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04' Speedster 200 Project

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pwgsx

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A lot of the stereo work will be done this fall but for now I am fixing everything that is broke or cracked and will be posting pics as I go. I cleaned the whole inside this past weekend, found 2 old spark plugs, coins, zip ties, pine needles and a bunch of gunk. 4 hrs later and a gallon of simple green it is all clean.

Last night I pulled out the old stereo and replaced it with a nice Kenwood marine unit and Jensen splash guard. It sounds so much better but not great so now I just added 4 new speakers to my list for the fall. :o

Now to fix the hood latch and backer plate that's cracked ( you can see it in the pic below). Any ideas of where I can find some black plastic so I can make my own?
 

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Looks like a nice start. What plate is cracked? i dont see it. Mine was the same way when I got it. Lots of small stuff broken or not working properly. I still have more to do over the winter.
 
In the 3rd pic, the black plate around the top lock, its just wedged in there for now but the halves fall out. I looked for the part online and its way too much for the "mounting kit" as they call it. I am pretty sure I can make one but cant think of where I can find that kind of nylon plastic.
 
Now for the 2 swivel seats. They both move forward and back fine and lock BUT they will not lock in place for the swivel part. The lever moves but doesn't seem to be locking anything. Is this common? I am planning on removing the big center bolt under the bottom seat cushion this evening and will post pics of my findings.

I should have a onboard battery charger here this fri with a thru hull charging port. Any suggestions on where to mount it? I would like to be able to charge it with the cover on so I am thinking some place in the back or side but where it doesn't get water splashed on it.
 
What brand of battery charger did you get? I've been toying with that idea, or just adding a cig lighter receptacle near the stern and plugging a battery tender into the cig lighter receptacle...with the advantage that the receptacle could be used for other items, like a tube inflator. I know I've seen a thread from someone who did this on this forum somewhere...
 
Can someone please tell me what wire I can use to power my depth finder? I found the fuse box has a fuse 10A fuse for Accessory ( not sure what that would be other than the 12v plug charger by the radio ) and I don't know what wire that feeds but it seems like it would work.

Also I did some digging and found the port side blower working but not the starboard side. The blower fuse under the cooler area is good, switch works fine but when I test the power wire going to the non working fan there is no power. Is there another fuse that I am missing?
 

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I got a lot done this weekend, depth finder installed, charger and charging port is in, fixed the back ladder and seats now lock in place. Made a makeshift bracket to hold the broken mount on the fuse box down. Now to work on restoring the gel coat. Any ideas on what to use? Rubbing compound/wax doesn't help much, I need something more aggressive.
 

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Looking good. Did you see the before and after pics of my boat? I use 3M marine super duty rubbing compound. Boat looked really oxidized from being baked in the sun. Afterwards it almost looks new.
 
Good stuff pwgsx, I got my Speedster 200 a month ago and am going through a lot of small things on mine as well. I am installing the same depth finder this weekend. Where did you wind up getting your power from? I am going to glue in the transducer however. Something about drilling holes in a boat concerns me.

Depending on how bad your oxidation is, I bought the Meguiars Fiberglass restoration system its like $35 on Ebay. It worked really well on the white areas. The blue got a lot better, but I needed a machine and compound to make it shine.
 
I took the power wire going to the switch for the courtesy lights. I looked up the power usage depth finder and it is hardly anything. Figured if I blew a fuse that's one that's not really needed till its fixed but I didn't have any issues. I was going to glue it in BUT the hull is double walled and in all the reading it doesn't work well. The hole you drill is not bad at all and they give you a cover that covers the hole and with the sealant 5200 its never going to leak.
 
This past weekend I got the whole engine lid removed for easier working on stuff. Man that thing is heavy. I sanded and p all the rust off the hood struts and re painted except for the fronts which were rusted thru. I attached pics of each and the part number for anyone that may need it in the future. I also located the main leak. As you can see in the pics the plastic nut holding the cable thru the hull for the intake grate cleanout broke. Water was gushing in all around. I used a sprinkler pipe e-z out to remove the broken threaded part that was still stuck. That whole system is a joke, if I could remove it I would.
Next is to replace the oil sensors on one engine that I just got in and I finally found the correct socket to fit them. I need to remove the pumps, cooling lines and manifold to find out where its blocked. I also have new wear rings to install and will be ordering new carbon seals too. Let the fun start. :hurray:
 

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A few more pics removing the plastic threads.
 

