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Did you try turning it over by hand, or with the start button? It makes a big difference in what you need to look at next. It’s possible that the rope caused the engine to lock up, but it’s also possible that the starter is weak, that you have a poor engine ground, or that the solenoid is bad...

So you pulled the pump, and it rotates freely when not attached to the hull? Did you try to rotate the motor by hand with the plugs out?

If you google search your year and model and service manual, you should find a downloadable document. It will have a diagram and procedures to resynch the carbs.

It does sound like you’ve got the pump locked up. Look through the intake grate with a flashlight and I’m willing to bet you still have something wedged in there.

Yep. Sea Doo actually did a fantastic job with the stock jetting on the carbs, so there’s nothing to gain by messing with it.

OSD carries a replacement internal screw set for the carbs. The best thing you can do for the future is buy a JIS screwdriver, as those screws are not a standard philips head.

You can, but there’s no need. Just bleed the pump until there is no air in the supply line and then close the bleed screw. Then you can start the engine and let it idle while you hold the lever arm on the pump open. It will fill the lines within 20-30 seconds... At idle, you’re flowing almost...

I would absolutely NOT run that Lucas Land & Sea. I’m with Miki on the dual-rated oils being insufficient for Rotax applications, and I had to be converted to get to that opinion. TC-W3 and API-TC ratings are a one or the other thing. You can’t have a dual rated oil, because the ash content...

Where did you get the needle and seat? They were replaced as a set, correct?

That’s a 717 ski. You can either piece together a complete kit with that Mikuni kit and the correct 1.2 needle and seat, or you can buy the kit from OSD that includes the correct ones. Just make sure it’s OEM parts you’re buying.

It’s always good to have a resolution to the post. And I wouldn’t want anyone that found the post down the road to get the impression that Full Bore took your motor and money and ran. They’re a legitimate shop and from all indications do excellent work. That wait time is terrible though!

Is it an XP800, or a standard XP with the 717? The gaskets are the same, but the needle and seat size is different between them...

I’ve never pulled one from a GTX hull, but on the X4’s I just pull the exhaust and the carbs and then lift the motor out. I think you can do the same for the GTX hull as well.

There was quite a bit to this situation... If I remember right it was a bit over a year, but it covered two riding seasons. I’m just glad it got sorted and he’s got a good engine out of it.

Nice! I’m glad to see you’re finally back in business! Although the wait is horrendous, I’ve only heard good things about the quality of their work, so hopefully you’ll have a runner...

If there’s no debris, you’re likely looking at either a worn wear ring, or a dinged up impeller...

Yes, you should definitely pull the impeller. It’s much easier to do with it out of the way...

Yep. There’s your problem! Yes, I would replace the PTO also. A used one should be very easy to find. As for the driveshaft, measure the length. I believe the jet boats used the same driveshaft as the skis that year, but let’s double check to be sure.

Which o-ring are you taking about on the carb? The formed o-ring? Some of the carb kits include them and some don’t, but it needs to be there...

You’re fine to tap it in if needed. Sometimes they slide right in and sometimes they take a little persuasion... It just depends on how long they were in the freezer and how the dimensions on your particular pump were set.