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well no and yes. u can pull the rotary shaft out without pulling the motor but the problem is there is no good way to flush the shavings out of the bottom end now. There is also a gear in the middle of the crank that drive the rotary valve that can get pushed to one side when the rotary valve...

my x4, ignore the ugly bars on it, i have a full umi setup waiting to go on it.

anyone know what the part number is for a new oem starter? is 278001301 what im looking for and will it include the bendix

this is exactly why i run two ground cables.

You could also try unplugging the voltage regulator Also did you find the missing part of the reeds?

i would check the compression with a different tester. i had a problem like this with my hx. Had 150psi and would run out of water but not in. turn out to be a bad bearing that took out the pto side crank seal

off topic, but racerxxx what kinda sand blaster do you use? have a good trip!!

I would strongly suggests hydro turf over the other brands. I just installed some blacktip mats on someone's ski and I was not impressed. Get the backing on it, makes the install a lot better and cleaner. Looks like your have done your research and are off to great start, when u do the wear...

on the 95 i would check the fuel selector and also the check valves on the vent for the gas tank. sounds like lack of fuel. next time u ride try switching to reserve and see if it gets any better if not loosen the gas cap and try it again. Replace those fuel lines soon!!

is the motor locked up? pull the plugs and try turning it over by hand

did you try unplugging the red wire on the voltage regulator in the front ebox?

wow that is clean. don't feel too bummed out with the help of this fourm you will be up and running soon.

like lou said take the carbs off and look if u can see the bolt. once u have the bolt out make sure the rotary valve is not damage and spins freely as the motor turns over. i would avoid taking the rotary cover off if possible. make sure there are no nicks or dents in the rotary plate.

yes the rotary valve plate has to be timed, its not hard to do but removing that plate might not buy you much more room to work with. The only thing i can think out to grab it would be one of these,

Need some help here, took the ski out today and and it seems like the mag piston runs a little bit warmer then the Pto. The Pto is warm on my finger where the mag is a bit more. Not a burn your finger kinda warm but probably 20 degrees difference. Any ideas? Or is it Normal?

seafoam is not going to fix fuel delivery problems. if a 2 stroke cuts out when riding, stop riding it. when they run lean there is no lubrication.

Very good information there^^. I didn't even know they made them without the float mode. The one I recommended dose have the float mode.

For anyone trying to keep there new battery good for a while, I found that home depot sells the black & decker batter tender for $20. This is the cheapest I could find one that still got good reviews. It has a output of 1.3A which makes it mpem safe.

sorry to hear that, wishing you the best and a fast recovery.

For a little more money I would go with the battery from advanced auto. That's the one I am running this season and it has been great so far. The extra cca make a big difference when starting the ski. A battery is never a good place to try and save money, it's not worth being stuck somewhere