Newb with questions 2002 XP not accelerating

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hlewis12

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I'm sorry for posting this because I feel certain that it is in here somewhere but I'm not sure what exactly to search for. I just recently got a 2002 XP. It was given to me by my wife's boss. He had a couple of seadoo's and this one he said was too fast to ride where he normally rides so it mainly just sat. He took it to his buddies shop that repairs boats and had a new battery, carbs cleaned, and a motor mount replaced. He lived in Wilmington NC rode it in the ocean and apparently the motor mount was rusty and broke. So like I said it had sat for a while.

We paid the repair bill something right around $500. I brought it back to TN in October. Put it in the water when we got it home and ran it for a few minutes. It was getting late. IIRC is seemed to run well except it was smoking a little in the engine compartment. I mistakenly decided to leave it in the water overnight tied up to the dock. I came home for lunch the next day to discover it had sank. I pulled it out of the water came back to work and frantically searched what to do if a ski gets flooded. Went home cleaned all of the water out. Oiled everything really well. Put it back in the water and ran it for a bit. Ran like absolute crap it smoked like crazy but I assumed it was because of the amount of oil/sea foam I sprayed into the cylinders. It was late October the water went down and I just put it in the garage for the winter.

Got it back out this past weekend. Drained the gas. Charged the battery. Put in new plugs. Cut 1/4" off plug wires. Put it in the water and it fired right up. Smoked like crazy in the engine compartment. Starting taking on water again. Finally found that the 90 hose from the resonator to exhaust outlet was loose and taking on water and filling engine compartment with smoke.

It starts up and seems to idle just fine. When I take off it seems to hesitate a little and then slowly builds up to about 4500 RPM's and ~30-35 mph and then it just stays there. I'm not sure what exactly to check. I know that I need to remove the fuel selector and clean it. Tried it on both ON and Reserve. No difference noticed. It is on my list of things to do next. Cleaned out the fuel filter. All of the hoses were replaced with I assume automotive hoses before I got it. I verified that the low speed screw is at 1.5 turns out. For the life of me I can't find the high speed screw to make sure it is all the way in. I screwed in the rave valves all the way in and back out 1.5 turns. Did the same thing for the water regulator valve? on the exhaust. I did not drain and change the oil because it looks completely fine and the way had it tied up when it sank the nose of the ski was still out of the water.

One other thing to note is when I checked the spark plugs it almost seemed as if one was rich and the other one looked a little wet but it wasn't black at all. Can you check spark on these the same as everything else? Remove plug hold against engine for ground and look for spark?

It's crossed my mind that it almost rides like what I would imagine a learning key would do but according to something I read somewhere I don't think a learning key works on my ski. Maybe I saw that in the shop manual.

What should my next steps be? Thanks in advance for all of the knowledge on this forum.
 
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It almost sounds like your running on one cylinder. Double check for spark on both cylinders. yes you can ground to the block but that creates an open spark that could ignite fuel vapors. I would buy a cheap 5$ inline spark checker and be safe about it. One thing to try is play with the choke while running it. If puling the choke partly makes it speed up, then I would point towards carbs. If it seems to flood and sputter, then its too rich.

Another thing to verify is the rave valves are clean and not sticky. A stuck open/closed rave valve will cause the engine to run off balance and change the dynamics of the tuned exhaust. You say it smokes a lot. Take a peak down at the front of the engine at the oil pump. see if the cable is still on and the two marks are aligned. a mirror works great or even a cell phone, take a picture, look at the adjustment.

Another thing is to check compression. If the engine is just tired and low on compression, no matter what you do, you wont be able to get the RPM you should. Let us know how it works out.
 
Thank you for the tips on things to check. I checked spark and both looked the same so I'm pretty sure both cylinders are firing. I pulled both rave valves and one of them the oring on the cylinder side was split in to and the green chamber/diaphragm was full of oil. I cleaned all of that out. Cleaned both valves with a brass wire wheel. They actually didn't look that bad to me. I verified that when blowing into the diaphragm the valves would easily lift. Then I decided to check compression. I found on both cylinders the compression was around 137ish. I pulled both plugs put the caps on the grounding blocks held the throttle open and cranked the engine. I assume this is correct for checking compression on this ski. This was completely cold. I didn't run it at all so I don't know what it would be on a warm engine. I'm thinking it should still be higher regardless of the engine being cold.

