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1995 XP Rebuild

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Remove the jugs and pistons so you can get access to the block. You need to inspect the crank seals and the rotary valve gear
 
I pulled the cylinders off. They both looked okay from what I could see before, but getting the piston closest to the PTO out of the cylinder was very hard. It looks a lot worse than I thought. And now that the cylinders are off the engines spins freely by hand.

Could it have been the cylinder all along?

Also, to split the case I need to remove the flywheel right? And do a need to buy a puller for that or can I do it some other way.
 
NoahDobie said:
I pulled the cylinders off. They both looked okay from what I could see before, but getting the piston closest to the PTO out of the cylinder was very hard. It looks a lot worse than I thought. And now that the cylinders are off the engines spins freely by hand.

Could it have been the cylinder all along?

Also, to split the case I need to remove the flywheel right? And do a need to buy a puller for that or can I do it some other way.
Click to expand...

I would definitely still get into the block and double check the crank (seals and bearings) as well as the rotary valve gear. However, it seems that you have found an issue that needs to be addressed with the cylinders.

As for the flywheel, you will need a puller. I strongly recommend getting a pretty sturdy one. the last time I tried to pull my XP's flywheel it completely bent my puller out of shape and because it was bending it would not pull the flywheel off. I ended up having to go buy a new and much thicker one. Regardless of the puller you get, heat and some hammer taps will be very helpful to take it off

*dunno why it flipped the picture 180, but you get the idea*
 

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NoahDobie said:
I pulled the cylinders off. They both looked okay from what I could see before, but getting the piston closest to the PTO out of the cylinder was very hard. It looks a lot worse than I thought. And now that the cylinders are off the engines spins freely by hand.

Could it have been the cylinder all along?

Also, to split the case I need to remove the flywheel right? And do a need to buy a puller for that or can I do it some other way.
Click to expand...
Without the cylinders and head on, you're going to have a tough time keeping the flywheel from spinning while tightening the puller. You may be able to hold it with a rope between the case and crank web, but I'd probably just put the cylinder and head back on and use the 'ol rope down the plug hole trick

I have removed them using a pry bar between the flywheel teeth and mag housing, but I've also damaged a mag housing, so I wouldn't suggest that method

Also, don't screw the puller bolts in more than the thickness of the flywheel center hub, or you risk damaging the coils underneath
 
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With an impact wrench and the correct puller you can remove the flywheel bolt and flywheel by just holding it with your hand.
 
jts32 said:
Also, don't screw the puller bolts in more than the thickness of the flywheel center hub, or you risk damaging the coils underneath
Click to expand...

extremely important note that I did not remember to mention, but have in fact destroyed some coils this way before
 
Ok got the flywheel off. Have all bolts out of case now, how do I get the pistons off. Can I do it without the tool or do I need the tool?
 
Pull the piston pin snap rings. Then I just use a socket to tap the pin out while supporting the piston with the other hand so you don't put a side load on the rods.
Also put a rag in the cases because the piston pin needle bearings are going to fall everywhere once the pin is out.
 
Update, engine fully disassembled now.

One piston and cylinder looks great other one is pretty bad. I don't think there is any saving it.
All the needle bearings are rusted and seized.

I'm planning on replacing the crank seals they don't seem very good either. One of the bearings on the crankshaft is kinda wonky too it seems. Doesnt spin very nice and makes a bit more noise compared to the other ones.

Other than that, everything seems ok.

I guess it was the cylinder messing everything up all along.

Not sure what to do now.
 
New crankshaft and seals, I would rebuild the rotary shaft and have the cylinders bored over.
 
Correction, the needle bearings on the top of the connecting rods are seized the ones on the base seem fine.

Do I need a new crank? I think I just need the new seals and that one bearing. The ones circled on the pictureScreenshot (30)_LI.jpg
 
If the small end bearings are seized then it has damaged the connecting rods and the crank is not useable.
 
I just sent mine off Tom at seadoo engine shop a week ago. Talked to him on the phone for a while and he said he would give me a discount, throw the gasket kit in for free, and cover shipping both ways. He also already has me scheduled to have the motor shipped back on the 23rd. Pretty good turn around time.

I know there is some people on the forums that will caution against ses, but with that 2 year no fault warranty it seemed worth a shot.

Whatever route you take I would highly recommend going with the premium motor. That 2 year no fault is worth the extra money
 
Bringing this thread back from the dead. I've been trying to contact SES for a week now and they have never picked up, I have emailed and left a message, but nothing. Anyone know if they are still open or other good places to get an engine rebuild done? SBT seems good, but its a little more pricey.
 
What number are you using? Try sending an email. I know they are getting busy and some engines he is not going to have on the shelf. I second NickCawks with the premium engine 2 year warranty. That extra cost is not as much "Extra". It also saves you some of the shipping charges. I figure it's about $150 extra on some engines if you factor in the shipping. Totally worth it.
 
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Using the number on the site. I sent an email once and got no reply. Will most likely go the premium route
 
NoahDobie said:
Using the number on the site. I sent an email once and got no reply. Will most likely go the premium route
Click to expand...

Smh.....you're trying to give them business, you've called for a week with no one picking up and you've sent an email with no reply? And he doesn't even have your engine yet? Hmm.... how do you think it'll be once they have it? They suck, nothing premium about them...move on and try Fullbore, SBT, or Group K.
 
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Seems like Fullbore isn't doing any 720 engines right now. I emailed them as well as SES (I finally got a reply), and I emailed Group K. SES said they are backed up until early April so I will probably try somewhere else.
 
Do the engine yourself. WSM Crank, Pistons ad gasket set. That's what I use and not the expensive pistons either. No balance shaft in the 717 so it's a little cheaper and less technical. Besides after you take the engine apart to ship you wonder why you pay anyone to put a couple of parts in there. Ha ha. You're doing a heck of a lot of work yourself. My favorite thing.... by the time I box the engine up for shipping I've done so much work I tell my wife, "Explain to me again why I send these engines off?" :D and she says, "I dunno Gene, why do you send these engines off?" :D :D It's worth it but.... it is still a good bit of work in the prep. For the sake of some clean up and measuring.... that engine can go together real quick and you control the time frame. If Group K can turn around the top end for your pretty quick... hey.... that is an option to sending the engine off. Good Luck whatever you decide.

I bought this 657 bottom end of Ebay for $225. My cylinders were good so I just honed and installed new pistons. That's my alternative to waiting forever for a 657X engine. :D1995 SPX Cylinder (2).JPEG
 
I made a list of everything I needed, and it seemed about equal in cost just to send it in. But now that I'm looking back on it, that might not be the case. SES is 650 or SBT is 795. I just did the math and itll be around 550 for all the parts. So I guess maybe I'll go that route.

Not sure about just getting a crank from ebay, because if I get a used one it will be less but if I get a WSM one it will be 200-300 more than sending it in.
 
If wait time is not a consideration. I don't see how you are going to that engine complete and delivered for $650.
 
I want it done in the next month or so. Im really thinking I should just get what I need off of ebay and go from there.
Anything wrong with getting a used "working" crank? Like this one?
 
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