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1995 XP Rebuild

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First, what oil are you using?

What have done it hold the filter vertical and tap it over an over and flick it with your hand. If this doesn't work then remove the hose to get the air out. It will make a small mess but you don't want that air in there.
 
I'm using Lucas 2-cycle land & sea says it meets the API TC requirements but now I'm starting to second guess myself... I read somewhere saying Lucas should be fine? I really hope it is.
 
Ok just disconnected the hose now and the air is all out! Soon as the last little bubble came out it smoothed right out... not sure if that's meant to happen or not. Next step is the pump going to hopefully go to a guy local to me and get it aligned but MAN I just wanna ride this thing!
 
I have to get the motor driveshaft and pump aligned with that special tool thingy. I never wrote down how the shims were under the motor so I guess I have to do it all again. Plus its a different engine.

Also when I put the key on it doesn't beep anymore and none of the gauges do anything and the VTS doesn't work. Probably just blew a fuse but who knows
 
Nope... turns out i just wasnt paying attention when that was all happening. Came back out after dinner and all was fine everything seems to work. Except the oil sensor thing but I knew that from when I got it as the one end had a paperclip in it.
 
Well it was a somewhat exciting day today! Got the Ski to the lake for the first time, it floats which is good, doesn't take on water. It ran... kind of. I could get it going for awhile and it was super choppy and was bouncing around 600-650 rpm. I kept messing with the idle speed adjuster but it seemed like nothing would do it. At one point it got up to around 900rpm and was a bit better but I kept trying to get it figured out but nothing seemed to work. Then I let it sit for awhile and it wouldn't kick until I put fuel down the carbs. So my question is What do I need to do? Adjust the low speed screw or turn the idle adjuster pretty far in? Any tips help guys thanks! And also what tools do you guys use to mess with the screws on the lake? it seems pretty hard to turn them while your on it and seems like you need a 90 degree screw driver or something? or just a little ratchet with a flathead bit? Thanks guys sorry for the long post
 
The low and high screws don't need to be messed with once they are set.
If you back the idle screw out until it barely touches the throttle arm then turn it in 2 full turns it should get you close. Set idle is 3,000 rpm out of the water and that will be 1,500 in the water and you should not have to mess with it after that.
 
So it idles good now. Fires right up. But I tried to give the throttle a little blip a few times just to see if it would rev up slightly but it just bogs down. I can slowly build the revs but it doesn't seem right. Not sure what to do... its a brand new engine and I just rebuilt the carbs. I set the screws to stock and everything. Just wondering if there is something I'm missing here. It had an aftermarket intake on it before would the jets have been changed or messed with?
 
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So I took apart the carbs again, tried taking out the jets and I almost stripped one of the main jets. I got it out just fine, but I don't want to reuse it. I also don't even know if they are the right jets. So, I'm looking at new ones but the parts catalog says a 137.5 main and a 67.5 pilot and seadoosource says a 135 main and a 67.5 pilot... which one is right? I have a 95 XP, maybe I just go up to the 137.5? Also I have no idea where to get them from
 
It’s been a long time since I checked the jets on my 95XP, but I think it’s a 135 main... If you take a magnifying glass to the ones out of your carb, you should be able to see a number on them...
 
Rebuilt the carbs again... got it all back together. It wouldn't start by itself but then I put a little premix in the carbs and started it and it just revved sky high it hit about 5k and then I shut it off immediately. Waited a bit and tried to start it again and same thing... I have the carbs set properly with all the stock measurements. Idle screw 2 turns in. It seems like its just running lean? I really have no clue and I'm getting fed up with this thing.
 
Pull your carbs again and check the gaskets between the carb and manifold. If they’re folded over it can run away like that.
 
They didn't seem like they were but the gaskets seemed really thin. So I used other gaskets I had from an intake kit which were thicker.

Before I give it a start... do I need to put a gasket or loctite between the carbs and the flame arrestor base? The shop manual says to use some 515, but I think I've seen before that nothing is needed?

Also, I have air out of all the oil lines except for the little lines that go into the intake. Does the bleeder need to be open for these ones or do I just wait for that little bit of air to go through once its running?

Could this little bit of air be the reason it tried to run away on me?
 
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Tried to start it again... thought I had it right because it was idling (sort of, probably at like 500rpm) and then I realized that the gas was off. So I turned on the gas and it went straight up to redline again. Really don't know what to do here.

EDIT: Went back out again and tried to be less scared of breaking something. It fired right up with no choke at a super low rough idle... but then I pulled the choke and it went right up to redline. I'm VERY confused, too much gas or too much air?

I'm thinking I should take off the intake again and go through it all to be 100% sure of o rings and everything in the right place.
 
It’s definitely lean. I think you’re on the right track pulling the RV cover and making sure things are sealed up.
 
Could it possibly be the fuel selector too?
I've also changed every fuel line except for the 2 vent ones which are still gray. Could those be plugged and cause this?
 
You can get air in the fuel lines from a leaking selector, so if it hasn’t been changed, go ahead and do it. I think you’re probably looking at a leak somewhere past the carbs though since it’s wanting to run away.
 
Checked the RV cover over again and got a new fuel selector. Took it down to the water and it was idling low at first, then I tried to raise it up a bit and it was idling at 1000 on the seadoo tach and 1250 on my electronic one that's wrapped around a plug wire. Not sure which to trust. Let it idle for a while, but this was after some time of cranking it without it starting so that battery was low, but after idling it for a few minutes the battery light still didn't go off. I tried to gradually increase throttle to test it out and it raises by about 500-1000 rpm and bogs down low or just dies after a while. Any ideas? Seems like its idling good, but can't give it throttle at all.
 
I’d trust the inductive tach over the stock one. Have you tried checking the fuel pump side of the carb again? Sometimes those don’t seat well and can cause low fuel pressure...
 
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