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DI Seadoo Fuel Pump

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Ok replaced the clamps with Oetiker clamps and still the same results. So I am now sticking with my original thought that there could be something wrong with the pump. I put 2 Oetiker clamps on the outlet connection and that connection surely can not be leaking now! Pretty sure it is leaking from the top of the pump! See photos... Fuel starts spraying out of what it appears like this area when the pressure reaches 100psi.
What you think wacka?
E-mailing high flow too
 
One quick question? Was that gas? If so do yourself a favor, next time get push on connectors, if one of those alligator clips were to slip from vibration and spark. Well, you can figure out the rest. Not chastising you, just looking out for your safety.
 
One quick question? Was that gas? If so do yourself a favor, next time get push on connectors, if one of those alligator clips were to slip from vibration and spark. Well, you can figure out the rest. Not chastising you, just looking out for your safety.

Looking back at it racer. Totally agree with you. It wasn't the smartest thing I have done! Pump was secured in bucket and I only ran the pump long enough on the driveway to get a pic. Out of frustration, I just grabbed any electrical leads I could find.
 
One quick question? Was that gas? If so do yourself a favor, next time get push on connectors, if one of those alligator clips were to slip from vibration and spark. Well, you can figure out the rest. Not chastising you, just looking out for your safety.

Looking back at it racer. Totally agree with you. It wasn't the smartest thing I have done! Pump was secured in bucket and I only ran the pump long enough on the driveway to get a pic. Out of frustration, I just grabbed any electrical leads I could find.
 
I think we all have done some questionable stuff looking back, just hate to see you lose out on the rest of your riding days. Keep up the good work.
 
I agree Justin, it looks like a pump problem. I was going to suggest sending the pics and description to High Flow as you have done.
Be sure to ask if that is a bypass port, or it is just a pump construction leak, and let us know. Thanks!
 
So Doowacka the pump you installed is the some one correct and no issues on your machine?

I might be tackling a 04 XPDi this spring and am soaking in all the Di info I can get.
 
Fuel Pressure Tester for DI

Doowacka/anyone,
Do I need to pay to download this manual? I dont suppose anyone would have a picture/instructions of this test rig for fuel pressure testing?

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but I had to take some pictures of my test rig.

Yes, you need to pay to become a "Premium Member" (at least for awhile) to download manuals from this site. There are a couple of other places online you can download from, but I can't point you to them due to forum rules.

Here are some pics of my fuel pressure test rig I patterned after the one described and shown in the DI manual.
One of the more expensive components would be the pressure gauge, unless you do like I did and just buy then cannibalize a cheap ($10) automotive compression gauge. The high pressure hose is expensive at about $7 per foot, since it is not normal fuel hose but rated at higher pressure (SAE30R9). I elected to have about 4 feet for the long hose piece, so I can feed the gauge up through the hole the "glove box" goes in, then I can watch the pressure while riding to "catch" the failing fuel pump "in-the-act" and verify the problem. I also use a metal 5/16" Quick-Disconnect tool (shown; red tool) which is much nicer than the cheap plastic versions. The female 5/16" Quick-Connect end actually has a built on disconnect, and is fairly easy to find at automotive stores, along with the hose. The most difficult part to find was the male 5/16" Quick-Connect end, which I finally found on the end of a piece of longer steel fuel line, then just cut off a few inches. The other parts are standard brass connections found at any hardware store.

Since the test tool has quick-connects, you can place the tester inline on the supply line to the fuel rail, to observe starting and running pressure. This "system" test would indicate the pressure in the rail due to fuel pump, air compressor, and fuel/air regulators. You can also perform a loop-back test between the quick-connects of the supply and return lines of the fuel module alone. This tests the pump only and uses the valve in the test rig to provide the flow restriction, in order to verify the pump can pump to 107 psi and over. If I had it to do over, I would use a knob (needle) valve which is easier to regulate than the gate (ball) valve I used.

fuel pressure tool 002.JPGfuel pressure tool 003.JPGfuel pressure tool 004.JPGfuel pressure tool 005.JPG
 
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So Doowacka the pump you installed is the some one correct and no issues on your machine?

