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Challenger 4tec Upgrade

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1. Where did the pcv vent to in the gtx?
2. Could you be forcing air into the motor somewhere with the s/c?
3. Could you put a barb and a cheap tiny airfilter on that block off plate like you get for the valve cover of a v8?
4. Could you could add a catch can if it is oil regurgitation?
5. Is there a backwards check valve some where in the system letting boost into the crankcase and not letting it out?
6. how about some nitrous?
7. Is your head gasket sealed up right?
8. Massive ammounts of blow-by from new rings (did you get new rings and pistons?)?
9. Does your VW tow rig roll coal towing yer boat?
 
snikwad003 said:
1. Where did the pcv vent to in the gtx?
2. Could you be forcing air into the motor somewhere with the s/c?
3. Could you put a barb and a cheap tiny airfilter on that block off plate like you get for the valve cover of a v8?
4. Could you could add a catch can if it is oil regurgitation?
5. Is there a backwards check valve some where in the system letting boost into the crankcase and not letting it out?
6. how about some nitrous?
7. Is your head gasket sealed up right?
8. Massive ammounts of blow-by from new rings (did you get new rings and pistons?)?
9. Does your VW tow rig roll coal towing yer boat?
Click to expand...

6 & 9 <3 <3 <3 :rofl:

I really hate to bring it up, but is there any chance that there could still be some paper towel stuck in the front oil pump filter? This could potentially cause your high pressure.
2ac12ad8710d7fcf43fa21995acbcbf2.jpg
 
Haha, nitrous not needed, the little Jetta that could only struggles with traction when the ramp is particularly wet. Rolling Coal? Is that what they call it when those diesel trucks pollute our planet with those black clouds? No, it doesn't do any of that. Except the defunct egr valve, this baby is totally stock. I try not to pollute this world any more than I have to. It's bad enough I ride 2-stroke skis and have a boat. I atone by only having fuel sipper cars in the family.

I really don't see how it could be possible that there is any trace of that towel left, though I would not be surprised by anything, given my luck record. I would have to pull the motor again to check though :( no way I would ever have enough room with the fuel tank being right there.
 
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348.jpg

Max speed recorded on the main gauge [emoji3] I'm happy with this speed, now if only I could get more hookup and holeshot
 
Could the crankcase breather filter be getting blocked with pil while your out which is why it's working when you first check and then not after it's been running.

Also is the oil level correct, I imagine you are already aware but don't forget the angle of the engine has a big impact on the oil level and as this is not in it's original home is it still correct.

Andy
 
Oil level was good. It's right in the middle of the marks, so angle should not matter. Please clarify the first part of the post? What is pil?
 
Sorry should say oil not pil.


The angle of the engine will have a big difference on the engine even if it's in the middle of the stick. I would guess the engine should be level when checking.
If the dipstick was at the front of the engine and the boat tilted backward the dipstick may show empty when at the correct level.

Andy
 
Well, the stick is right in the middle, and the engine only tilts back on take off. I don't think it tilts forward much on deceleration, it probably doesn't get much more than level
 
If it's only the crank case vent then why not remove it and any filters etc and vent to outside the boat instead of into the intake. I appreciate this would not meet current emissions regs but as your boat was originally 2 stroke that shouldn't matter. Then as long as the vent is free you will no longer have the issue. Only thing I would recommend is putting it out of site as it will weep oil that's collected from the air leaving the crankcase and putting some kind of loop in the pipe or one way valve in to keep water out.

Andy
 
Being a forced induction engine, I would run the vent hose to an oil catch can. The catch can can be vented to atmosphere. We use them on the turbo cars, and it keeps the oil mist out of the intake.
 
That is def a good idea. But first i need to find out why my crank ventilation system stops venting. I tried hooking up the various gauges I had laying around, but none of them are sensetive enough to pick up the slight pressure increase that develops. It doesn't take much, and I believe at 10psi, the CEL lights up and starts beeping at you. I don't really feel like going out and buying a gauge I'm going to use once, not to mention, I might not even be able to find one that can pick up such low PSI differences.

