2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Waterluvr]

You would need a new head gasket and possibly the o rings if you pulled the head and wanted to put it back on and torque it down with the intention of running it again. In your case, that would be a waste of one good new head gasket.

I agree with Sportster 2001, that engine has been in service to long at this point to consider just rebuilding the top end. Decide how you're going to lift the motor and in the mean time start applying penetrant to the motor mount bolts to help get them free when it's time.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just checked sbt's premium 947 for sportster: $1495.
2 years warranty.
It look like this is the best back up and worst case for me?
If I keep running the boat as is (more oil, tune to rich side), when it blows up, is the SBT premium all I need to fix the boat?




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[Bonmotwang]

Decide how you're going to lift the motor and in the mean time start applying penetrant to the motor mount bolts to help get them free when it's time.

I have an engine hoist which will do the lift.



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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Decide how you're going to lift the motor and in the mean time start applying penetrant to the motor mount bolts to help get them free when it's time.

Good point, I think money is well spent on a simple chain hoist and associated hardware, I suppose they can be rented but I think I paid under $50 for my little one that can easily lift most any boat engine. Normally I just use the forklift, LOL, but hardly necessary in this case.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just checked sbt's premium 947 for sportster: $1495.
2 years warranty.
It look like this is the best back up and worst case for me?
If I keep running the boat as is (more oil, tune to rich side), when it blows up, is the SBT premium all I need to fix the boat?




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More reading tells me SBT is also need my working old engine for the "new" engine. So on the price tag SBT and full bore is kind of same to me. And I have no option to blow up my engine either way LOL


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Check out SES too, Squirrel has bought several 951's from them.

 

[Waterluvr]

More reading tells me SBT is also need my working old engine for the "new" engine. So on the price tag SBT and full bore is kind of same to me. And I have no option to blow my engine either way LOL


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Here's the thing, SBT builds all there motors production line style to accommodate the worst cores in the building and they lump all the decent ones right in with them. Sure, they warranty the motor and it's no fault. They can afford to, there's lots of corners being cut to pump those out the door and they bank on the average yearly hourly usage of most PWC's to come in well under the 50 hour mark and substantially lower in most cases.

Bottom line, they don't have to eat to many of those in two years time because they don't see enough hours on them. You won't be getting 13 years of trouble free service out of one.

You're going to have to place some trust in me on this one, after 30 years of repairing other people's problems on their boats at great expense you couldn't give me an SBT engine to install in mine (or yours) free of charge. I really wouldn't install one if it cost nothing.

Why? Because 8 year olds turn into disinterested teenagers in a real hurry and you're better off getting back on the water for those years than looking at the boat sitting in the garage needing it's 3rd or 4th motor.

Get your original Rotax rebuilt properly at Full bore or SES and get back to having fun with the boat next year, the parts they are going to install and the quality checks they put in place are going to have your motor back to you in a condition that in my opinion would exceed the life expectancy of it when it left the factory the first time around.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Check out SES too, Squirrel has bought several 951's from them.

How do I know if the engine has or has not been rebuilt in the last 13 years?


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[Waterluvr]

How do I know if the engine has or has not been rebuilt in the last 13 years?


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The piston sizes will be clearly marked on the top of them indicating a stock size or overbore, for anything more than the first overbore size the rave valves need to be shortened for piston clearance as well. Rebuilders also tag their motors for warranty reference.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I just wanted to throw in that Squirrel has been sourcing his 951's from SES and says they take his punishment without fail. Squirrel apparently burns 100's of gallons of fuel and 10's of gallons of oil per season so I base my conclusion heavily on this account, that SES can build a decent 951 motor.

There are othe builders as well, Full Bore also has a great reputation. In the case of SBT, I think Waterluvr has them nailed pretty well, I hate to see these engines compromised that way.

 

[Bonmotwang]

This 2 years warranty thing from SBT is really a bank trick lol. Now I get it.
Reading SES right now.

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[shuka]

Tah tah

Meter is in position!

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This what i did with my depth finder, water temp, air temp, and dual battey life meter

 

[Bonmotwang]

This what i did with my depth finder, water temp, air temp, and dual battey life meter

That is very nice. I mean your workmanship.

My fish finder is not measuring depth correctly especially when driving on the plane. I think the sensor is mounted too high.

But I like your depth meter. Can you give me a link of your part?


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Good job on the wiring layout Suka, nicely done! Faria makes excellent gauges, often found in high end boats.

Location of the depth finder sensor is critical, it can make or break the function and sometimes finding the best location can be a challenge.

 

[shuka]

http://www.amazon.com/Faria-Chesape...405393567&sr=8-4&keywords=faria+depth+sounder

Thanks i did work on the sound system and all electronics for 2 months until i got it right and my wife put a stop to my spending. The sound system is ridiculous 8- 6 inch kicker with 10 inch bazooka tube and two 600 watt amps. The only thing is the boat takes a long time to charge both batteries with isolater i know there is no alternater but how do the battery get charged?