I might be tackling a 04 XPDi this spring and am soaking in all the Di info I can get.

Yes, I have two 2001 GTX DI's with the High Flow "white top" fuel pumps, and no problems. I only have about 20 hours so far. I also have a different High Flow Fuel pump (HFP-342; black top) that has been running great, however it has a drawback of pulling 12A current versus the 9A drawn by this newer "white top" pump. My fourth 2001 GTX DI Seadoo has an older install of a Walbro GSS-342 pump which is also running great, but with 12A current draw.

I would love to be putting more hours on my Doos, but we have the same problem, looking at frozen lakes, and living vicariously through our Aussie brothers who are in the middle of summer!
 
We've had a hot summer here in Aus. Most days over 100 degrees. Great for people who have jet skis. Not so good if ya ski is busted up in the garage, with shot fuel pump, and having to turn down constant invitations from people to head up to the river. lol

Nice test gauge doo. Mine is similar but not as neat of course. I think a fuel pressure gauge is standard equipment for a di owner. This forum almost needs a di sub forum just like the 3d has.

Will let ya know what I find out regarding my fuel pump from high flow.
 
As much as its nice to have models all separated like that you just dont get to know as many people. This 2 stroke PWC forum has a following like no other website in the summer which might be smaller if there were more subforums. Ive never even looked in the 3d forum.

Great write up on the pressure tester Doo!!
 
High flow responded to my e-mail and they believe the pump could be faulty. Said it was unusual for this pump to pump fuel from anywhere bar the outlet port. They didn't say if it was a bypass leak or not. They are sending me a new one. Hopefully the new one will work well.
 
Hi guys,
Well I bit the bullet, and ordered a OEM pump assembly from Seadoo on the Gold Coast, which came in not much dearer than I could get one from the states delivered just for the aussies reading this.
My next problem is, can anyone tell me whether there is a special tool/easy way to disconnect the fuel line fittings so I can replace the pump? It is the fitting thats on the end of Doowackas test rig, but it looks like I have to try and stick four small screwdrivers or similar in the female fitting to release the male end. Doowacka, I'm sure you'd understand what I mean, you would undo it to insert your test rig inline to the fuel system. Is there an easy way that I'm just not seeing?
 
I am ready to set this ski on fire

Steve

This is the tool I have to disconnect those special quick disconnect fittings. Can get them from most automotive places. I got mine from sprint auto for around $10. There are different designs out there but they all do the same job.

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I'm like you mate. I just got a replacement pump from high flow today to replace the pump I bought from them a couple of weeks ago. The pump I got today is only a fraction better than the first. They just are not putting out enough pressure. Seems there's a pressure relief valve up top where fuel is bypassing out of.. Engine runs ok on trailer, round 100psi. But no fuel returning back to the tank. Not good enough to even try in the water.

Not sure what I am going to do now. May have to bite the bullet like you Steve and buy a OEM fuel assembly. Any one else struggling with these high flow pumps? Emailing high flow to see what they say.
 
Steve - Like Justin says, there are "Quick-Connect" tools to separate the connections. The cheapest are the plastic versions he has shown. The red metal tool in my pics is the more expensive and durable version.

You could do us all a favor if you could verify the pump part number printed on the side of the pump itself. If you feel comfortable about a partial module dis-assembly, just dis-engage the 3 plastic clip/guides and the electrical connector to remove the module top. You could then use a small mirror on an extension to look in at the side of the pump and read the part number. At this point you could even easily remove the pump, but it may be a little more difficult re-inserting the pump into the bottom rubber filter fitting.

The question we have is: Is Bombardier just using old stock of the Airtex E1067 pump, or did they get a different supplier?
 