SO

I've decided to put some of that college learnin' to use. Going to build a simple manometer tube. I'm not even going to care to mark it to measure the actual pressure. I just need to know when it starts building so I can try to isolate the reason once it STARTS to climb. I'll use some clear tubing I have laying around and pin it to a board or something. Here's what I'm talking about:
https://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/ManometerIntroduction.cfm
 
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Haha, just converted 5psi to inH20. It's something like 138 lol Anyone got any mercury laying around? I'll probably use that old spool of injection tubing. I think there's like 10' of it in there. Lucky for me that pipe diameter is not a relevant factor in a manometer.
 
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With the 5/8 hose it doesn't raise the pressure, so the manometer was a huge help. Plugged it right to the dip stick tube. You could watch pressure start to build above 6krpm or so with the 1/4" reducer installed. Not so with the bigger hose.
https://youtu.be/lZOhdBUiRyw
 
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Couldn't easily do a leak down test. Despite the fact that all valves are closed with the engine off, applying pressure to the piston moves it just enough to crack the intake valves and spoil the test. I'll need to pop the pump cone off so I can put a wrench onto the driveshaft. I don't have the little spline tool.

The compression was completely perfect. All cylinders were at 150. Engine was warm and I did not add any oil to aid the test.

I have a hunch that this may be acceptable behavior. After all, the original pcv hose was a 7/8 ID pipe! I will do a leak down test, but also will build a catch can for the oil.
 
No, there is no way to connect it to the super changer. Only connection exists on the low pressure side before the sc, just after the filter.
 
Okay, as long as pressure isn't being piped (somehow) from the SC to the crankcase then it's just normal blow-by. The crankcase vent of course must be large enough to allow blow-by pressure to escape, normally into the puffer intake.

I was just asking if the puffer outlet is (mistakenly somehow) connected to the crankcase.....
 
Yea, I'm really hoping this is in fact normal, but somehow I doubt anyone out there has ever run their boat without the PCV valve to check this. It seems bizare that this much smoke is normal, but then again, this is my first encounter with a 4tec engine, and I don't know how superchargers affect things. The motor has plenty of power and perfect compression. It's hard to believe that the rings are shot... I will still do a leak down test once I get the pump cone off.

I got side tracked last night when I finally got to the nozzle. It turns out that my GTX and the RXP nozzles are exactly the same. The only difference being is that the RXP one has a gimbal ring for trim control and the GTX just has spacers to take up the extra slack where the ring WOULD have been. So having two, I decided to try and port one to a wider diameter, as suggested by my friend [MENTION=52309]MPower[/MENTION]. I used these coarse honing stones I had laying around and widened the nozzle from the stock 83mm to 84mm.
366.jpg

Today, i will go and fill in those vestigial siphon holes with jb weld and sand smooth. Hopefully, having the ability to move more water will give me better hole shot and eliminate the cavitation when I give her full power from stand still. Even when water enveloped the carbon seal and stopped all possible leaks, it still cavitated under that condition. At this point, I can't imagine what else it cam be but improper pump setup.
 
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IDoSeaDoo said:
Yea, I'm really hoping this is in fact normal, but somehow I doubt anyone out there has ever run their boat without the PCV valve to check this. It seems bizare that this much smoke is normal, but then again, this is my first encounter with a 4tec engine, and I don't know how superchargers affect things.
Click to expand...
My 4tec doesnt smoke at all, Only time I get really anything is first ride of the season after fogging it and thats only like 3-5 min worth. I know thats prob not what you want to hear. I'm thinking rings as well if the smoke is constant I can't think of a situation where you would get full time smoke that doesn't involve engine failure some how, IE head gasket or rings. Might be a dumb thought but when you put it all back together did you make sure the gaps in the rings and oil rings and what not were in different positions and not lined up? If so that could allow for a fair bit of blow by and maybe explain but even thats a stretch I feel.
 
The smoke is not coming from the exhaust. The exhaust only has water vapor coming out of it. This is coming from inside the crank case. It appears to have a white tinge to it and doesn't seem to linger. It could still be water vapor boiling out from when I had that bad oil cooler. [MENTION=44178]Nike[/MENTION]1200 Are you saying that if you pull your dip stick while running, it doesn't emit any sort of gasses? Even if you gun it into the higher RPMs?

Can anyone please verify this on their ski? Mine has 207 hours on it. Hard to believe rings are cooked, especially with such superb compression. This is a supercharged motor, seems like when it gets up in the higher boost region the smoke is increased substantially.
 
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