "true" replacement for the oem module.
I will be following this thread with interest.
lamajama
Well-Known Member
I really hope the 9A pump works Doowacka. I look forward to hearing updates
lamajama
Well-Known Member
With DooWacka's advice in hand, I called High Flow Performance and spoke to them regarding the HFP-342DI
pump. He confirmed that the picture on the website was "not the right one" and the correct pump shipped is the white plastic-topped
one that does indeed draw the 9a. As per DooWacka's advice they will also include, if asked, a short piece of black hose to use instead of the long white flexible hose. That way you can continue to use the OEM spring loaded feature.
He also said it had the lifetime warranty and attributed the issues that Piper Mike (?) had (I mentioned one poster had a few
pump issues) to maybe moreso installation glitches than the pumps per se. He was NOT saying that for sure just that they have
had great success with reliability and that issue was very much not the norm.
I also think it's best to phone-order this piece rather than try and internet order it.
For the $150 personally I think it's worth trying. This is a back-up part for me at this point anyway. If it does not work I'm
ok with losing the $150 vs the $1000. Particularly since these pumps can go at any time anyway. Having the $1000 OEM in
does not guarantee "x" number of hours anyway. If it did - eg 200 hrs, I'd be more inclined to buy an OEM one. I don't
forget the fact that it's the OEM one that fails and puts us in this situation to begin with.
pump. He confirmed that the picture on the website was "not the right one" and the correct pump shipped is the white plastic-topped
one that does indeed draw the 9a. As per DooWacka's advice they will also include, if asked, a short piece of black hose to use instead of the long white flexible hose. That way you can continue to use the OEM spring loaded feature.
He also said it had the lifetime warranty and attributed the issues that Piper Mike (?) had (I mentioned one poster had a few
pump issues) to maybe moreso installation glitches than the pumps per se. He was NOT saying that for sure just that they have
had great success with reliability and that issue was very much not the norm.
I also think it's best to phone-order this piece rather than try and internet order it.
For the $150 personally I think it's worth trying. This is a back-up part for me at this point anyway. If it does not work I'm
ok with losing the $150 vs the $1000. Particularly since these pumps can go at any time anyway. Having the $1000 OEM in
does not guarantee "x" number of hours anyway. If it did - eg 200 hrs, I'd be more inclined to buy an OEM one. I don't
forget the fact that it's the OEM one that fails and puts us in this situation to begin with.
Let us know how you go with that aftermarket pump lamajama. Yeah its definitely worth a try. I may have got a couple of faulty ones. Who knows. All I know is that they didn't work for me. There are many good install tips through this thread from other members which I found very useful.
Wish you the best of luck.
Wish you the best of luck.
Marc Enthoven
New Member
Hi Guys,
This is my first post at this forum, so I am sorry if this is the wrong place to ask my question, but I have a problem with the installation of a HighFlow HF-342 Fuel Pump on my 2002 Seadoo RXDI.
When I replaced the original fuel pump with the HF-342 and took it out on the water it worked fine for about half an hour. Then the engine of the RXDI stalled, due to a mistake in my attachment of the hf-342 fuel pump (hose of the fuel pump came off).
Now, after re-installing the fuel pump (with a improvement attachment), it keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse (which was the reason for the installation of the new fuel pump anyway).
The engine is idling/revving fine on land, but after putting it in the water it blows the fuse of the fuel pump after approximately 2-3 minutes of idling or at speeds at approximately 5 miles/hr. I already tried to install a 20A fuse, but that didn’t help either.
Now my question is, do you have any suggestions what could be the problem? Maybe the regulator? Injection system? Will installing the Walbro fuel pump instead of the HighFlow will be an improvement?
Thanks in advance,
Marc
This is my first post at this forum, so I am sorry if this is the wrong place to ask my question, but I have a problem with the installation of a HighFlow HF-342 Fuel Pump on my 2002 Seadoo RXDI.
