1995 XP Rebuild

[etemplet]

I would not buy a used crankshaft. I did that once and am not doing it again. That crank is in my wife's ski. At the time I purchased the used crank I didn't know the price of new cranks.

 

[NoahDobie]

Where do you get cranks from? The new WSM ones are for like 400+

 

[GGuillot]

Where do you get cranks from? The new WSM ones are for like 400+

I wouldn't buy used crankshaft, for less than $300 for a 720 engine you can get a reman from SBT. I've had good luck with remans for my 787 ski builds. I've bought 2 over the last couple years, it's quick, they send you the crankshaft via Fed Ex and you return yours to avoid a core charge. It's an option if you want it quick and not as pricey as a new one.

 

[etemplet]

I get my parts from Bay Area Powersports in Virginia. The have dang near everything I need and I like working with them. Cranks are not cheap that's for sure. You can Call Jason and see if he can help you out. Don't go by me on the used crank purchase but they'll be half the cost of new and they might have issues. That's You're call and this ole boy will "never" tell you I told you so. We're here to help one another and saving a few bucks is the kinda help I like. LOL Good luck man whatever you choose to do.

 

[DanSquires]

Just go with an SBT 2 year no fault. you'll have the engine in a few days

 

[mikidymac]

As others have said.....
There is no way FullBore or SES is going to have your engine back in a month.
DO NOT buy a used crankshaft on ebay or you will just have a blown up engine.
The only way you are going to be on the water in a month is an SBT reman or get the parts and do it yourself.

 

[NoahDobie]

I ordered one from SBT... its gonna cost me a fortune but hopefully its worth it. I think my driveshaft needle bearing may be seized too. Should it spin freely in the seal carrier?
<-------Should it spin in this thing

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, those needle bearings should turn inside the housing.

 

[NoahDobie]

Just took a little WD-40 and I got the seal carrier fine again, seems perfect to me.

Okay, next up... I'm gonna start putting the ski back together for when the engine gets here. I just wanna test the fuel pump and oil pump, how do I go about doing that? With a drill? or is it unlikely they aren't working?

Also, what should I use to paint my exhaust, intake manifold, flywheel cover, etc? I just want to make it all nice like the new motor. Some high temp spray paint?

 

[etemplet]

Make sure the bearings are rotating. You'll need to grease them when you are satisfied they are in good shape. I've never done high-temp spray paint on any Seadoo engine or component. Nothing should get hot enough to burn the paint.... under normal circumstances.

 

[NoahDobie]

I got some stuff painted so far, the front flywheel cover is a bit funny looking but in person it looks good. They don't have to be perfect I just wanted a better look.

Also, I started to rebuild my carbs, they are ugly on the outside but on the inside they were ok. But I would really like to paint the intake and the oil pump, but I can't find a gasket set anywhere for them. Does anyone know where I can get one?

 

[mikidymac]

Rotary cover o-ring:

293300023​

O-RING​

1​

13.49​

Oil Pump o-ring:

293300018​

O-RING​

1​

12.49​

Intake O-ring:
WSM 008-606 $8.39

 

[NoahDobie]

Here's the ski right now... hopefully I can make it look a little better in the coming weeks.


I really want to get rid of all the yellow at some point... just not a fan at all.








Also, I've painted all the other engine components, just gotta put the carbs back together now. The ski came with a K&N intake... which I've heard can be really bad if I roll it and I need to change the carb tuning with it apparently... any thoughts?

Heres all the painted parts:

 

[Major Woody]

As you indicated in your other thread, you don't like the yellow bottom and it's beat up. You cannot imagine the amount of work it would take to re-gelcoat the bottom just to change the color. And you can't paint the bottom. It would never last, and every scratch would show yellow through. If you want to, you can just repair the deep gouges with an Evercoat gelcoat repair kit. It won't be perfect but it will be smooth. Then you can wetsand and buff it. That is what I'd suggest.