I checked the engine oil pump cable and think the marks are aligned correctly it's really hard to tell exactly where the mark is on the pump body. Here is a pic of it. It seems to be coated with either wet oil or grease. I'm not sure what it is.

After I got everything back together it starts up perfectly fine. Hopefully tomorrow I can go take it for a spin to see if replacing the o ring in the rave valve helped. It seems like it would help because I'm not positive it would lift correctly without the o ring. Also this was the same cylinder I suspected May not be firing.

Pulling the choke partially out while riding bogs it down immediately.
 

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135 is perfect compression on your ski... So 137 is right on. And your oil pump is right where it should be.That rave o-ring being broken will definitely cause a bog/hesitation and lower rpms... Also take a good look at the wear ring on the pump... Gap should be no more than a dime. Really sounds like the ski needs to be taken out and ran for awhile, there may have been some oil sitting in the bottom end from storage. That will cause a lot of smoke...Good luck with the lake test and let us know how it goes
 
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So I replaced the o rings in both rave valves new plugs again. Took it for a spin and same exact thing 4500ish rpms and 30ish mph. Took it out of the water brought it home and pulled the fuel selector. Looked completely spotless on the inside. Nothing at all in it. Decided to pull the carbs to check the high speed adjuster they were all the way counterclockwise. Adjusted them the quarter turn clockwise and thought that might help. Since I had them off I checked the filters and they were clean. I didn't have carb kits so I was hesitant to take them completely apart. I pulled out the low speed adjusters and sprayed carb cleaner through them. Verified that when the throttle is pulled I do get a squirt of gas in the carb bodies. I wasn't real sure what else to check so I threw them back on.

So regardless I put it back in the water and same exact thing 4500 rpms although throttle response up to 4500 felt a little better. I decided to just ride it around for a few minutes and see what happens. I'm turnng left and right a few times and decided to turn it hard once. When I did and I started coming out of the turn I heard a pop or click or something and all of a sudden it takes off to like 6000 rpms and I'm doing like 58. I hold it there for a bit and then let off and take back off again and same 4500 rpms.

Is it possible that the solenoid that controls the rave valves is either stuck or not working. How can you test it? What actually turns it on? And is it using air to lift the valves if so where is it coming from engine compression? Are the rave valves supposed to be fully tightened like the manual says. It seems like if they were fully tightened then the springs would have no play at all in them.

I really think I'm on the verge of figuring this thing out which is good because my buddy called me today and told me he just bought a 94 spx that's been sitting for a while and isn't currently running so I'm sure as soon as I get this one running we'll be working on his next.
 
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I've discovered when riding it that when the prop comes out of the water it will the wind up to above 6000 rpms and stay what I would call if talking about my dirt bike on the pipe until I slow down again. What is this telling me?
 
Running under no load tells you nothing.

The high speed needles should be CLOSED. Low speed should be 1.5 turns out.

If your highs are open, your running too rich and will never reach WOT of 6800-7k under load.

Also, post a pic of your plugs.
 
Here a pic of the plugs. I ran it for about a minute at wide open throttle and heard what could have been pinging. I let off and idled back to the trailer. I unfortunately did not have a wrench to check the plugs immediately. Here's a pic of the plugs once back on the trailer

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So still having the same problem. Ive ran with the rave caps off and same thing. I ordered a new carb kit. Rebuilt the carbs. Same problem. Ran bypassed fuel selector, ran fuel line from tank through new glass filter straight to carb same problem. Replaced regulator with external heavy duty regulator from osd parts. $165 wasted. What else is there to check? Is it possible that my water regulator is not set correctly? Where is it supposed to be set? Mine has been adjusted and I'm not sure where to set it now. Is it possible that when the motor was removed by mechanic to replace the broken motor mount that something was not hooked up right? If so what is there to check?
 
Those plugs look suspicious to me. they manage to be black and the porcelain is white...

