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04' Speedster 200 Project

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Awesome! Think about heat when you install the amp. My buddy bought a Boss 1000W amp and his used to kick off due to high temps. Are you going to wire the two batteries together or run the audio off the deep cycle battery?
 
Just curious how you plan on hooking all that up...is it all going to the amp? If so, how do you plan on putting it with 6 cabin speakers, 2 tower and 2 sub? Honestly that amp is underpowerd for all of those speakers. Ideally a 5 channel amp is what you need. Thats with one that is stable at 2 ohms on all channels. I would want 300+ amps going to the subs. This is also a class AB amp, it will get really hot, even more so if you wire speakers in parallel. The amp is the heart of a big system. It will make or break how it sounds and i think you will be disappointed, Id save up for a better amp.

Im jealous you got the turf in molded diamond dark grey. When i went to order it last year the molded diamond wasnt an option for the 200 in dark grey. So i had to go with the cut diamond. I think molded looks much better.
 
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The amp is going to power the subs and 2 tower speakers only off of the deep cycle battery. I am adding a on/off switch to turn the subs off and just blast the towers and cabin speakers. The other speakers for now are just replacing the factory speakers. I got it on amazon so I got 30 days to return it if it sucks but the reviews were really good on it so we will see. Its going to be mounted under the cooler on the driver side. I blew all my $ on the turf and fixing the pumps so a better amp wont come until next year.
The molded turf looks really nice. I had the cut diamond before and it was ok. The only issue is how they shipped it, the backing of one sheet came off and stuck to the box. I am in the process of getting it replaced thru them. But for $300 for the whole kit I cant really complain.
 
Well this Sat I got a lot done until it started raining. Sunday I hoped to finish but it rained all day :(. Here are some pics of the work and what the speakers look like. I still need to install the amp and connect the wires but everything is run. Tower wires are done but I needed longer bolts to connect the clamps.

Any ideas how to keep my radio settings from going back to factory every time I shut off the battery?? I know the yellow wire is the 12v memory that needs constant 12V and the red is the 12v ignition but both I assume on a boat are spliced together right at the battery switch somewhere. Can I run a 12v wire directly to the battery and splice it into the yellow wire or should I cut the yellow at the head unit and attach the 12v constant there?
 

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Only had about 2 hrs after work last night but got some turf down on the back swim area and the right side done on the front cover. Also replaced the faded decal on the right. It looks so much better. Hopefully I will get the other side done today if I have time. I have someone working on making some replacement stickers for the back. Hydroturf and https://www.facebook.com/davecrone2010 was great and is sending a replacement of the large piece of turf that was damaged in shipping free of charge. That will be here Monday. If you need any turf he is the guy to see :thumbsup:
 

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Got the left side done last night. Now to finish the stereo this weekend and start compounding and polishing the interior before I put down the turf.
 

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Looking good!!! As far as the constant 12V feed for memory retention...i dont mess with it, but ive seen guys actually just wire a single 9V battery to it and they say it lasts most the summer on a single battery. The guy you listed for the turf...does he work there? My rear swim deck has a hole in the piece on the far right from a docking incident. I hate to buy an entire sheet just to replace that one corner.
 
Thanks, I sent you a PM with my address. He works at A&D Discount Performance but seems to have a contact there. I was impressed by his service. Just give him a shout. I got the amp mounted on the inside wall behind the seat, Installed some switches to turn the amp on/of, subs on/of and a constant 12v to the radio memory wire with a selector switch. Also got the 1 wind deflector painted and glued back in- it wont be functional but it fills the gap. Now to compound, buff, wax , finish installing the mats and do a oil change.
 

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Got a cracked wind deflector for the other side from RFoster the other day and figured I would glue it back together at work. I used a plastic epoxy with 4 metal supports on the backside that were set in a groove I made with the dremel and epoxy poured over them. Since this will be non-functional and just glued into the hood to fill the void I don't care how the backside will look. Got it sanded down and filled with epoxy and talc for a smooth finish. A coat of paint and you wont even know.
 

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Just curious if there is any real reason you would ever want to turn the subs off? What we have found in our boat, since adding the mono amp, and 10" sub, we can run the entire system louder since all the lows are send to the sub, rather than blowing out the other speakers.