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I also located the main leak. As you can see in the pics the plastic nut holding the cable thru the hull for the intake grate cleanout broke. Water was gushing in all around. I used a sprinkler pipe e-z out to remove the broken threaded part that was still stuck.

I still need to find my leak. I havent had time to mess with it. Are you going to replace those parts with the stock parts? Is it just that plastic threaded section?
 
This past weekend I got the whole engine lid removed for easier working on stuff. Man that thing is heavy. I sanded and p all the rust off the hood struts and re painted except for the fronts which were rusted thru. I attached pics of each and the part number for anyone that may need it in the future. I also located the main leak. As you can see in the pics the plastic nut holding the cable thru the hull for the intake grate cleanout broke. Water was gushing in all around. I used a sprinkler pipe e-z out to remove the broken threaded part that was still stuck. That whole system is a joke, if I could remove it I would.
Next is to replace the oil sensors on one engine that I just got in and I finally found the correct socket to fit them. I need to remove the pumps, cooling lines and manifold to find out where its blocked. I also have new wear rings to install and will be ordering new carbon seals too. Let the fun start. :hurray:

I still need to find my leak. I havent had time to mess with it. Are you going to replace those parts with the stock parts? Is it just that plastic threaded section?

Here you go, man up to aluminum! I will say I have tried my weedless on my 99 twice and it worked the first time, the second time I was glad I had it, my buddy sucked the ski rope. So as lame as you think it is, you'll be glad if you ever suck a rope!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-RXP-..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item4ab281097c&vxp=mtr


217.jpg
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
I still need to find my leak. I havent had time to mess with it. Are you going to replace those parts with the stock parts? Is it just that plastic threaded section?

That and the rubber washer. I didn't know they had them in metal, and ordered the plastic already. Guess I will e bay those and get the metal ones. POS plastic crap!!
 
Still waiting on parts to come in but I did find some odd rubber pieces in the hull, any idea what they go to if anything?
 

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I got to take the pumps off, well the left one came off with no issues, the other I cannot get the 4 bolts to move. I even used a 2ft breaker bar and nothing. How can I get these out? At this point it looks like it sat in salt water for a while and someone painted over all the corrosion with black paint. Not what I wanted to find!!
 

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I got to take the pumps off, well the left one came off with no issues, the other I cannot get the 4 bolts to move. I even used a 2ft breaker bar and nothing. How can I get these out? At this point it looks like it sat in salt water for a while and someone painted over all the corrosion with black paint. Not what I wanted to find!!

Hit the ends nice and flat with a Bell Peen hammer. This often is enough to break the electrolysis that has seized the bolts. An impact screwed driver works great as well.

Like this for example.
http://www.toolup.com/klein_70220_r...scplp1071610&gclid=CKrRv66-lroCFcFAMgodtnAA4w
 
Hit the ends nice and flat with a Bell Peen hammer. This often is enough to break the electrolysis that has seized the bolts. An impact screwed driver works great as well.

Like this for example.
http://www.toolup.com/klein_70220_r...scplp1071610&gclid=CKrRv66-lroCFcFAMgodtnAA4w

Would a air impact gun work? Or is that too much? I do know 1 bolt head is stripped out. If I have to drill the heads off, how will I remove the rest of the bolt? Will it just slide out the back- I see its a square nut but not sure how it goes in.
 
Still working on removing the frozen bolts but have a question. Where are you placing the second battery? I see the space on the other side but the fuse box and fuel hose is in the way to place it like the factory battery. Are you just adding it farther back? Pics would be great if anyone has one.
 
Just got the pump parts in, hoping I don't need new drive shafts but we will see. Lots of work to do this weekend ;)
 
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