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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
- Thread starter Bonmotwang
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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You want the 100% synthetic, as specified in the owners manual. You cannot mix the two oils or they may cause clumping and plug the oil strainer filter, it's a lerge mesh filter element below your tank that strains out large particles, it's made specially to strain 2 stroke oil, it's not a standard fuel filter. It can clog with clumps if the oils are incompatible. This is why you have to clean the entire system, there are atrticles covering this subject.
Also, there is another oil I think is acceptable and now is the time to research it (before purchasing oil), Quicksilver synthetic with low ash additive package )sometimes Wall Mart has this on shelves in the local area here, perhaps CT has it near you. The basic difference between the wrong oil and the correct oil for the Rotax 951 is it must be a synthetic 2 stroke oil with metallic salts additive package, it's called "low ash", details are in your owners manual, low ash has metals that are sacrificial and combine to provide scuff resistance in high heat conditions, ashless outboard oil cannot provide the necessary amount of friction protection under the heat conditions present in the Rotax 951 engine.
Bonmotwang
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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It's a special gift! (jk), it's the infamous fuel water separator cup that unscrews and then leaks air and makes your motor run horribly as air gets sucked into the fuel lines.
Unscrew the cup to clean and check for water contamination, the plastic cup can crack and the o-ring inside is known to leak if the cup is not tight, the threads can strip or the cup can crack if overtightened.
This device deserves your respect, it's job is to keep trash from migrating from the fuel tank into your carbs, it CAN cause running problems if it leaks air inward.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Rule-Mate is the bilge pump to remove water from your bilge and push it overboard out the starboard thru-hull fitting.
The joke is, this device can be used to increase bilgewater circulation.
The joke is, this device can be used to increase bilgewater circulation.
Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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I do not know if the filter is a coalescer filter or not. If it is, it is designed to stop water. A coalescer filter normally does it's job very well and once there is water against the screen fuel will not make it through the filter. It is suppose to gather against the screen until there is enough to create a droplet. Once the droplet is heavy enough it falls to the bottom and stays there for the simple fact that water is heavier than fuel.
If you cleaned the filter with water, it can trap water within the filter and cause a hard time to get fuel through it.
So either blow it dry with a compressor or pour a bit of fuel into the inside and let it run through the filter.
If you cleaned the filter with water, it can trap water within the filter and cause a hard time to get fuel through it.
So either blow it dry with a compressor or pour a bit of fuel into the inside and let it run through the filter.
Bonmotwang
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I will dry it and put it back. But is the inner filter opening is facing up? And do I need to fill it up with fuel before I put it back?
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Bonmotwang
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Red black and blue wires are for the add on fish finder and CD player. I should add a cut off switch to prevent it from draining the battery.
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You already have a cutoff switch. its right there in your pic. Looks like the wires go to it. Pull that battery switch out and make sure the positive wires for accessories are on the common post with everything else.
Good lookin boat by the way. glad you got it into your garage. I didnt think it looked very safe on the street in that hood you live in.
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Yep,, sorry so slow,, got busy...
Bonmotwang
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Call the day.
Getting dark. I moved the boat in garage. Bilge drain still has water coming out.
Super clean did most of the work. I will clean the corners and details later when I have time.
I left the garage door open and have a fan blow into the engine bay to dry the water left on the wire harnesses and electronic boxes.
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Getting dark. I moved the boat in garage. Bilge drain still has water coming out.
Super clean did most of the work. I will clean the corners and details later when I have time.
I left the garage door open and have a fan blow into the engine bay to dry the water left on the wire harnesses and electronic boxes.
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Bonmotwang
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You already have a cutoff switch. its right there in your pic. Looks like the wires go to it. Pull that battery switch out and make sure the positive wires for accessories are on the common post with everything else.
Good lookin boat by the way. glad you got it into your garage. I didnt think it looked very safe on the street in that hood you live in.
Thanks.
The PO did not connect the cd and fish finder after the cut off switch. They got connected to the battery directly.
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Bonmotwang
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Can the pump totally drain the water inside the bay? It still have some water at the bottom. Do I need use a rug to get the bottom dry?
Is the water in the bottom going to damage anything?
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Bonmotwang
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No problem. But when I unscrewed the cup, the filter drop off by itself. Is the cup holding it up, or the filter needs to be friction fit?
Note: When I put the filter back, it stay up there by itself.
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Bonmotwang
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Yes I cheaped out. :-D.
Do I need that much of super clean? I am not pouring this stuff into the engine bay, or should I?
I was spraying at the spots where I needed to clean. I also used a brush for the big surfaces.
This super clean is so "powerful". Is it going to "eat" off any plastic or rubber?
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Bonmotwang
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Wow, that looks so much better, like night and day! Okay guys, I'm a convert from bilge cleaner to superclean, you convinced me!
That fuel filter is just a nylon screen, don't spray it with carburetor cleaner, I'm not sure if the screen will melt from acetone attack. I just blow it out with gentle blasts of compressed air but this one looks clean already.
Optional fuel filter/water separator leak test:
If you turn off the fuel valve, the fuel line can be blown into backwards by removing the fuel line from the carburetor fuel pump connection then blow from the open hose end to make sure/test it the water separator cup is well sealed. There should be no leak, no loss of pressure. Then you know it's leak tight, reconnect fuel line to carburetor fuel pump back to where it was.
That fuel filter is just a nylon screen, don't spray it with carburetor cleaner, I'm not sure if the screen will melt from acetone attack. I just blow it out with gentle blasts of compressed air but this one looks clean already.
Optional fuel filter/water separator leak test:
If you turn off the fuel valve, the fuel line can be blown into backwards by removing the fuel line from the carburetor fuel pump connection then blow from the open hose end to make sure/test it the water separator cup is well sealed. There should be no leak, no loss of pressure. Then you know it's leak tight, reconnect fuel line to carburetor fuel pump back to where it was.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Some small amount of water in the bilge will not hurt anything, a sponge or turkey baster can be used to absorb the last few drops. Prop open the engine cover if possible so it can dry inside, the engine and electrical harness likes low humidity (trapped moisture for long periods can cause corrosion).
The bilge pump is there to keep the boat from sinking in the lake (joke: and keep bilge water recirculating).
Bonmotwang
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So the bilge pump kicks in by a float sensor somewhere then.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Yes, this model has an internal water sensor, I believe it's a float switch type(good design). You can also control it manually from the helm switch, so don't forget to turn off the switch. The pump is quiet, too quiet for me to hear from the helm. Turning off the battery switch disables the bilge pump automatic feature, so your boat can sink if the battery switch is in the off position, and bilge water recirculation doesn't work either.
Bonmotwang
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