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New to me 96 GTX

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MC87SS

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Hey everyone, been awhile since i have been here. Funny how life tends to get in the way of ski time.
Bought 2 - 95 GTX's a few years ago and had a blast on them. End of the season 2011 one of the motors went and all last year i kept saying i was going to rebuild / replace it but never got to it. I decided i was not going another year without hitting the water so i came across a 96 GTX with 8 hours on a rebuild. I know the 657X inside and out but the 787 is greek to me. Was hoping to get a few pointers of what to look for and keep an eye on besides the normal. I just got this home and have not had a chance to check it out to much but here is a couple pics.
Looks like the shaft cover is missing.
Reverser is gone but that really doesn't matter to me.
One question i am curious about, on my 95 the water hook-up is inside by the engine but this appears to have an external one with what looks like a quick disconnect on it coming out the back of the ski. Is this normal? Do i have to cap this before riding as it doesn't seam to have a way to close it?

Any help or opinions are greatly appreciated.

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It's a really nice ski, I love mine. No need to cap the flush outlet, I keep my quick connect on it all the time.

As usual replace the gray lines if any, add an in-line fuel filter, clean raves, clean carbs: esp the internal filters, change pump oil, change oil filter too.....and hose that nasty motor down...use a spray bottle with "Super Clean" and a high pressure hose nozzle, with a little scrubbing it should shine :)


What oil was the PO running. I use Amsoil Interceptor.
 
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Not meaning to pile on here but the rav valves at the motor look like they've never been off. Did you check the compression
Prior to buying it?
 
Yup theres no way it only has 8 hours unless it has sat 8 years.

I was thinking the same thing, didn't get it because of that so its not to big a deal. Most of the crud is only on the surface, i have not cleaned it up yet. It has obvious signs it was broke down and the carbs look pristine and it fires on the 1st hit of the button even after sitting 3 days. Some people don't take the time to do cosmetic things.
Pressure test revealed 154 & 155.
I guess only time will tell. 1st step is to clean the RAVE valves, that should give me an idea.
I need to change the pump oil on the 95 & 96 but have never done that before, i assume there is a write-up here on how to do it but have not looked yet.

As far as the flush hose goes will a std coupling from Lowe's work or is it a special fitting? With it open all the time doesn't that leave the system open to suck in air or let water escape that should be circulating thru the engine or exhaust?
 
Yup I hear ya, they must have done an inhouse job where the motor didnt get repainted like the reman places do. LOL and a shade tree at that seeing that rusty steel bolt holding the ex manifold on.

Cleaning is easy though. Make sure to do all the normal maintenance on it and Im sure she will give you plenty more fun. At the very least open up the carbs and make sure they are clean inside, the fuel lines replaced, oil inj lines replaced...etc. All should have been done when it broke down.

And if you happen to want to fix the reverse I got the parts. Looks like it needs the complete bucket assembly and a cable. Also check where the handle hooks to the part that goes through the hull. There are 3-4 plastic tangs that break off.
 
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while the carbs are on... i'd go ahead and clean the engine, and hull, its disgusting and must smell like azz.

then pull the raves, see how goo/bad they look. proceed from there.

I'm pretty sure on the flush fitting, just leave it alone, on my 97 xp it was just like that if I remember right.

(which for the record, i prefer, since I think the flush fitting inside the engine is a real pain in the azz spot to have it)

someone can confirm this... 100%... i'm 99.99%

maybe the carbs were rebult 8 hours ago...but not the engine, but when you pull the raves you'll have an idea... not that much carbon builds up in 8 hours..
 
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Well severe storms tonight prevented me from getting done.
I have done multiple searches and can't seem to find a how-to on changing the pump oil.
Can someone point me in the right direction?

After a whole year without getting on the water im getting impatient. LOL
 
Well severe storms tonight prevented me from getting done.
I have done multiple searches and can't seem to find a how-to on changing the pump oil.
Can someone point me in the right direction?

After a whole year without getting on the water im getting impatient. LOL

Pretty simple.
If your steering nozzle is off you'll see a cone with 3 bolts.
Remove them and let nasty black smelly oil drain.

Then refill with synthetic 75-90 wt gear oil.

First line of DrHonda's wear ring thread

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring
 
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Thanks for the link, looks easy enough. Can it be done while on the ski?

Forgot to post some pictures from when i picked it up. The bottom was scratched up pretty good, looks like it was beached on some rocks.
Used my car buffing tools & skills to make it look much better. Ran out of polishing glaze so its still a little cloudy but I'll fix that later.

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Getting it out of my truck onto the trailer, i'll tell you the story behind it being in the back of my truck instead of on the trailer tonight.

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Just a heads up, you might want to check the head pipe, there is 4 round circular plugs, 2 on the top side and 2 on the bottom. The bottom ones tend to corrode away. Just feel them and if you feel chipping on them you need to remove the pipe and have someone tig weld them. If you dont water will spray into the hull and you will also lose power.
 
Finally got a chance to clean it up a little.
Everything looked much worse the it was, a spray down with Purple Power and a rinse is all it took.
Still need to dive into it more but here is a couple quick pics.

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Needed new lights for the trailer so i decided on a set of submersible LEDs. These were much wider then the old lights so i had to fabricate something to mount them to. The goal was to also protect them, i found some 3" x 4" angle and started cutting & welding. This is what i came up with.

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Got a new cover for the car canopy and got it up so the skis have a home. While cutting the grass i noticed that all the toys were lined up so figured a picture was in order.

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I noticed something in you pictures. It looks like the original black injector lines, painted white are still there. While you have the carbs. off you need to replace the oil injector lines, use 3/32" tygon fuel line and small cable ties for clamps. With the carbs. off it's an easy job.

Lou
 
Honestly, I don't know, I've never done it without removing the carbs. On a 717 (the pump's under the carbs.) it's practically impossible without removing the carbs. It's probably easier on a 787. If I were doing it I would remove the carbs. I think you only need to remove the pulse line, and just lay the carbs. in the hull.

Maybe some one else will pick up on this and correct me if I'm wrong. You out there Doc., Nick ?

Lou
 
Is there any reason i can't just use automotive rubber fuel injection hose?
I was thinking about blocking off the injector anyway since it is on my 95, that way they can both use mix gas.
Thoughts? Opinions?
 
I don't think you can get rubber fuel line in 3/32", vacuum line yes, fuel line no. Besides the tygon is only about 1.50 per foot at ACE Hardware.

Lou
 
How much fuel do you want to premix at one time? Do you just fill with gas and try to add the right amount of 2 cycle oil? Seems like a PITA rather than spending a couple hours max changing the injection lines. Trust me, it's not as hard as you might be thinking and when you can gas and go instead of having to try and mix at the dock, you'll be glad you spent that extra little bit of time this winter. You'll love that ski!
 
Its not that i want to delete the injector rather then change the lines its that my other ski uses mix. If i go to the lake i will have to carry both mixed & regular gas.
 
I use premix on my 96 GSX. It was after I just blew an engine due to clogged filters. I wasn't comfortable with injection then as it was my first ski, but on my 97 XP restore now I will use injection. Either way, premix isn't really that hard, it just uses a little extra oil which really isn't terrible for these old skis to be well oiled. I do like the peace of mind of premix
 
eh,just my 14cents worth,but,i just put the oil injection system BACK on 2 0f my skis,just so i dont have to worry bout mixin,frikken hated that.
 
I would really doubt it, Kawasaki used premix for 10 years before injection. Shouldn't make a difference. My dads 85 js550 has never had the carb off and it runs perfect
 
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