I will pull it apart for sure if it will beneift others here. I hate the fact they charge so much for something just because they have the monopoly on the market. The guy I spoke to at Gold Coast Seadoo tells me that they are still making spares, as BRP in Sydney has to order these pumps from Canada and they are getting them in quite regularly. That realistically doens't mean squat, but that's what they tell me.
I ended up paying $850 for mine, but it comes with a new filter as I'm sure you're all probably aware, lucky I just put one on the other day before I ordered the new pump.
I'll pull the pump apart today and let you know my findings.
 
Well I have an update on the pump number. It would appear that Bombardier are indeed using a different pump. I just pulled apart my new pump to have a look, and the number on it is E1114, and under that is 3538A.
Im hoping this helps the rest of the guys out there looking for a pump.
 
Thanks Steve!
Is it still the same look, size, shape, and anodized gold color as the original pump?
One of the worries is that if they are still using a roller-vane pump with steel parts inside, the pump could still have the corrosion issues of the E1067.
 
Its exactly the same as the original pump, but instead of being gold its now silver. Apart from that I can't pick any difference. All I can hope is that this fixes my problem and it lasts for ten years like the original one did. I'll keep you updated, but Australia day long weekend is looking like its a washout, so no testing for another few days :(
 
Okay, well a couple of weeks have gone by since my last post. After trying a second fuel pump from high flow and not being able to get them to work I got a refund from them. To be honest, I wasn't all that happy with there service. Emails sent to them took days and days for them to reply. They also said that no one else had problems with this pump. I find that hard to believe.

Anyways, I bit the bullet and bought an OEM fuel module from a dealer in Melbourne for $1138 last week. Lot of money but if it got the jet ski running, I didn't care! I tested the ski on the trailer. I was very happy. Plenty of fuel returning back to the tank from the return line and I was also getting the correct fuel pressure. 105-107psi.

I hurried to the river and the ski went soooo good! Lots of power. Just how it used to. Didn't bog out on me all day.

Just thought I would let you guys know. From my experience, I can't recommend those high flow fuel pumps. Not sure if there is a dodgy batch of them out there because there are a few people on here which have used them with success.

Next I want to take the injectors out and send them away to be cleaned.
 
I have a pump related problem that i was hoping someone here could help me with. Mine leaks frome the fitting on the top of the pump housing where the lines attach. The piece is rusted and cracked. I have tried to find a replacement but have not had any luck finding just this piece without buying the entire pump. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Since I have a good relationship with my local Seadoo Dealer, I was able to have them call me when they replaced the next fuel pump assembly like mine. They were happy to give me the old module, that I could get all the parts from.
 
DooWacka,
I have a friend that is moving overseas and He has/had a 2000 GTX DI. I purchased it from Him for a song. Now I have a ski to go with my Challenger 1800 this summer. Should be great fun for the kids and grandkids. :)

My conclusion, after reading through this thread several time is in order to keep the fuel pump healthy I should change the internal filters not covered in the manual. I have seen on ebay where someone sells these filters. Is something I should address before summer riding while performing all other routine maintenance??

Also while my Friend owned the ski I helped him with a charging problem(rectifer replacement) along with some other maintenance issues. He wanted to change the external fuel filter, but it was like 72 dollars. After doing some research I found a wix filter from O'Reillys for 4 dollars. Part #33095. I cut the fuel hose ends off and installed this filter with a couple of hose clamps. Works great and can be easily changed annualy for about 4 dollars. Could be something to look at.
 
You can be buying water and grit at the gas station. Its easy to anually remove the pump module and do preventive cleaning, after you done it once, its a breeze. Di's don't like water. Once you take a module apart, that become eazy too. Bench run the pump itself in a mixture of half gas - half tolueen in a bowl, and circulate the mix, and the pump will be like a new one afterwards !!! You will be amaze at the grit ect in the bowl's bottom, that gets in these pumps.

It ain't easy owning a DI !!!


Bills86e
 
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