The Kicker Towers and 6.5" Alpine Marine speakers could not handle the lows at high volume. That's not an issue any longer, and we find that if we are cruising the lake at speed, and want to run the stereo at a level worth listening to, the sub has solved that issue.

Good luck, great work so far!
 
I guess I had too much free time and extra switches. lol. I didn't know how long the 2 subs would run off the deep cycle battery and since the amp also runs the tower speakers I figured when we are hanging in the water we don't need the subs to be on so now I can just turn them off and hopefully stop the battery from draining too fast. I also wired the radio memory wire to the deep cycle to save all the pre-sets even when the boat is off.
 
I love that idea of saving the presets as I shut my main power switch off whenever the boat is out of the water too.

We don't have a huge setup, but with two amps, we can run our system for days without a recharge. Now keep in mind, our system is setup with an isolator, so the engine is giving the cranking and deep cycle a trickle (non technical term) while running. This is not enough to charge it though.

I do find myself charging the deep cycle 2-3 times per summer.
 
Yea I only added 2 subs and 2 tower speakers. Nothing crazy but for now I just have the amp running off the deep cycle battery 2 that is not connected to get any charge at all. The radio and 4 inside speakers still use the house battery unless we are docked and I switch to battery 2 use only. I have not been able to test the battery life yet on the water but hope it can last for a 4-6 hours. I can charge it when I get home after each use.
 
Without knowing what size battery you have, I shouldn't guess, but most use Trolling Motor batteries which should run your stereo for days.

When I am saying days, I am talking about the full 2-amp, 6+1 Speaker/sub and headunit from 11am-7pm for days. There's quite a bit of juice in battery of this size. Many times this involves little running of the engine, so I put no weight on the charging ability of the engine. You should be good with a full sized battery.

Good luck and keep the updates coming!
 
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If that is true that will be SWEEET. Hope to buff and install the hydroturf this weekend while our tile guy fixes my living room floor that is popping tiles. If its not one thing its another.
 
Got the deflector painted, still hoping Sat. I can get a lot done.
 

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Wow that deflector turned out looking brand new. Nice work. Why didn't you hook the battery up so it charges too? Ive had no problems at all with running the 2 batteries and both being charged. I can sit for 8 hours using the radio without a problem. Then i switch back to #1 to start the boat. Then i switch it to both for a while while running the boat, and it charges both without any issues.
 
I read it puts too much strain on the charging system but I don't know. I have a charger on it so its not a big deal really. It is hooked up to the switch though incase I need to use it for a start if battery 1 is bad. I ran the amp, 2 subs and speakers this weekend while working on the boat for 7 hrs and the battery still had power. I think I will be fine, I was very surprised.

I got the inside waxed then best I could to a shine using all of the 3M compound, finesse it 2 , wax and all. It looks a lot better but nowhere near gloss. Got the turf all in as well. Only thing left is a oil change and coolant flush ( see other thread with that issue
 

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Wish me luck, taking the boat to the lake this evening for its first outing since rebuilding the pumps, shafts, carbon seals, exhaust hoses and oil pressure sensors. Hoping for the best but nervous.
 
Well mostly all fixed BUT have 2 issue: BIG leak from one exhaust outlet, guess I need to reseal and tighten the nut. Also same problematic engine now has excess pressure leaking out of the oil fill cap and side of valve cover- See other thread on that issue :(
 
Well I am still fighting the oil issue but did find my big leak. I removed the exhaust anyway and resealed it. I then found what looked like water drip marks behind the foam so I cut the left corner out and found the issue. Since the boat was on the trailer at the time the trim was more in the water than normal so it was leaking pretty bad. You can see a few rivet holes had leaked some water. One rivet was missing and was just a hole. I put on some 5200 in all the areas and called it a day. Now to put the foam corner back in and re-install the exhaust. I also cleaned all of the ground wires as the area on both engines looked horrible. Not sure if that was the cause of some of the issues but it was worth it.
 

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Got it patched and got the exhaust raised above the J-Pipe, it was way under it before and I was worried about water entering the exhaust.
 

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Just curious, where did you buy the molded diamond turf kit for your boat from? I only see the cut diamond listed on the website and would like to get my hands on the molded kit.

Thanks!
 
Im kinda jealous you got the molded too...that was my preference but it only listed cut diamond online.
 
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