Also i think this is how i give you the link if its not correct sorry let me know if it worked.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It's just an 180 Watt permanent magnet magneto with SCR switches in series with rectifier bridge and simple voltage regulator to trigger the SCR's. In the case of the carbed 951 engine the rectifier/regulator is integrated into the MPEM, the 3 phase AC comes into the MPEM on three yellow wires from the magneto under the front cover

Similar to this:

 

[Bonmotwang]

Got RAVE valves all cleaned up.

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[USAF_Pride]

How'd the oven cleaner work for you?

 

[Bonmotwang]

How'd the oven cleaner work for you?

I used super clean on the metal parts, kitchen detergent on plastic and rubber.
Also steel wool did the tough work. :-D


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[Bonmotwang]

Got the RAVE values back on. Before cover up the ports, I didn't a closer look into the piston skirt. The rings look ok, not as dull as the picture shows. And carefully checked at every square mm I can see. There is no signs of cracking. I also used a small long screw driver to "feel" the surface. It is smoother than I expected. I thought I will be able to feel the "scored lines", but I couldn't feel there is deep lines. So those lines are on the surface and probably new.

The boat throttle cable was loose, the full throttle was only 3/4 open. So the PO probably hasn't seen 100% throttle for a while. And I tightened it, so that I can reach 6500PRM.
The engine tends to run away on the trailer. And the RAVE has never been cleaned in its life, but looks much "cleaner" than many 200/400 hours RAVE valves I found online.

You can see where I am going :lol:
I think I will take a risk and still run the boat a couple of more hours this season. But I will try to fix the trailer run away issue to get the engine to rich side and add XPS II oil into the tank at 80:1 ratio.

Also did a compression test at the same time, this time I got 120 and 125 when engine is cold (sit for a week now), but with oil added directly through the spark plugs.

I will do compression test after every trip to have some kind of monitoring. and will stay at 5500PRM top too.

More seriously, I do love boating. After looked at FULLBORE or SES's good stories about the rebuilt engines, I am thinking about a 18' challenger 1800. My garage will take it if I install hinge to the trailer.
It has more room as a family boat. And 18' is absolutely the biggest I can put in the garage if I still live in town, which is true before boys go to universities.

Here comes my evil thinking :-D : sell this sportster after the season and start looking for a 18' challenger at $6000 to $8000 range. And stick to it and do good maintenance on it if I am lucky to be able to get a decent one, then buy two rebuilt engines down the road if signs come up.

Sound like crazy? :drool5:

But man, jet boats are fun. Is asking for bigger my fault?:lol:

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I think this boat would be more fun fixed up than an 18' challenger. They are beautiful boats, but are bigger, heavier and have two of those gas-guzzling, rave-eating 787s. I love my single 14' challenger and am about to drop a 4tec in it b/c I just can't deal with the 787 problems anymore.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I didn't read all the posts, but saw that you're thinking of rebuilding the top-end. The good news is it's fairly easy and you don't have to pull the motor to do it. If you do want to though, the cheapest way to do it is to bold a trailer winch to the wall and hang a small pulley from a ceiling beam (if you have one). $25 for the winch and $5 for the pulley. Those 2-stroke motors only weigh like 100lbs. This works almost as good as a chain-pulley system. The only downside is it's cumbersome for one person to do it alone, but if someone can give you 5 minutes of their time, it's perfect. Just make sure you attach it really well to the wall.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I think this boat would be more fun fixed up than an 18' challenger. They are beautiful boats, but are bigger, heavier and have two of those gas-guzzling, rave-eating 787s. I love my single 14' challenger and am about to drop a 4tec in it b/c I just can't deal with the 787 problems anymore.

Thanks for the feedback. I thought challenger is more powerful and perform better than my sportster LE. I do want more space though. My two boys are just too active in the boat. And they like to lay down and eat chips in the boat. :-D


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[Bonmotwang]

I didn't read all the posts, but saw that you're thinking of rebuilding the top-end. The good news is it's fairly easy and you don't have to pull the motor to do it. If you do want to though, the cheapest way to do it is to bold a trailer winch to the wall and hang a small pulley from a ceiling beam (if you have one). $25 for the winch and $5 for the pulley. Those 2-stroke motors only weigh like 100lbs. This works almost as good as a chain-pulley system. The only downside is it's cumbersome for one person to do it alone, but if someone can give you 5 minutes of their time, it's perfect. Just make sure you attach it really well to the wall.

Good to know. Didn't know the engine is that light. I do have a engine hoist. Should do the job ok I think.

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[Waterluvr]

Do us a favor, install a Go Pro cam in the bilge on the port side of the motor for your next trip out on the water and improvise some manner of lighting for it?

I've never actually witnessed a Rotax transition from scoring and aluminum transfer stage to more progressive piston slap and rod through the case but the video would be AWESOME! Or not, I mean they don't make these engines anymore and it's really a shame to sacrifice the original motor in rebuildable condition when that happens, especially if your crank is still good.

But that's exactly what's going to happen to you, probably sooner than later.