When I replaced the original fuel pump with the HF-342 and took it out on the water it worked fine for about half an hour. Then the engine of the RXDI stalled, due to a mistake in my attachment of the hf-342 fuel pump (hose of the fuel pump came off).
Now, after re-installing the fuel pump (with a improvement attachment), it keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse (which was the reason for the installation of the new fuel pump anyway).
The engine is idling/revving fine on land, but after putting it in the water it blows the fuse of the fuel pump after approximately 2-3 minutes of idling or at speeds at approximately 5 miles/hr. I already tried to install a 20A fuse, but that didn’t help either.
Now my question is, do you have any suggestions what could be the problem? Maybe the regulator? Injection system? Will installing the Walbro fuel pump instead of the HighFlow will be an improvement?
Thanks in advance,
Marc
lamajama
Well-Known Member
I'd first suggest reading this whole thread as DooWacka et al have posted some really good info regarding these fuel pumps.
DooWacka is the key go-to guy here for this but from my reading, you may have the older version of the HF-342 that draws
12a and the Walbro draws 12a as well - which is not the best. The "new" version of the 342-RTN draws only 9a. Does your
HF-342 have a white plastic top on it? If so, that's the 9a version at least.
If you are 100% sure you have installed correctly, from what I read here it could be a weakening battery and/or the regulator
but that's a guess. Most posters here suggest that on a DI you will need to take it in to the dealer and have it plugged in and
see what error codes etc show up.
Please let us know what you find, and what repairs your situation. Most often I read the problem but never the solution!
Good luck - and if you find out you need a regulator, there is a number a heavy duty ones available that apparently out-perform
the OEM version and are cheaper. Let the forum know if that's the case.
DooWacka is the key go-to guy here for this but from my reading, you may have the older version of the HF-342 that draws
12a and the Walbro draws 12a as well - which is not the best. The "new" version of the 342-RTN draws only 9a. Does your
HF-342 have a white plastic top on it? If so, that's the 9a version at least.
If you are 100% sure you have installed correctly, from what I read here it could be a weakening battery and/or the regulator
but that's a guess. Most posters here suggest that on a DI you will need to take it in to the dealer and have it plugged in and
see what error codes etc show up.
Please let us know what you find, and what repairs your situation. Most often I read the problem but never the solution!
Good luck - and if you find out you need a regulator, there is a number a heavy duty ones available that apparently out-perform
the OEM version and are cheaper. Let the forum know if that's the case.
Marc
Maybe could be something wrong with the connections on the aftermarket fuel pump inside the fuel tank. Also, I would be checking the entire length of the fuel pump wiring loom from the MPEM to your fuel pump for chafing, damage etc. Something could also be wrong with the new pump itself drawing too many amps thus blowing fuse.
On my xpdi the injectors have their own fuse. I'm only guessing that your 02 rxdi is the same as mine. So I would rule out the injectors.
If all else fails MPEM could be bad i guess.
Let us know what you find.
Maybe could be something wrong with the connections on the aftermarket fuel pump inside the fuel tank. Also, I would be checking the entire length of the fuel pump wiring loom from the MPEM to your fuel pump for chafing, damage etc. Something could also be wrong with the new pump itself drawing too many amps thus blowing fuse.
On my xpdi the injectors have their own fuse. I'm only guessing that your 02 rxdi is the same as mine. So I would rule out the injectors.
If all else fails MPEM could be bad i guess.
Let us know what you find.
Marc Enthoven
New Member
First of all, thanks for your quick responses.I took a look at the bill and it appears that I have bought the HFP-382-SeadooDi at HighFlow, which they indicated was the right fuel pump for the 2002 RXDI.
[MENTION=27645]lamajama[/MENTION] Is this the same device as the HF-342RTN that is spoken off at this topic?
I will try to contact HighFlow with this question as well.
I have taken the RXDI to the dealer last summer, but he couldnt find any error codes,
he only stated that in his opinion it was the fuel pump.
[MENTION=28581]justy_123[/MENTION] I will check the connections as well, injector seems fine.
What do you advise me? Buying a new 342-RTN fuel pump or maybe a new (stronger) rectifier? Both?