Going back to the fact that the ski essentially sank... is the ebox clean and dry? (where the spark plug wires come out of, up front)?

is the TPS switch functioning? (I don't think this is the issue).

is the jet pump in good shape? plugs out, you can spin the shaft by hand? (KEY OFF, don't lose a finger).

so you have compression, which to me means the reeds are in ok shape. although you can remove the carbs and them to inspect if you like. (you do not remove the pipe to remove the carbs).

you said it filled w/smoke before? you've verified no exhaust leaks?

how are the plug wires? good shape? did you try the 1/4" snip?

these new carb kits... are they the correct sizes? I don't mess with rebuilding carbs... for $400 new. I just buy new and sell the old for $100.

make sure the jet's are the right sizes. I chased a low performing engine for TWO YEARS because of the god (*$% jet sizes. (It was running rich).

you should see 6800-7k WOT in the water.

what oil are you using?

how old is the fuel?

new plugs? NGK BR8ES? MUST BE THESE PLUGS. they are cheap and work well.

have you removed and inspected the water regulator? (I don't think this is the issue, but doesn't hurt to look).
 
Need help with my 98 xp limited cooling system . Exhaust melting my hoses . Check all hoses and they are not clogged . When ski on the garden hose water it doesn't over heat only when I run it on the lake . What can it be!??? Pls help!!
 
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Thank you very very much for the reply I was starting to think I was talking to myself.


Those plugs look suspicious to me. they manage to be black and the porcelain is white...
I thought they looked a little weird as well

Going back to the fact that the ski essentially sank... is the ebox clean and dry? (where the spark plug wires come out of, up front)?
The front end thankfully did not go under because it was tied up in the front and the water was low. I did however check to make sure that it is dry.


is the TPS switch functioning? (I don't think this is the issue).
I've wondered this as well. How ca it be checked?

is the jet pump in good shape? plugs out, you can spin the shaft by hand? (KEY OFF, don't lose a finger).
I will check this but I don't think it is a problem.

so you have compression, which to me means the reeds are in ok shape. although you can remove the carbs and them to inspect if you like. (you do not remove the pipe to remove the carbs).
Still planning to check this today.

you said it filled w/smoke before? you've verified no exhaust leaks?
I still think there is a small exhaust leak in the muffler. I've ran the ski with the lids open and its exactly the same regardless. I would have it fixed but I'm not entirely sure how to get the muffler out. Does the tank have to come out on an XP? Which means the motor has to come out just to get the dang muffler out.

how are the plug wires? good shape? did you try the 1/4" snip?
I did trim them up 1/4"

these new carb kits... are they the correct sizes? I don't mess with rebuilding carbs... for $400 new. I just buy new and sell the old for $100.

make sure the jet's are the right sizes. I chased a low performing engine for TWO YEARS because of the god (*$% jet sizes. (It was running rich).
I assume they are the correct size. I did not change the jets I just cleaned them and it supposedly ran fine before it sank.

you should see 6800-7k WOT in the water.

what oil are you using?
I'm using the impossible to find at walmart quicksilver with the pink PWC on the front of it. I had to drive all over creation to find it.

how old is the fuel?
Fuel is brand new. Completely emptied tank and have ran it through about half of another tank and topped it off again.

new plugs? NGK BR8ES? MUST BE THESE PLUGS. they are cheap and work well.
Brand new NGK BR8ES I've been through like 3 sets making sure it wasn't the plugs causing all this.

have you removed and inspected the water regulator? (I don't think this is the issue, but doesn't hurt to look).
I have removed and replaced the old rusty metal clip with a zip tie and verified that the bellow wasn't leaking. I did this about a month ago and checked it again this weekend. Where should the red screw be set on this? I've tried it all over the place and it doesn't seem to change hardly anything.
 
Well I've never been so happy to see a broken part in my life. I found a broken reed valve during lunch today. Hopefully this will fix the problem.

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You could also try unplugging the voltage regulator

Also did you find the missing part of the reeds?
 
Need help with my 98 xp limited cooling system . Exhaust melting my hoses . Check all hoses and they are not clogged . When ski on the garden hose water it doesn't over heat only when I run it on the lake . What can it be!??? Pls help!!

Mike, so we can best help you, please start a NEW thread. This thread is for this persons 02. While it's a similar ski, it's hard to solve multiple issues across multiple skis in one thread.
Thanks.
 
Items

The TPS switch is along your throttle cable. It sits under the oil tank. Shows 5v below 80% throttle and 0v 81+

As for your oil... Is that the rating seadoo says? I run only XPS2. There are equivalents, but the 951 is very picky about its oil. The wrong stuff will have that engine shot in no time.

Ive never pulled the water box (muffler) from a XP. But I'm sure it's not fun.

I'd have to check the manual on the water regulator. I think it's 2 turns out from closed.

Let us know how you make out with new reeds.
 
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