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97 Seadoo Spx build

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Matt Braley said:
Looks like I may need to send you a fuel pump. That fuel rail seems to mount straight to the carbs so it's not gonna pump fuel on its own. Normally there is just a piece of short 1/4" fuel line connecting the two fittings there on the rail. Please PM me that address again if you want a used one. New ones are on ebay here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-High...ash=item5d450ddf9c:g:56wAAOSwRLZT9REH&vxp=mtr.

Just let me know. It is supposed to be mounted independently of the engine because the engine vibration can mess with it. That's what old school racers told me as my ski went through inspection before a race anyway, I've never personally noticed any performance loss. It has to be mounted in a place where the impulse line is less then 12 inches away though. The back and forth of the impulse gets lost after 12" and you will not be able to maintain a consistent idle.

The pumps have two 1/4" outlet lines so you can attach one to the lower fitting of each carb. Then on the return side the racers put a HS #65 jet in the T that will connect the two upper fittings on each carb.
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Thanks matt I'll send you a pm. Very grateful that you gave me this information now so I'm not trouble shooting this thing at the start of summer lol
 
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Got another question. When hooking up the primer I know I use the Reserve line but on the back of the primer what one should I hook the line to from the reserve? Straight or bent?
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Also what line is the reserve line?
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Just checked one of my sleds. The angle barb is the supply inlet.

If you look on your fuel selector it's marked RES, but in case you don't want to it's the line on the top. You can see RES if you look close enough in your pic, LOL
 
Skidoo always ran them right off the main fuel line, there was no reserve on a sled. The had a T in the line.
 
racerxxx said:
Just checked one of my sleds. The angle barb is the supply inlet.

If you look on your fuel selector it's marked RES, but in case you don't want to it's the line on the top. You can see RES if you look close enough in your pic, LOL
Click to expand...
Lol well shit, I owe you one lol, what way would you do it racer?
 
I think most pwc guys do hook it up to the return line IIRC. Those primers can leak air sometimes around the shaft (in the sled world), not good to introduce air into the system. What I think would be trick is to put a small line inside the fuel baffle with a sintered filter (like the weighted ones on a string trimmer) on it and use some type of hose barb to connect to the outside of the baffle. That way you're not compromising any fuel delivery. But Braley would know best. Several ways to skin a cat.............
 
If you put it in any line, make sure it's at a 'low' spot in the line. Mines in the return line above the baffle and there's never any fuel in it to draw into the primer. Doh.
 
Put it on the reserve line. Any other line and you won't get any fuel. I put it in the return line in both my skis at first and never could get fuel.....unless it had been ran. Which defeats the purpose of a primer. Moved it to the reserve line and it works perfect. I've even run the ski on reserve with it t'ed in there and it runs fine.
 
It's all been covered above but I'll just recap. The primer draws fuel in the angled barb and spits it out through the straight barb. You can put a finger over those fittings to confirm. It will only draw in one and only spit air out of one while you hold it in your hand to test.

Those primers are crap now and can't be trusted. The old ones would last five years at least, now they spit gas at me while I'm pumping them in the first year sometimes. WFO noticed this a couple years ago and I saw it myself soon after. It might be ethanol but I think another Chinese company just got the contract that has lesser quality control. The racers have moved to these button primers http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRIMER-KIT-...ash=item2362e5139f:g:qVEAAOSwB4NWv8yY&vxp=mtr I've installed my first one in my black XPL and it works pretty good.

Since we know the traditional primer will fail you want to keep it off your supply line. If you run on the ON channel and only use the RES for emergencies then the RES is a good place. Otherwise I do it like 1 of 500 said (originally taught this by Crockett on pwctoday may he RIP) I loop the return line and put my T in the bottom of the loop. That way there is always a few squirts worth of fuel there and there is zero risk of loosing an engine from the primer drawing in air. I tried a low spot in the return line at first on the Zebra ski and like Suke I was never able to get any fuel pumping when the ski had been sitting (when you need it most haha).
 
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Ok what am I missing? Trying to get the throttle cable hood up and I'm out of adjustment and carbs are every bit of 1/2 open.....
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You need a 8mm nut on that top starter bolt.

But I see pump blocks under that fuel rail now! Lets do a quick test. When your engine will spin over from battery power run a 1/4" hose from the impulse fitting on the case to a T that connects to both fuel rail fittings. Then T the line to the lower carb fittings. It can go to the tank or just a little jar of fuel. See if it draws the fuel in as the engine spins over.
 
Matt Braley said:
You need a 8mm nut on that top starter bolt.

But I see pump blocks under that fuel rail now! Lets do a quick test. When your engine will spin over from battery power run a 1/4" hose from the impulse fitting on the case to a T that connects to both fuel rail fittings. Then T the line to the lower carb fittings. It can go to the tank or just a little jar of fuel. See if it draws the fuel in as the engine spins over.
Click to expand...
Matt there are pump blocks under the fuel rail. I can do that test when I get to the point of putting power to the ski. Do you think I really need the extra fuel pump? I have not put the rear eBox and yet because I'm waiting on the exhaust tip
 
They do have diaphragms in them. If you think it's a must I will just buy that fuel pump. 1st timer here lol...I'll use your work lol
 
No don't buy it. It sounds like you already have a pump for each carb. Just T the two fittings and connect it to the pulse fitting on the case without kinks and with as little hose as possible.

Your two lower fittings will be connected with a T and connect to the fuel filter/water separator. Your two upper fittings will be connected to a T with that #65 main jet screwed in the single end. From there it goes to the RET barb on the fuel baffle.
 
I use strong zip ties. Just make sure they are tight and they will be fine. I get in there with a pair of needle nose and get every last click before I snip the tails off.
 
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