[MENTION=27645]lamajama[/MENTION] Is this the same device as the HF-342RTN that is spoken off at this topic?
I will try to contact HighFlow with this question as well.
I have taken the RXDI to the dealer last summer, but he couldnt find any error codes,
he only stated that in his opinion it was the fuel pump.
[MENTION=28581]justy_123[/MENTION] I will check the connections as well, injector seems fine.
What do you advise me? Buying a new 342-RTN fuel pump or maybe a new (stronger) rectifier? Both?
DooWacka
Active Member
Welcome Marc.
Both lamajama and Justy_123 have given some good advice.
I think you should first verify what pump you actually have from HighFlow, then call them.
The 382 is listed as a motorcycle pump and is rather small, so I would think that was a printing error on their paperwork you received. What is needed for any of the DIs is their HFP-342DI kit which actually includes the HFP-RTN pump with the proper filters for the Seadoo fuel module.
Go online and look at the HighFlowFuel.com pictures for each of these pumps and see what you really have. Compare the pump shapes, and color of plastic on the pump top. Keep in mind the picture of the pump on their HFP-342DI listing actually shows a standard HFP-342 pump with a black plastic top. What they should be currently shipping for your DI is a white plastic top pump that looks like what you see on the HFP-RTN listing.
Assuming you have the correct pump, if the wiring isn't shorting somewhere, then the pump is either bad, or it possibly "ingested" some dirt. Did your kit have new filter screens, and was everything clean when installed? Pumps have been known to go bad by requiring more and more current. If you have a electrical "clamp meter", you can measure the current draw without removing wiring, just put the clamp around a wire. Look at your wiring diagram to find either wire (+ or -) that feeds the pump. On mine it would be one of the large wires 4-26 (purple/pink +) at the top of connector 4 on the MPEM. There are 3 larger wires right together on top of connector #4, separated from the other smaller wires. Two of those 3 wires run the pump (+ and -).
A clamp meter is very useful in tracking down electrical current issues.
AC current clamp meters are cheap, starting under $10.
They start at around $40 for DC amps measurement. Here is one on eBay for $37.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Uni-T-AC-DC-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-UT203-With-Bag-/380592530683?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item589d1524fb
Both lamajama and Justy_123 have given some good advice.
I think you should first verify what pump you actually have from HighFlow, then call them.
The 382 is listed as a motorcycle pump and is rather small, so I would think that was a printing error on their paperwork you received. What is needed for any of the DIs is their HFP-342DI kit which actually includes the HFP-RTN pump with the proper filters for the Seadoo fuel module.
Go online and look at the HighFlowFuel.com pictures for each of these pumps and see what you really have. Compare the pump shapes, and color of plastic on the pump top. Keep in mind the picture of the pump on their HFP-342DI listing actually shows a standard HFP-342 pump with a black plastic top. What they should be currently shipping for your DI is a white plastic top pump that looks like what you see on the HFP-RTN listing.
Assuming you have the correct pump, if the wiring isn't shorting somewhere, then the pump is either bad, or it possibly "ingested" some dirt. Did your kit have new filter screens, and was everything clean when installed? Pumps have been known to go bad by requiring more and more current. If you have a electrical "clamp meter", you can measure the current draw without removing wiring, just put the clamp around a wire. Look at your wiring diagram to find either wire (+ or -) that feeds the pump. On mine it would be one of the large wires 4-26 (purple/pink +) at the top of connector 4 on the MPEM. There are 3 larger wires right together on top of connector #4, separated from the other smaller wires. Two of those 3 wires run the pump (+ and -).
A clamp meter is very useful in tracking down electrical current issues.
AC current clamp meters are cheap, starting under $10.
They start at around $40 for DC amps measurement. Here is one on eBay for $37.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Uni-T-AC-DC-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-UT203-With-Bag-/380592530683?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item589d1524fb
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DooWacka
Active Member
I have a "Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide" here:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61195-Seadoo-DI-(Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61195-Seadoo-DI-(Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide
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