 

[GGuillot]

As you indicated in your other thread, you don't like the yellow bottom and it's beat up. You cannot imagine the amount of work it would take to re-gelcoat the bottom just to change the color. And you can't paint the bottom. It would never last, and every scratch would show yellow through. If you want to, you can just repair the deep gouges with an Evercoat gelcoat repair kit. It won't be perfect but it will be smooth. Then you can wetsand and buff it. That is what I'd suggest.

Gelcoating is definitely a lot of work, but after doing a color change on a GTX hull bottom from green to black it wouldn't be bad at all on an X4 hull. There's not nearly the surface area to cover on that ski..

 

[NoahDobie]

So I have a new idea, what if I fill the gouges and then either use bedliner on the entire thing OR just make a little section in the middle where it will go on the rocks and beaches and stuff? Anyone have any ideas on that?
Something like this, with the bedliner in the blue area. Also thanks for all the help guys! I know it might cause drag, but has that really been proven? It wont be super rough liner either.

 

[etemplet]

Are you talking about "bedliner" like for a truck? If so, that stuff isn't designed for the kind of abuse a jet ski hull takes and I have no idea how it would perform being submerged. If Gelcoat wasn't the best most economical product for the task, manufacturers would use something else. I'm likely to paint mine with hull paint but I'm considering Gelcoat if I spray it. You plan is making you and your ski a test pilot but I'm sure somebody has tried this before. I bought a ski with a shower curtain as a seat cover. Didn't look to bad from far way or high speed. LOL

 

[mikidymac]

The bed liner isn't a great idea since it is really rough and it isn't designed to be in water all the time.

If you don't want to gelcoat or use hull paint I know quite a few people use the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy in the freeride community and have pretty good results.

 

[glsmohio]

I did two skis with bed liner. Por 15. I then lightly sanded it and put Appliance epoxy over top of it. Worked great had no problems with it coming off. After two years a little bit came off and I just created and put on

 

[NoahDobie]

So I'm working on rebuilding the carbs again... got the MAG side done, pops off around 49-50 which is good I think because I have a K&N intake until I can get a stock airbox. But when doing the PTO carb, there is a leak on the opposite side of the needle, not sure if I put the right stuff into that side? Just the o-ring and the gasket? that's all there was when I took it apart.

Air and some WD-40 was coming out of the top right screw there.

This is what I put on that side. Anything I'm missing?

 

[glsmohio]

I take the pop of tester and out it print in this hole where your min filter is. Report back. With after market carbs...say 44 and after market sir filter I like 20iah


Also what kinda kits u got to rebuild with?

 

[mikidymac]

The paper gasket doesn't get used, that is not for your carbs.

Also the 49-50 psi pop-off isn't going to work with your aftermarket air cleaner and you will be lean and possibly damage your engine.

If you are going to run the stock carb settings you need to wait until you have the correct stock air cleaner.

Did you follow this...Carb Rebuild Thread

 

[NoahDobie]

I did follow that but I didn't see anything for the PTO carb like that... unless I just missed it. What goes there? And what should the pop-off be? Seadoo source says 40 to 56.

EDIT: Found it... need the rubber piece I guess. Still not sure about pop-off

 

[mikidymac]

I did follow that but I didn't see anything for the PTO carb like that... unless I just missed it. What goes there? And what should the pop-off be? Seadoo source says 40 to 56.

EDIT: Found it... need the rubber piece I guess. Still not sure about pop-off

The PTO carb only gets the small black fuel filter and the shaped o-ring that goes in the groove, that's it on the fuel pump side.

40-56 is the correct pop-off for the stock air cleaner and will only work with the restricted flow of the stock air cleaner.
When you switch to an aftermarket air cleaner like you have there is less velocity in the carb due to the better airflow so you need to lower the pop-off for this lower velocity or you will lean out the air-fuel mixture and can seize an engine.

Just keep the pop-off as you have it in the 40 range and wait for the stock air cleaner to arrive.
The K&N filters are not good anyways.

 

[NoahDobie]

Back again.... I have got the whole ski together except the jetpump engine is running but I cant seem to get the air out of the oil lines. There is just a permanent bubble right below to oil filter. I have opened the bleed screw and I have run it and held it wide open. It was getting smaller for a while but now it just seems to be staying at one spot. What should I do?